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dclewallen
06-18-2006, 07:44 PM
On my 53 Starliner, to replace the headliner [I ask because the windsheild and back glass are about to be pulled] is it nessessary to remove any or both front and rear glasses to install a headliner?I know this topic has been covered before but I've also heard differing opinions on this. Thanks,

Darryl C. Lewallen

StudeRich
06-18-2006, 07:56 PM
It is possible to "tuck" the headliner in under the front and rear glass seals:)...BUT it will never look as good[xx(] or last as long as doing it right! [^]:) Also be sure you replace the windlace with the headliner, as replacing it later will destroy your new headliner! Rich.


quote:Originally posted by dclewallen

On my 53 Starliner, to replace the headliner [I ask because the windsheild and back glass are about to be pulled] is it nessessary to remove any or both front and rear glasses to install a headliner?I know this topic has been covered before but I've also heard differing opinions on this. Thanks,

Darryl C. Lewallen


StudeRich
Ferndale, WA

stude53
06-19-2006, 10:29 AM
Hey, StudeRich,

While researching the same topic I came across a great website with lots of tech data including headliner installation. This may be helpful to you and others that may not know about it.

http://www.ncsdc.com/TechIndex.htm

Thanks to Studeman at Ray-Lin's Restorations.

dclewallen
06-19-2006, 04:19 PM
Which part of the trim are you refering to as "windlace"? Thanks,

Darryl C. Lewallen

Roscomacaw
06-19-2006, 07:08 PM
Windlace is that big, fabric-covered, foam-cored thing around the edge of the door opening. The door closes against it and it serves to stop any drafts (hence: wind lace) occur around the door.[^]

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

Jeff_H
06-19-2006, 07:20 PM
On the '53 starliner, the headliner does not wrap under the window gaskets like on some other studebakers. There is a fibre tacking strip that runs around the front and rear window under the garnish mouldings.

I had my windows in the car before the headliner went in. I DID install the tacking strip first. There is a company, "restoration specialty"?? that sells a plastic replacement strip for the likely rotted fibre one. Its 5/8" wide and about 3/16" thick. I used small screws to put that in rather than the special nails that studebaker used. Much easier to drill for the screws with the glass out of the way. The rear bow on the starliner (hardtop) catches in 2 hooks. You staple the headliner to the tacking strip with short staples then pull it forward to catch those hooks. You need to staple it right so it will be tight when it catches the hooks. Then pull hard forward with all the bows in place and staple to the front tacking strip over the windshield. You may need to apply some spray adhesive to the flat metal panel/brace above the windshield too. The sides then use the claw strips to tuck it tight. I'd never done a headliner before and it came out pretty good. The hardest part is getting it tight around the upper rear corner of the rear quarter windows. You can use a hairdryer to shrink it a little to get any wrinkles out. Its also recommended to lay the new one out flat somewhere for a while if its been folded up in a box to get the bends to flatten out.

Jeff in ND

'53 Champion Hardtop

rockne10
06-19-2006, 09:01 PM
There is also a special tool for tucking into the toothed cleats. It's like a heavy putty knife with a bend in it and a dull business end with rounded corners.

When I installed mine I called upon my experience stretching silk screen frames and canvas for paintings. Secure rear bow and tack about six inches at top of rear window. Pull all bows forward and tack about the same above front. Then stretch out to both sides and tack the same, centered on left and on right. Keep working a little front and back, left and right until you're finishing all four corners.

Before you begin this whole process, consider scraping, sanding and painting the exposed roof. Then glue a sound insulation mat to the roof. I buy a foil-backed roll from J.C.Whitless and it has worked well. Also sand and paint the bows. If they have the least surface rust from the humidity that has trapped itself in the roof over the years, it will act like sandpaper on the loops and additional humidity will eventually send rust stains into your beautiful new headliner.

bams50
06-19-2006, 10:28 PM
YIKES [:0]

I'm pretty handy in general, but I'm intimidated about tackling this job... especially in my wagon........[xx(]

Robert K. Andrews Owner- IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2358680/1