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Mike Sal
06-25-2006, 10:44 PM
I'm getting ready to lift out a V8 / automatic from a 60 lark I'm parting out. Where's the balance point to bolt the lift chain to? (rear intake manifold bolts?)? Most of the car is out of the way, front clip, fire wall, etc (those air chisels are wonderful tools).

This engine has AC & power steering too.
thanks,
Mike Sal

whacker
06-26-2006, 12:20 AM
When pulling the engine and transmission together as a unit, I use the first exhaust manifold bolt on the driver's side and the last exhaust manifold bolt on the passenger side. I usually use two chains, with the second chain fastened the same way, but opposite hand. I have used the four outside intake manifold bolts when I pull the engine without the transmission. I usually like to remove the accessory items like the power steering pump and the generator before I start, as I don't want to smash them into something. If you have the oil filler stand on the front, take that off too. If I haven't removed the front clip, I also like to remove the water manifold for front clearance, but it sounds like that won't be a problem for you! Be sure you disconnect the temperature sensor wire at the back of the driver's side head.

JDP
06-26-2006, 12:37 AM
I use the front middle intake bolt on one side, and the rear middle on the other. It'll come out way nose high, and you'll need a buddy to level out the rear of the trans to clear the front sheet metal.
On reinstalling a buddy with a jack under the tailshaft will be needed for the final push back. I just did a R&R like that this week.

Studebaker On The Net http://stude.com
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64 Daytona HT
64 Daytona Convert.
64 R2 4 speed Challenger
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
63 R1 GT Hawk
63 Avanti R1/AC
63 Avanti R2/4 speed
62 Daytona HT
62 Lark 2 door
60 Hawk

Mike Sal
06-26-2006, 07:49 AM
Thanks for the advise. I'm trying to raise the unit as level as possible (a little nose up atitude is ok). I don't have any sheet metal in the way (as mentioned, most of the floor board was rusted away & I removed the center part of the transmission hump & firewall with an air chisel).

To look at it, it seems that the chains will contact the valve covers if I use the exhaust manifold bolts. That's why I was curious on how good the balance would be using the 2 rear intake bolts instead. I can always remove the valve covers if the exhaust is really the way to go.
Mike Sal

55Commander
06-26-2006, 04:08 PM
I picked up an engine leveler from speedway a couple years ago.
Best $35 I ever spent. I put a socket on my air ratchet and
adjustments are a piece of cake.
TZ

If you don't plan on using it alot, split the cost with your buddies.
I'm telling you it's really worth it. :D

rockne10
06-26-2006, 08:03 PM
This is the one I've used. It just makes it too easy.
http://www.autobarn.net/all647525.html

Mike Sal
06-26-2006, 10:47 PM
Ok, the motor is out & the results are: On a stock 259 w/ AC and power steering and automatic still attached, using the 2nd from the end intake bolts will let it raise with a slight nose up position (using a plain old chain & the cherry picker). The rear intake bolt locations let the motor tip nose down too much.

I had tried to cheat & bring most of the exhaust pipe out still attached, but it binds with the A pillar cross member, so I cut it off just behind the Y pipe.

Now just have to torch the rest of it up & sort it away (the rear end & front brakes are going into a 53 coupe).

Mike Sal

JDP
06-27-2006, 12:31 AM
I have one of those levelers and it made it impossible to pull a Avanti drive line in one piece. With the four point hook up, I could not swing the engine up or down enough as I was moving the crane forward or back. I'll use it when I don't have a front clip to deal with.

Studebaker On The Net http://stude.com
Studebaker News Group
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.studebaker
64 Daytona HT
64 Daytona Convert.
64 R2 4 speed Challenger
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
63 R1 GT Hawk
63 Avanti R1/AC
63 Avanti R2/4 speed
62 Daytona HT
62 Lark 2 door
60 Hawk