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mtdoraford
04-27-2006, 06:54 PM
Can anyone please advise: When finishing the body work on a 63 Avanti, should the last blocking/sanding be done on or before the Gelcoat process. In other words, the last process before the sealer is applied prior to painting, is it the Gelcoat or the final block sanding/priming? As a inexperienced, autobody man, I'm looking for the right help. Also, can anyone advise of the largest size wheels ( both in width and height...wheel backspacing) that will fit a 63 Avanti without rubbing the fenders and/or body. I'm trying to fit a 16" aftermarket wheel to this car, that now has a Ford 8.8 rear end w/Disc Brakes.

Thanks for your help.[8D]

Alan
04-27-2006, 08:30 PM
Gel-coat is for when you put a part in a mold, it dries with no air contact, if you use it as a top coat it will stay tacky forever. On the wheels I have found that 235X60X15 on a 7" rim with a 4 3/4" back space is as big as you can put on an Avanti with out problems on the front. So go to the corresponding 16" size for diam.

Dick Steinkamp
04-27-2006, 08:59 PM
quote:Originally posted by mtdoraford

Can anyone please advise: When finishing the body work on a 63 Avanti, should the last blocking/sanding be done on or before the Gelcoat process. In other words, the last process before the sealer is applied prior to painting, is it the Gelcoat or the final block sanding/priming? As a inexperienced, autobody man, I'm looking for the right help. Also, can anyone advise of the largest size wheels ( both in width and height...wheel backspacing) that will fit a 63 Avanti without rubbing the fenders and/or body. I'm trying to fit a 16" aftermarket wheel to this car, that now has a Ford 8.8 rear end w/Disc Brakes.

Thanks for your help.[8D]


Unless the Ford rear end is exactly the same width wheel mounting face to wheel mounting face as the original Dana 44 AND exactly the same spot in the wheel well, comparisons with stock Avantis max tire/wheel size and offsets won't mean much. You'll probably have to do some carefull measurement (front and rear) to get a starting point...but even then, you will probably end up doing some trial-and-error testing (cornering, bumps, etc.) to find the real max.

Here's a calculator you can use to find 16" tires the same width or height (probably not both) as a 235/60/15...

http://www.dakota-truck.net/TIRECALC/tirecalc.html





http://thenobot.org/images/s2d/s2d_01.jpg

52hawk
04-28-2006, 08:41 AM
Gel coat will harden if you spray mold release over it,as soon as it becomes 'tacky'.Let it dry for a day or so,and block sand with 80grit.Fill imperfections with filler and primer.
Eastwood used to sell gelcoat that hardens without the mold release coat,and I'd imagine they still do. The only right way to refinish bare 'glass is to re-gelcoat[IMHO] Oh yeah-I'm using panel adhesive right now for filling the seams and repaired spots on a '68 Corvette,no bondo.-harder to sand,but finishes really nice.


LaSalle,Il
61Hawk
60Lark

sbca96
04-28-2006, 10:12 PM
quote:Originally posted by mtdoraford
Also, can anyone advise of the largest size wheels ( both in width and height...wheel backspacing)

I am running 17 x 8, with 245 series tires on my 63. It requires a
brake setup like I have, OR a 1/4 to 3/8 spacer up front, no mod rear.

I posted more info on a previous thread, and an article in Avanti
Magazine.

http://hometown.aol.com/sbca96/images/AvantiRims/Avanti03Rims4.jpg

Tom

52ragtop
05-17-2006, 12:17 AM
Block the body down with a LONG block and 80 grit paper, I try to avoid paint stripper, as it's a bear to get it ALL out. Finish any fiberglass work, then plastic filler work, once done, mask it off and find use of a paint booth! Use Morton Paints "Eliminator" it's fiberglass resin with gray color pigment added to it. shake well! (it's real thick) mix only a gun full at a time and spray on 2-3 good heavy wet coats. Once dry, do not attempt to dry sand it, you'll be there all day and use a lot of paper!
Again, use a LONG block, and 220 grit wet or dry paper, wet sand it. The eliminator is good stuff, and will seal the bare fiberglass. When you spray it on, it's mixed with fiberglass hardner, so, clean out the gun immeadiately after use! or throw the gun away.
Most important, DO NOT spray at home, in the garage, as you will be cleaning overspray off of anything NOT covered up, including the neighbors cars! and this stuff does not come off easy either!
Wear a GOOD high dollar respirator! Your lungs and health will like you. This is NOT childs play! Fiberglass resin airbourne and getting into your lungs can kill you! Unless you have a paint booth available, talk to a Collision Center near you, supply the eliminator, and have the car all ready to go, let them spray it for you, it will cost you less in the long rum.
After blocking with 220 wet/dry paper, mask it off again, and spray a good 2 part primer 2-3 coats again. Let dry wet sand (with a long block) using 400 grit wet or dry paper, use it wet with lots of water. Finish blocking and sanding with 400 grit. then paint it, do NOT use any paper finer then 400 grit! if you do, the paint won't stick in the corners or on edges.
I've been painting cars and running a Collision Center for 30+ years! One more thing, if you find a spot where you need more filler after the eliminator, scuff it up with 40 or 80 grit and spread the filler over it. The filler WILL stick! Especially if you get a glazing putty.
Just remember, before you start, wash the paint down with wax and grease remover, (formula 409 works well) and keep it clean as you go! Block a panel at a time, and use a hose and soapy water to wash it down after each panel. Also blow the hose up into the wheel wells, and get as much dirt off as you can BEFORE going into the booth for paint, clean car in, makes a clean car out! Also, before you paint, (or have a shop paint it) offer to go in and clean the booth and change the filters too! I alsways wash down the walls and the floors, use a stiff broom and some "formula 409" on the walls and floor too! It DOES make a BIG difference on the "trash" in the paint

Jim

Dick Steinkamp
05-17-2006, 10:18 AM
quote:Originally posted by 52ragtop

Block the body down with a LONG block and 80 grit paper...

Jim


Thanks for the detailed post, Jim [^]. Nice to have this expertise on the forum. Post a picture of your '52. That thing MUST be one beautiful convertable! [8D]



http://thenobot.org/images/s2d/s2d_01.jpg

N8N
05-17-2006, 10:20 AM
it is, Dick, and he's got a really stunning steering wheel on it too, I don't know where he found it but it is awesome.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel