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56champion
06-08-2006, 05:40 AM
I am having trouble with the overdrive. It freewheels as it should but when u get back in the gas it`s still the same, no change I`ve checked the wiring as shown in the manual. I ran a hot wire with a toggle switch to the silenoid. It clicks but still nothing happens. Is it possible for the silenoid to make a noise and still be bad? Thought about replacing it but can`t find one. any help or ideas on where to find one would be a help thanks

tomnoller
06-08-2006, 07:49 AM
Before you replace the solenoid (they're pretty stout) you might wiggle and inspect all the wiring as they do sometimes over the years get insulation rubbed off, so one might be grounding. Or one might be loose. I had a problem like this and took the relay off the firewall, gently removed the 'can' and cleaned the contacts with 1500 grit paper and that worked. Also sometimes the governor can foul if oil gets in and you can, under the car, take the top off and wipe things off in there. Hope this helps!

Roscomacaw
06-08-2006, 11:24 AM
Running a wire to the solenoid wouldn't be right (in the traditional sense) if your '56 still has all it's components (solenoid AND relay). Of course, maybe you've chosen to run POWER to the solenoid as a means of control INSTEAD OF providing the power relay with a ground as the governor would do.
If you've done it like that (provided power directly to the solenoid), you're not gonna have a "kickdown" function even if you do manage to make the solenoid pull in.[B)]

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

gordr
06-08-2006, 01:13 PM
quote:Originally posted by 56champion

I am having trouble with the overdrive. It freewheels as it should but when u get back in the gas it`s still the same, no change I`ve checked the wiring as shown in the manual. I ran a hot wire with a toggle switch to the silenoid. It clicks but still nothing happens. Is it possible for the silenoid to make a noise and still be bad? Thought about replacing it but can`t find one. any help or ideas on where to find one would be a help thanks


Have a very close look at the manual lockout cable, and the lever on the OD case to which it connects. That lever has to be ALL THE WAY BACK AGAINST THE STOP when the OD cable is pushed in. If it is not all the way back, you can get a condition where the free-wheeling clutch is operative, but the pawl, which is what the solenoid moves, is still inhibited by the OD shift rail. The solenoid will still click as it tries to move the pawl, but the pawl will only move a tiny fraction of its normal travel.

I like to set the lockout cable such that the handle is about 1/8" short of being bottomed out at the dash end when the OD shift lever is all the way back to the stop. That ensures that you can always get the lever into the "full on" position when you select OD by pushing in on the handle.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

rockne10
06-08-2006, 07:11 PM
Was the overdrive fused in 56 or was that only the later models. I know when my 63 would free-wheel and not engage it was usually the fuse.

Roscomacaw
06-08-2006, 07:42 PM
The 56s (57s too) had a fuse on the OD relay. 63s wouldn't have a relay, but it did have an inline fuse.

I just RE-read 56's post and he states he ran a "hot wire", which I guess would mean 12volts - and not a ground. Maybe, as Grodr says, it's a case of the cable not being ALL the way back. Be nice if it was that easy.

56, that fuse holder's a prime suspect (assuming this still has it's relay with a fuse on the front). Those little fingers that the fuse clips into get oxidized and even tho they grip the fuse tight, current don't flow thru. Try taking the fuse out and cleaning the insides of the fuse fingers if you get the thing to drop in with your hot wire. ;) That way you'd have your kickdown function back.

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

56champion
06-08-2006, 08:33 PM
Thanks for the info so far. I pretty sure the govoner is bad because when I ground the wire running to it the solenoid clicks. This would indicate a good circuit, correct? I have replaced the relay and throttle swith because of some broken terminals. I ran a hotwire or 12 volts to the solenoid just as a check and when it still did not engage, it lead me to believe something else as well as the govoner was bad. The lockout cable is not pushing the lever completely against the stop, maybe a 8th of an inch short of it. When u work the lever on the trans. by hand it is very loose no resistance at all once its moved from conventional gear position, is this normal? I intend to adjust the cable to see if that does anything. Any other ideas would be a help

