Quick solder question

[Eman]

I just got the pigtails for my taillights and need to attach the little copper (or brass?) contacts to the end of the wire in the socket. Is there a certain type of solder I should or shouldn't use? Rosin vs acid?

Thanks.




1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")

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[Roscomacaw]

Use rosin core. Acid core will work against electrical applications over time! Use some good flux too.

Soldering isn't as easy as it looks (done right anyway). I was NASA spec certified for soldering, back in my aircraft electrician days. Anyone can do a passable job of soldering with a little practice. The biggest mistake made is cold soldering. If the solder has a "rough" look to it once it cools, it's not a good joint. It must have a shiny appearance to it once it cools.
Get the pieces to be soldered thoroughly up to temp, apply just enough solder to make a good bond and then be EXTRA careful NOT to move the joint until it sets. Moving the joint before it sets up is the PRIMARY cause of cold solder joints.

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

[Mike]

Use rosin core solder with wire. Acid core and flux are for metal and plumbing. Acid will corrode the wire.
I use small diameter rosin core from Radio Shack, .032 60/40, #64-009. Their 40W pencil iron is great for the price, and has replacable tips, #64-2071. A stand and an assortment of tips for the iron are a good idea.
Mike M.

[Eman]

Thanks again guys!



1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")

https://www.bulletshots.net

https://www.bulletshots.net/blog

https://www.alabamastudes.com

[curt]

High tin content,lower lead content in the solder,is excellent. Also, a mechanical lock is most desirable, then the solder holds the joint and the solder is not the total joint. Make sure all contacts are bright shiney metal , then flux heavy and heat as discussed above.

[Jeff_H]

If you find some and have a choice, get some 63/37 "eutectic" solder. Unlike the 60/40, it does not have a "soft" state, its either liquid or solid. A lot less likely you will get a cold solder joint trying to hold things still with shaky hands waiting for it to cool

Jeff in ND

'53 Champion Hardtop