Good place to get an engine rebuilt?

[55pres]

Hi all!

I'm starting to look around for a place were I can get my V8 rebuilt. I'm looking for someone that not only has a vast knowledge of Studebakers, but has all the right tools to do the job right. I wish I could do the job myself, but I don't have the means to do it. I would really like to stay in PA if I could, however I would be willing to travel to MD, or NJ, I don't want to deal with shipping the engine, our pick-up truck will do just fine. So if you guys have any suggestions, or even if you can do the work, let me know.
I'd rather be working on my Studebaker than solving physics problems any day!!

Thanks again

1955 President

Location: Central PA
Job: Student @ Penn State
Love of Studebakers?: High

[whacker]

Why don't you do it yourself? There is nothing difficult about it, just get the shop manual and follow the procedures exactly as described. If you get stuck, ask here and someone will help you. Even with buying some tools and an engine stand and a shop manual, you won't have what it costs you to have someone else do the work.

[Roscomacaw]

I've been sort of promoting my fellow Stude nut's engine building talents to those in the west. I've even let him assemble a few engines for me of late. Yes, I can put together a Stude V8 but Ken does them alot more often than I do and besides that, he needs the work.
Heh - I traded him a car for the last engine he built for me.
Of course, 55 pres, I realize that California's too far for your needs but I just wanted to throw out Ken's name and abilities one more time.

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

[11SecAvanti]

Call Redline Performance Machine Unlimited in Richmond, Va. if you want it right. 804-794-9043. Ask for Keith.

Start and Stage Your Studebakers

[Guest]

Thanks for all the suggestions, but like I said, I want to stay in or close to PA. Its not going to be a full out race engine, I just want it to last and be done right. I'm sure I could put it together alright, I really need someone to do the machince work and what not. Would a blueprint & balance be too much? I have a 289 crank to put in the 55 block, so I think balancing might be a good idea, also I think it should be bored to true up the cylinders, and make a nice uniform bore for the longer 289 stroke. Also, I've heard if you run R3 valves you need to bore anyhow? .060 over?
Thanks again

1955 President

Location: Central PA
Job: Student @ Penn State
Love of Studebakers?: High

[JDP]

I can have the machine shop work done here in Md and you can come down to the Annaoplis Md area and N8 and I will walk you though the assembly over a weekend. If you are converting to a 289, you'll need pistons, so a bore would be suggested. I'd add the R2+ cam, maybe R3 intake valves if it were mine.

Studebaker On The Net http://stude.com
64 R2 4 speed Challenger
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
63 Daytona Convert.

[Guest]

quote:Originally posted by JDP

I can have the machine shop work done here in Md and you can come down to the Annaoplis Md area and N8 and I will walk you though the assembly over a weekend. If you are converting to a 289, you'll need pistons, so a bore would be suggested. I'd add the R2+ cam, maybe R3 intake valves if it were mine.

Studebaker On The Net http://stude.com
64 R2 4 speed Challenger
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
63 Daytona Convert.

That sounds like the best plan yet, I might have to take you up on that offer. Who is the shop and what kind of prices do they charge?
Of course I'll need 289 pistons, I just can't decide if I want the flat top or dish pistons, I need to figure out what the compression will be, I think with the over-bore I might want to stick with the dish and run 86 or 87 octane. I was planning on using R3 valves.
Thanks

1955 President

Location: Central PA
Job: Student @ Penn State
Love of Studebakers?: High