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fh929
06-22-2006, 10:07 AM
Well I friend came over to look at the 37 that would not start. he checked a few things, asked for a nail file !! he filed the new points. IT RUNS !!:D this is the 3rd set of points that would not work. Thanks to all on here that tried to help. I learned a lot. If it not been for this forum I think I would have sold it. I took me 32 years to get it done. I was ready to give up.

Thanke to all. I will try to post some pictures of it

DEEPNHOCK
06-22-2006, 11:50 AM
Ignition points are wonderous things..
They need alignment.
They need pampering.
They like being roughed up (but only with metal)
They like to be shocked a little, and shocked more (when they first wake up)..
They need constant adjustment....sometimes twice a decade[:0]
They detest bath's.
They hate lotions.
They can get cavities, and plaque buildup, all at the same time..
And they are just a path to ground...
(or earth, to you StudeBrits;))

Biggest rule about points is to only use a points file. Sandpaper is a no-no, because silica dioxide grit is an insulator.
Jeff[8D]


quote:Originally posted by fh929

Well I friend came over to look at the 37 that would not start. he checked a few things, asked for a nail file !! he filed the new points. IT RUNS !!:D this is the 3rd set of points that would not work. Thanks to all on here that tried to help. I learned a lot. If it not been for this forum I think I would have sold it. I took me 32 years to get it done. I was ready to give up.

Thanke to all. I will try to post some pictures of it

bams50
06-22-2006, 03:54 PM
Right, Jeff... but I have got them going before by dragging a matchbook cover through the points, and using same to set the gap...;)

Robert K. Andrews Owner- IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2358680/1

gordr
06-22-2006, 09:11 PM
quote:Originally posted by DEEPNHOCK


Ignition points are wonderous things..
They need alignment.
They need pampering.
They like being roughed up (but only with metal)
They like to be shocked a little, and shocked more (when they first wake up)..
They need constant adjustment....sometimes twice a decade[:0]
They detest bath's.
They hate lotions.
They can get cavities, and plaque buildup, all at the same time..
And they are just a path to ground...
(or earth, to you StudeBrits;))

Biggest rule about points is to only use a points file. Sandpaper is a no-no, because silica dioxide grit is an insulator.
Jeff[8D]


quote:Originally posted by fh929

Well I friend came over to look at the 37 that would not start. he checked a few things, asked for a nail file !! he filed the new points. IT RUNS !!:D this is the 3rd set of points that would not work. Thanks to all on here that tried to help. I learned a lot. If it not been for this forum I think I would have sold it. I took me 32 years to get it done. I was ready to give up.

Thanke to all. I will try to post some pictures of it



Jeff, I've used sandpaper for years on ignition points, but usually silicon carbide paper (the black stuff). Silicon dioxide is quartz, i.e. actual sand, and it is only used on the absolute cheapest grade of "flint" sandpaper, the kind you'd use to remove badly-checked paint from house trim.

Just about ANY abrasive grain is an insulator, though. So is oil and/or wax, and new points sets often have a coating of one or the other to protect them from oxidation while in storage. The drill is to clean them with either a points file or abrasive paper, THEN run a clean piece of business card through them to clear away any remaining wax or grit.

That has stood me in good stead for years.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

hank63
06-24-2006, 10:08 AM
For years I've cleaned my new points with a clean rag soaked in petrol. Manually open the points, insert rag, pull out slowly. WAIT, and WAIT, the reassemble and start the car.
Has always worked OK.
/H