View Full Version : New clutch- what parts to replace?

03-21-2007, 10:10 AM
Well, if I'm going to drive my 60 Hawk, 289, 3-spd OD to South Bend, I'd better get cracking on having a new clutch installed.

The problem: Every so often the clutch will freeze... sometimes after sitting for a long time...sometimes after its warmed up and I stop at a light or store.

I suspect a pesky rear main seal is dumping oil back onto the clutch (when it's not marking the garage floor) and causing the disc to "glue" itself to the flywheel at the most aggravating times. Usually a few quick hits from the starter will free it up and off I go. Of course, it really does need to be fixed correctly.

I am going to have a local shop do the work as I cannot work with my arms over my head for very long (don't ask). So...I will order parts from one of our Stude vendors today. Please review my list below and tell me if I should be replacing any other parts as long as I am doing this.

-10" clutch disc and pressure plate assy
-release bearing
-pilot bearing
-front/rear seals and pan gasket

I'll have them get the flywheel resurfaced.

I plan to provide the parts (along with my shop manual) to the repair shop. They do have experience with old iron but not Studes in particular (especially with a hill holder that'll need adjustment afterward).

As long as it's up on a hoist I'll probably have them repack/replace the wheel bearings. A coolant flush/fill, oil change, lube, etc. will also be done.

What else will I need to order for the clutch or have done/checked for my first long road trip?

60 Hawk. 49 2R5, 39 Champion
Woodbury, Minnesota

03-21-2007, 11:21 AM

I have had problems with clutch discs becoming frozen before, but mostly with tractors and trucks that were not stored in a building with a controlled environment. The changes in temperature and humidity tend to cause those types of issues.

However, I have not encountered the problem that you speak of while sitting at a light. It doesn't sound like something has "frozen" but has gotten into a bind. Also, my experience is that oil on a clutch will cause it to slip rather than "freeze".

I think you have identified the parts that need replacing and you do need to clean the surface of the flywheel. Be sure to have them check to be sure the ring gear is up to specs. I would also make sure that the fork is not bent and causing some of your trouble.

Good luck!


Guido Salvage - "Where rust is beautiful"

Studebaker horse drawn buggy; 1946 M-16 fire truck; 1948 M-16 grain truck; 1949 2R16A grain truck; 1949 2R17A fire truck; 1950 2R5 pickup; 1952 2R17A grain truck; 1952 Packard 200 4 door; 1955 E-38 grain truck; 1957 3E-40 flatbed; 1961 6E-28 grain truck; 1962 7E-13D 4x4 rack truck; 1962 7E-7 Champ pickup; 1962 GT Hawk 4 speed; 1963 8E-28 flatbed; 1964 Avanti R2 4 speed; 1964 Cruiser and various other "treasures".

Hiding and preserving Studebakers in Richmond, Goochland & Louisa, Va.

John Kirchhoff
03-21-2007, 11:34 AM
I'm with Guido on this one. Usually oily clutches slip and engagement feels much like an automatic transmission, let her outand eventually it gets to moving. When you say "freeze", do you mean it won't engage or it won't disengage?

1956 Hawk
03-21-2007, 12:01 PM
If you are taking the oil pan off you will also need the timing cover gasket. By the way, not to knock the Studebaker vendors, but most if not all of the parts you need are available from your local auto parts store.


Dick Steinkamp
03-21-2007, 12:19 PM
Looking forward to seeing that Hawk at South Bend [:p]

On the lube, a common mistake is to put not enough grease in the king pin fittings. Make sure they pump until it comes out the TOP bushing. This will create a huge mess around the LOWER bushing, but that can be cleaned up.

The crank seals are not exactly an easy job with the engine in the car. They are also a little tricky...even with the aid of the shop manual. It would be great if you could find a mechanic that has done some Stude V8's SUCCESSFULLY.

Bad trans mounts or motor mounts may be a cause of the binding...if it is binding that is causing the clutch disk to not release.


03-21-2007, 12:47 PM
When it happens the clutch will not disengage and the clutch pedal cannot be depressed.. not even slightly. A couple of years ago when it first occured I posted a query to the forum and Mr. Biggs suggested I haul my keister under the car and grease the clutch shaft... which I did and the problem did not return... for a while... yet my continual attention to greasing the clutch shaft, etc. has not kept it from its occasional freezing/binding/sticking. Thus I have surmised that the problem may lie elsewhere.

Keep in mind that it works great most of the time. I have not noticed any slippage even under hard acceleration.

Of course, as is the way with these things, it never sticks when one is near tools, jack or a hoist so a feller can maybe see what's going on.

Is there any way to do a visual inspection to peek up in the bellhousing/clutch area to see if there is a build up of oil soaked gunk in there?

60 Hawk. 49 2R5, 39 Champion
Woodbury, Minnesota

03-21-2007, 01:14 PM
Maybe the throw out bearing is binding on the trans front bearing retainer? I would make usre you have a retainer available, just in case.


03-21-2007, 03:10 PM
I'd also check the pins on the linkages for wear while you're in there; probably not your problem but they do wear badly. fix is to weld them back up and grind smooth again.


55 Commander Starlight

03-21-2007, 05:33 PM
Yes as David says, also buy the timing cover GASKET. The one we sell comes with the seal and the water Manifold Gaskets you will also need. That may be where a Parts store won't work! And Water Manifold Gaskets are not sold separately at any FLAPS!

quote:Originally posted by 1956 Hawk

If you are taking the oil pan off you will also need the timing cover gasket. By the way, not to knock the Studebaker vendors, but most if not all of the parts you need are available from your local auto parts store.DavidDavid

Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

John Kirchhoff
03-21-2007, 08:37 PM
Since it's the pedal that won't depress, you can rule out the disc being stuck to the flywheel. I believe I'd do as Dick suggested and check the motor mounts as well as the clutch shaft and pedal shaft. You may want to disconnect the adjusting rod between the petal and clutch. You could then work the pedal to see if there's any binding there as well as the shaft that goes into the bellhousing. That might help narrow down the problem area. You should be able to rotate the clutch release shaft quite a bit and when you do, it's normal to hear the bearing strike the fingers of the pressure plate. If they both work smoothly, you might then check out the rear motor mount. Mine was like Jello from decades of oil on it.

You might also check to see how much free play the pedal has and how far out the threaded rod between the pedal shaft and clutch shaft has been adjusted. The reason I say this is because there's a very remote chance there's two things going on there. Pretty unlikely, but it's possible the disc could be worn very thin and the fingers on the pressure plate are worn down considerabaly as well. With the plate worn very thin, that would let the fingers move back towards the throwout bearing. Badly worn fingers end up with a sharp, knife edge and I could see the sharp edges biting into the throwout bearing face, thus preventing the bearing from moving forward and disengaging the clutch. Like I said, very, very remote but certainly a possibility. Usually a badly worn plate will slip or squall as the rivets slip on the flywheel. Badly worn fingers will let you depress the pedal, but often times the clutch will drag and not release completely. Also the common "over center" feeling when depressing the pedal isn't there either.

I'd sure check the shafts and rear mount. Good luck.

03-21-2007, 09:55 PM
I would also check the condition of the little block pivot on the clutch adjusting rod (part #1541533).