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Jimmy Clarke
07-05-2006, 03:24 PM
Hi. Can someone provide some pointers on hindge adjustments (37' CE). I'm sure it's relatively simple, but I also feel there's an easier way than trial and error. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks , Jimmy http://community.webshots.com/user/Jimmy655

DEEPNHOCK
07-05-2006, 04:55 PM
Lookin' good there Jimmy! Your rust repair pieces look superb!
Unfortunately the only way I ever heard of was kind of trial and error. I have an old service manual and an old service tool book, and they show a set of blocks and pry bars to bend things around. Sounded real crude to me.
What I did to get mine reasonably close was to drill out and re-tap all the hinge mount screws and replace them with stainless countersunk Allen head screws. Then, when the lower hinge was installed with screws, I took the screws out of the upper hinge and closed the door. I shimmed the door to get the gap close (still closed and latched). Then slide the upper hinge out. Then you can bend the hinge halves until you can get the hinge to slide in and out real easy. Repeat for the bottom hinge.

The hinge leave 'gap' determines the front to rear movement of the door in the opening. Changing this gap can be done in a vice (or a press) with some drill bits to vary the thickness you need on the gap.

Changing the curve of the hinge half is what moves the door in and out in relation to the door opening. To move the top of the door 'in' you have to put more 'hook' on the hinge leave half.

Be sure to square up your cab before you mess around with the hinges. Your cab has lost most of it's structural intergrity with the door corners rotted off and the firewall cut out. The braces from the firewall to the radiator support also help keep the cab 'box' square.
I also noticed that the cab mounting tabs that go to the frame sides were 'insulated' with strips of rubber (old tires). It almost seems to me that this method of mounting really puts a lot of diagonal torque on the cab box when the frame twists. I'd be tempted to build in some more cab to frame flex with that nount...But that's just me..

What the best hinge adjust 'sequence' to follow is, I do not know. I just know I did one door at a time:D
Jeff[8D]

One of the Studebaker tools (J-1326) is a sophisticated tool to wedge into the door jamb and close the door with it in there.
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j54/deepnhock/Jeff%20Rice%20Studebaker%20Pictures/60dec4b7.jpg

Another precision tool is the door adjuster tool (B-212) that allows the tecnician a way to bend the crap out of the door;)
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j54/deepnhock/Jeff%20Rice%20Studebaker%20Pictures/B-212.jpg






quote:Originally posted by Jimmy Clarke

Hi. Can someone provide some pointers on hindge adjustments (37' CE). I'm sure it's relatively simple, but I also feel there's an easier way than trial and error. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks , Jimmy http://community.webshots.com/user/Jimmy655


DEEPNHOCK at Cox.net
Ocala, FL.
'37 Coupe Express
'37 Coupe Express Trailer
'61 Hawk
http://community.webshots.com/photo/42559113/426827941Lsvfrz
http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock

rockne10
07-05-2006, 08:12 PM
In my friend's shop a lot of minor adjustments are made with a strategically placed 2x4 and some heavy body action. While the factory may have used special tools they were basically doing the same thing.

And, if you've ever watched a frame shop put a badly contorted vehicle back into proper configuration, they need to push it way beyond proper configuration to get it settled back where it belongs. A good frame man can make you cringe.[:0]

Jimmy Clarke
07-06-2006, 12:45 AM
Thanks guys. The info really helps a lot. Jeff the only thing you said, that I'm not quite understanding is the part concerning the "hindge leave gap"? Sometimes I'll spend a straight 10-12 hours in the shop, and it almost seems like I haven't accomplished anything...but it's progressing, slowly but surely. I'm getting a lot of Mig practice anyway! Thanks again, Jimmy

DEEPNHOCK
07-06-2006, 10:28 AM
Maybe this will make things clear as mud;)
Here's a quick and dirty pic...
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j54/deepnhock/Jeff%20Rice%20Studebaker%20Pictures/DoorHingeAdjustment.jpg




quote:Originally posted by Jimmy Clarke

Thanks guys. The info really helps a lot. Jeff the only thing you said, that I'm not quite understanding is the part concerning the "hindge leave gap"? Sometimes I'll spend a straight 10-12 hours in the shop, and it almost seems like I haven't accomplished anything...but it's progressing, slowly but surely. I'm getting a lot of Mig practice anyway! Thanks again, Jimmy

Jimmy Clarke
07-06-2006, 11:58 AM
Jeff,
Got it! Thanks a million, Jimmy