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  • #1

    Pics of the drivetrain mock-up in my '54

    I added some new pics tonight. Suprisingly everything fit as planned. I put the body back on and only had to cut a small patch out of the
    tunnel due to the offset driveshaft loop in the rear.

    I even managed to get the T5 mounted low enough to be able to avoid hacking up the tunnel and avoid building some hidious center console. Next up -remount the upper a-arms of the Phantom kit to allow for proper suspension geometry. This car is going to sit nice and low.

    Hope this works:


    http://community.webshots.com/album/548808892ACsWie

    Tags: None
  • #2
    quote:Originally posted by wcarroll@outrageous.net

    I added some new pics tonight. Suprisingly everything fit as planned. I put the body back on and only had to cut a small patch out of the
    tunnel due to the offset driveshaft loop in the rear.

    I even managed to get the T5 mounted low enough to be able to avoid hacking up the tunnel and avoid building some hidious center console. Next up -remount the upper a-arms of the Phantom kit to allow for proper suspension geometry. This car is going to sit nice and low.

    Hope this works:


    http://community.webshots.com/album/548808892ACsWie

    Very nice, Wil! []

    What's up with the Phantom kit? Why does it need modification?



    Dick Steinkamp
    Bellingham, WA

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    • #3
      Thanks Dick.
      The problems I'm having with the front suspension are mainly due to my desire for a low ride height. I believe the Phantom Kit is specifically advertised as having virtually no bump-steer and I'm just starting to really get into the dynamics of this type of setup -with a little help from Heidt's website. My problem is that I'm using 2" dropped spindles and the car still isn't low enough for my taste. Because of this I will need to mount the upper A-arms inboard about an inch and use some sort of tie-rod end mount spacer to keep the correct geometry for the tie-rods. The Phantom Kit uses a Flaming River Uni-steer rack and Ford Granada spindles. As I understand it -it is important to keep the upper and lower arms parallel and have the traveling arc of the tie-rod end and the spindle consistent? I'm going to have to take some more measurments and to what I can get away with. I don't expect the car to handle like a BMW -but I certainly don't want to have to keep both hands on the wheel at all times!

      Comment

      • #4
        Very nice job Wil, but being a pretty much factory stock/super-stock Stude racer, I have to ask a stupid question! What are those fan-dangled injection like thingies on the intake ports for? And who makes em?
        Also will that Avanti water manifold clear the radiator, being so much farther forward than the Hawk R2/R3 unit?

        Thanks, Rich.

        quote:Originally posted by wcarroll@outrageous.net

        I added some new pics tonight. Suprisingly everything fit as planned. I put the body back on and only had to cut a small patch out of the
        tunnel due to the offset driveshaft loop in the rear.

        I even managed to get the T5 mounted low enough to be able to avoid hacking up the tunnel and avoid building some hidious center console. Next up -remount the upper a-arms of the Phantom kit to allow for proper suspension geometry. This car is going to sit nice and low.

        Hope this works:


        http://community.webshots.com/album/548808892ACsWie

        StudeRich
        Ferndale, WA
        StudeRich
        Second Generation Stude Driver,
        Proud '54 Starliner Owner
        SDC Member Since 1967

        Comment

        • #5
          quote:Originally posted by wcarroll@outrageous.net

          Thanks Dick.
          The problems I'm having with the front suspension are mainly due to my desire for a low ride height. I believe the Phantom Kit is specifically advertised as having virtually no bump-steer and I'm just starting to really get into the dynamics of this type of setup -with a little help from Heidt's website. My problem is that I'm using 2" dropped spindles and the car still isn't low enough for my taste. Because of this I will need to mount the upper A-arms inboard about an inch and use some sort of tie-rod end mount spacer to keep the correct geometry for the tie-rods. The Phantom Kit uses a Flaming River Uni-steer rack and Ford Granada spindles. As I understand it -it is important to keep the upper and lower arms parallel and have the traveling arc of the tie-rod end and the spindle consistent? I'm going to have to take some more measurments and to what I can get away with. I don't expect the car to handle like a BMW -but I certainly don't want to have to keep both hands on the wheel at all times!
          When my black car was about at the stage of yours, I had the perfect (for me) ride height. With the front sheet metal, glass, fluids, etc. finally there, it was too low (I know, I know...if it's too low, you're too old [V]). Anyway, just a caution that the car will come down some more once you have it together.

          Beautiful job!!



          Dick Steinkamp
          Bellingham, WA

          Comment

          • #6
            Hey Rich -no such thing as a stupid question. That's a 6x2bbl manifold made by Weiend-called the Drag Star -I think. I saw it on Ebay and couldn't resist. As far as the water pump/manifold goes -not sure if it will fit yet. I guess I'll know once I try to put the front end together. I might have to swap out the pump for a standard style -which wouldn't be so bad seeing as how I'm a symetrical freak. Lately the offset Avanti style manifold has been bugging the crap out of me!

            Comment

            • #7
              Everything looks great. Where did you get this phamton kit from? Please let us know how it rides when you get it on road. Great Job.

              1956 Studebaker Pelham Wagon Houston, Texas
              Remember, \"When all is said and done. More is always said then ever done.\"

              Comment

              • #8
                Dick -I know what you mean about getting the height just right and then after bolting on every nut and filling all the fluids -you find out it's too low! Did that with my Hawk years ago and had to add spacers because I cut too much coil. The cool thing about the AirRide suspension I'm installing is that you don't need to have any weight on the front end in order to get your ride height dialed. The shocks have a specific range and you just increase the air pressure to bring them up to their working height. Makes mock-up real easy.

                Comment

                • #9
                  Which front engine mounts did you use? If there not Stude. parts, how thick are they? Thanks,

                  Darryl C. Lewallen
                  Darryl C. Lewallen Clarkesville, Ga.

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    Daryl -I'll probably be machining my own mounts from polyurethane
                    -not completely rigid and not too spongy. I've also dropped the engine as low as possible to help with the tranny clearance -so I need to run lower profile mounts than the stock dognuts. I'm also thinking about fabricating new mount brackets all together in order to gain some extra clearance -that way I can run as thick a mount as possible.

                    Comment

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