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Walt Zander
06-12-2006, 08:31 AM
Method of replacement of the whiskers / both inside and outside of the door glass appears to this geezer to be more troublesome than expected.
Stapling method used at the factory is obviously not a procedure available to this novice. Question is .. Considering the pop rivet method - is there a manner in which this can be accomplished without mashing the whiskers? Or is there another way to replace them?
Thanks for any advice or direction.

Walt

'49 Starlight Coupe
1936 Miller Replica/ Stude driveline

ROADRACELARK
06-12-2006, 10:13 AM
The pop-rivit method is acceptable, just use the 1/8 size, the small head will sink down to the bottom of the "fuzzy stuff". A "Sharpie" marker will color the rivet head and make it almost invisible. BTDT:)
Dan

Scott
06-12-2006, 10:43 AM
That's funny this would come up. I was looking at the same problem a few days ago. Someone else also suggested pop rivets.

I've also been wondering about how people install a new baffle over the radiator support in hawks. They used heavy staples originally. I've pulled some out, but I can't see reusing them. Any ideas?

I've had a replacement for at least two years, and it's still waiting to go in the car!

ROADRACELARK
06-12-2006, 12:08 PM
Scott,
I"ve had a couple of customers that have purchased those lately, they said theirs came with new staples....sorry I don't know who the vendor was, but I'll bet someone else who sees this can answer.:) I would feel certain that vendor might sell you those staples separately if you beg a grovle enough.;)
Dan

Scott
06-12-2006, 12:20 PM
Wait! You're right! I got new staples. But, now that I think of it, what stopped me were these questions:

1. How can you possibly drive the staples through unpierced areas of the radiator support? Does it take a $100 staple machine that I will use once? Trying to use the old staple holes means taking out the old staples. I've taken a few out and they are a son of a ******. There are lots of them, too.

2. If I try to put the staples through the original staple holes, how do you flatten he staples correctly (i.e. thoroughly)? It seems it would take some sort of clamp.

ROADRACELARK
06-12-2006, 12:52 PM
Scott,
Never having installed one myself, personally, I would think a heavy set of diagonal wire cutters, a pair of Vise-Grip pliers and mabe a small screw driver and a lot of patience [}:)]. First I'd remmove that bar it is stapled to and go to a comfortable place to work. A bench vise would then be adviseable. Mark the location of the old rubber if it is still in place. Carefully straighten out the old staples then pull them out. Position the new rubber where the old one came from, and securily clamp it in place using several clamps along the full length. Use a straight pin, a large sewing needle may fit through the hole in the metal bar, and carefully mark the new rubber, at the same time piercing a hole in the rubber for the new staple to go through. As you can see, this will take time.[:X] Make sure the rubber doesn't slip out of position under the clamps. You might be able to bend the staples over with a large pair of slip-joint pliers, (Channel-Lock), otherwise, use a hammer and make sure you "back-up" the back side of the staple with something heavy. Hope this helps...
[8D]
Dan

Scott
06-12-2006, 02:14 PM
Thanks Dan,

I have no doubt your method will work. The hardest part is being patient with something that's simple in theory but tedious in the extreme. If I finish the job I'll definitely deserve a treat. You'd think after 2 years I would've done it, but those staples did me in.

Walt Zander
06-12-2006, 02:46 PM
Thanks Dan.
I appreciate the info. This ole coot will give it a try.
As to removing the staples I had no problem, using a 1/8" shank
electric grinder with same size width grinding wheel. While tedious
the removal was completed without damage to the parent metal.
Cool tip on the coloring..Thanks again. SDC guys are the greatest!

'49 Starlight Coupe
1936 Miller Replica/ Stude driveline

chevpartsman
06-12-2006, 03:43 PM
quote:Originally posted by ROADRACELARK

Scott,
Never having installed one myself, personally, I would think a heavy set of diagonal wire cutters, a pair of Vise-Grip pliers and mabe a small screw driver and a lot of patience [}:)]. First I'd remmove that bar it is stapled to and go to a comfortable place to work. A bench vise would then be adviseable. Mark the location of the old rubber if it is still in place. Carefully straighten out the old staples then pull them out. Position the new rubber where the old one came from, and securily clamp it in place using several clamps along the full length. Use a straight pin, a large sewing needle may fit through the hole in the metal bar, and carefully mark the new rubber, at the same time piercing a hole in the rubber for the new staple to go through. As you can see, this will take time.[:X] Make sure the rubber doesn't slip out of position under the clamps. You might be able to bend the staples over with a large pair of slip-joint pliers, (Channel-Lock), otherwise, use a hammer and make sure you "back-up" the back side of the staple with something heavy. Hope this helps...
[8D]
Dan
.......I installed one I bought from SI almost exactly this way....in the original staple holes. It does work !

1961 HAWK..BLACK.. 4bc,4-speed,TT

Roscomacaw
06-12-2006, 04:00 PM
I'm doing cat whiskers right now for this wagon. Those original clips are easy. Mark where they go. then lay the whisker piece on a block of wood On the end grain ideally.
Then holding the clip with your hand, use a small hammer to drive the teeth of the clip thru the metal backing of the whisker strip. First one tooth, then the other.
Now, flip it over, support the end of the clip on the edge of the wood block and hammer the protruding tooth inward, so that it clasps like a staple would. Do the other side and progress to the next clip.;)

Again, with those baffle staples, if the new staples fit the old holes - lay the baffle piece on the end grain of a block of wood, place the metal strip on top, where it's supposed to be and then using a small ballpeen hammer, tap the staples all the way thru - flip it over and whack down the staple ends. Then go onto the next one.:D

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

ROADRACELARK
06-12-2006, 04:18 PM
Walt,
My instructions for the cat whiskers was for the ones on the door panel side, (inside the window). Mr. Biggs is correct on the whisker for the door side, (outside the window). :( Sorry for not making that clear.
Dan

Scott
06-12-2006, 04:56 PM
While we're on this topic has anyone noticed that on 1966 cars the cat whiskers on the door are in 4 or 5 pieces 1 inch long and spaced out? Talk about frugal. My 1964 Daytona 4 door has one long strip on the door and on the door panel. The 1966 cars weren't done the same way, apparently. They only used continuous strips on the door panels.

jimmijim8
06-13-2006, 11:52 AM
I've never seen one as such. jimmijim

Scott
06-13-2006, 12:17 PM
I'll try to post a picture later. It's the same on all the windows. Actually, it looks like Studebaker used the regular cat whisker backing with the stainless bead, but without the fuzzy stuff. Then, they attached the strip to the doors using 4 or 5 clips that have about 1 inch of rubber-like material which comes in contact with the windows. Maybe they were fuzzy to begin with, but I am beginning to doubt it.

It's real hard to believe they could have saved any money doing it that way, but I can't see any other reason why they would have.

Tom B
06-13-2006, 02:48 PM
As to crimping the cat's whisker clips, I used a narrow grinding wheel and a rat tail file to modify one side of a cheap pair of slip joint pliers. I had to go in about 5/16 inch to get it to work, but it beats a hammer and a loose block of wood.

Tom Bredehoft
'53 Commander Coupe
'60 Lark VI
'05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
All Indiana built cars

ROADRACELARK
06-13-2006, 03:00 PM
As they say, Tom B, necessity is the mother of invention.;)
Good job!:)
Dan

Scott
06-13-2006, 03:43 PM
Tom B, does that mean that a pop rivet tool would have a problem getting in there, too?

JDP
06-13-2006, 06:34 PM
The rubber on the shroud is easy. Just use a small drill to drill out the old staple holes after you've glued the rubber in place with weather strip cement, then thread the staples in the holes and fold over.

Studebaker On The Net http://stude.com
Studebaker News Group
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.studebaker
64 Daytona HT
64 R2 4 speed Challenger
63 R2 4 speed GT Black
63 R2 4 speed GT White
63 GT Hawk
63 Avanti
62 Daytona HT
53 Coupe

CHAMP
06-13-2006, 07:04 PM
I just replaced the cat whiskers on my 48 Champion. I used new clips on the outside and on the inside I used Mech. wire. Just punched two small holes where staples would go on cat whikskers with a schatch all and put wire in holes and twisted tight with pliars worked great! Champ:)

Scott
06-13-2006, 08:47 PM
This is how they did it in 1966. Weird, huh?
http://static.flickr.com/50/166782164_8e715c8c01.jpg?v=0

Tom B
06-14-2006, 10:15 PM
Scott, you take the window out, (you probably already have.) Using a flat screwdriver, start at one end and pop each of the holding studs out. After you fish the cat's whisker strip out of the bottom of the door, they you can pop rivit new velvet on it, or simply replace the whole thing with a new one.

Tom Bredehoft
'53 Commander Coupe
'60 Lark VI
'05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
All Indiana built cars

Walt Zander
06-15-2006, 07:54 AM
Champ
What type or style clip did you use on the outside whisker of your 48?
This seems functional since one would not need to drop the glass to
install pop rivets, in the center portion which is hindered by the window. How was the look appearance wise?
Thanks for your viewpoint.
Walt


'49 Starlight Coupe
1936 Miller Replica/ Stude driveline

garyash
06-15-2006, 10:29 AM
If you want to have the whiskers put in with what looks like staples, use some heavy galvanized steel or stainless steel wire. Flip the cat whisker over and place against the door, then mark the back side of the cat whisker where the staple holes in the door are, then drill the cat whisker. Or, just drill new holes through cat whisker and door. Cut pieces of wire about 3-4 inches long, bend (not crimp)in half and poke the ends through the cat whisker and door. Pull the ends up tight with pliers, then twist just until tight. Fold ends of wires to side to avoid scratching windows.

Gary Ash
Dartmouth, MA
'48 M5
'65 Wagonaire Commander
'63 Wagonaire Standard
www.studegarage.com

CHAMP
06-15-2006, 02:25 PM
Walt, the clip I used I ordered with the cat whiskers from Stephen Allen. Your right you don't have to drop the window but it is a tight fit and does require caution! Champ:)

Roscomacaw
06-15-2006, 03:53 PM
Scott, my 66 Wagonaire didn't have little bits of whisker like that.[:I]

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

Walt Zander
06-15-2006, 04:16 PM
THANKS TO ALL
I am now loaded with info and enthusiasm. :D


Walt

'49 Starlight Coupe
1936 Miller Replica/ Stude driveline