Roscomacaw
06-08-2006, 10:28 PM
It does sould like maybe the governor's bad. And you've proven that going around the relay doesn't help. I'd wire it up using your toggle switch to provide a ground to that wire that normally would go to the governor. That way you have the kickdown circuit in operation again AND you have the protection of the fuse in place again.
But remember - actuating this system manually dispenses with the safety of preventing the OD from being engaged when you shift to reverse! You only need to try and back up ONCE with the OD engaged and you've made a mess of the OD unit![xx(]

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

gordr
06-09-2006, 08:44 AM
quote:Originally posted by 56champion

Thanks for the info so far. I pretty sure the govoner is bad because when I ground the wire running to it the solenoid clicks. This would indicate a good circuit, correct? I have replaced the relay and throttle swith because of some broken terminals. I ran a hotwire or 12 volts to the solenoid just as a check and when it still did not engage, it lead me to believe something else as well as the govoner was bad. The lockout cable is not pushing the lever completely against the stop, maybe a 8th of an inch short of it.

>>That could be enough to cause you trouble. Ask me how I know:D


When u work the lever on the trans. by hand it is very loose no resistance at all once its moved from conventional gear position, is this normal?

>>If the tranny is in Reverse when you try this, that's exactly what happens, as the OD shift rail has already been pushed back by the internal linkage in the tranny, so that the external lockout lever actually does nothing.


I intend to adjust the cable to see if that does anything. Any other ideas would be a help


>>I'd start there. If that fails to help, try removing the solenoid, and insert a small screwdriver into the slot in the pawl where the solenoid stem engages, (twist it so it grips the sides of the slot)and see if you can manually work the pawl in and out. It should have about 1/2" of travel.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

whacker
06-09-2006, 09:07 PM
If your overdrive relay really is bad, you might try this:

https://www.studebakerparts.com/studebakerparts/parts/html/pages/relay.html

Take a good look at the wiring diagram in the manual and be sure you have it wired correctly. It is easy to do it wrong!

56champion
06-10-2006, 05:00 AM
Hey Gord, I adjusted the cable. that was the problem, everything works now even the govoner. I figured it would be something simple, not that simple but anyway thanks..

Roscomacaw
06-10-2006, 12:57 PM
COOL DEAL! The forum to the rescue once again![:0]:D

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

gordr
06-12-2006, 03:07 AM
quote:Originally posted by 56champion

Hey Gord, I adjusted the cable. that was the problem, everything works now even the govoner. I figured it would be something simple, not that simple but anyway thanks..


Glad to be of help.:D

That cable adjustment can be a real "gotcha". I know it got me! It's so darn basic, it's easy to overlook it, especially if you haven't been warned of just how critical that adjustment is.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

PalmerGA
06-12-2006, 02:47 PM
Another great job by the SDC Forumers!
So how about this.....

My OD operates fine (knock,knock,knock) while engaged. My problem is I cannot DISengage it. I really don't have a reason to disengage it, but since it is supposed to I'd like it to work.

Bob Palma got me squared away a few years ago on how to engage the OD, but I don't know how to disengage. There has to be more to it than just pulling out the lever. Mine won't budge.

Any help????? Thanks.

Jim's pride....
1963 Daytona Convertible

Roscomacaw
06-12-2006, 03:41 PM
"but I don't know how to disengage. There has to be more to it than just pulling out the lever. Mine won't budge."

Are you saying you CAN'T pull the OD handle out OR you CAN but it's still in OD???

It DOES disengage below 30MPH or so, right? [}:)]


Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

PalmerGA
06-13-2006, 03:49 PM
quote:Originally posted by Mr.BiggsAre you saying you CAN'T pull the OD handle out OR you CAN but it's still in OD???I cannot pull the OD handle out. It won't budge.


quote:It DOES disengage below 30MPH or so, right?Yes. From a driving standpoint, the OD works fine. I just cannot disengage it.

Jim's pride....
1963 Daytona Convertible