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Eman
03-05-2006, 09:00 PM
Today I took my dad for his first ride in Stella. Seems as we went around the block, the rough hiccup or cough that she had, went away (maybe something temporarily clogged the carb?).

Anyway, Stella is an automatic, and today she was having a tough time "catching" into gear. Awhile back I posted she didn't want to get into Reverse. Well, now when I start up from a stop, the engine revs like it's getting gas, but she doesn't immediately start going. Not sure if the correct phrase is the transmission is slipping, but I'm open to any suggestions on fixing it.

On a side note, has anyone used the Lucas products for transmission or oil. I've got a few drips and I heard that stuff was pretty good.



1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")
www.bulletshots.net
www.bulletshots.net/blog

gordr
03-05-2006, 10:16 PM
quote:Originally posted by Eman

Today I took my dad for his first ride in Stella. Seems as we went around the block, the rough hiccup or cough that she had, went away (maybe something temporarily clogged the carb?).

Anyway, Stella is an automatic, and today she was having a tough time "catching" into gear. Awhile back I posted she didn't want to get into Reverse. Well, now when I start up from a stop, the engine revs like it's getting gas, but she doesn't immediately start going. Not sure if the correct phrase is the transmission is slipping, but I'm open to any suggestions on fixing it.

On a side note, has anyone used the Lucas products for transmission or oil. I've got a few drips and I heard that stuff was pretty good.



1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")
www.bulletshots.net
www.bulletshots.net/blog



Eman, that sounds like what the transmission shops call "morning sickness." The rubber seals on the internal servos have become old and hard, and don't seal well until the tranny warms up. If the fluid level is low due to leaks, that may exacerbate the problem.

I've had no experience with Lucas products, but Trans-X has been commonly recommended as a palliative for this problem on the Stude newsgroup. Please note my careful choice of words here;)

The "cure" is to tear down the tranny and install new seals and friction materials. If it is otherwise undamaged, you probably won't need hard parts, but I believe that most tranny people would recommend you have the convertor rebuilt.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

Eman
03-06-2006, 10:12 AM
Unfortunately I may have to go the inexpensive route for now and add some Lucas or Trans X... hoping it works. I don't have the knowledge, funds, or access to anything heavy duty enough for a transmission overhaul.



1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")
www.bulletshots.net
www.bulletshots.net/blog

Eman
03-06-2006, 02:00 PM
I haven't tried adjusting the linkage any (Not really sure how to do that yet either). Think that could be part of the problem or solution?



1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")
www.bulletshots.net
www.bulletshots.net/blog

jackb
03-07-2006, 12:48 PM
Have you/are you checking the transmission level in "D" (drive) ? Make sure you have warmed up the engine/tranny, and are checking it correctly. Correct level "may" help with the reverse, but unlikely the surging you describe. I have used a qt can of TRANS-X in my Flight-o-matic 2 years ago (3000 miles) with little help on cold days. I have just rebuilt another tranny for dropping in...just haven't got around to it yet. I hope I don't see the "hook" before I replace it....

Roscomacaw
03-07-2006, 01:22 PM
The Detriot Gear (Studebaker Automatic) used thru 1955 cars (and thru 1956 trucks) get's it's fluid checked with the tranny fully warmed up, the parking brake set (or someone holding the brakes), the car running at idle and the shift selector in "L" - not "D".

If the fluid dipstick shows the fluid to be low, it's important to know that the distance between the "low" mark on the dipstick and the "full" mark represents one pint of fluid. Don't exceed that full mark or foaming might occur. This would play hell with the operation of the unit.[}:)]

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

Eman
03-07-2006, 07:22 PM
Okay, Stella must be possessed or something. Parked and not running, the tranny fluid is right where it should be. After running the car for a while, D and L show little to no fluid on the dipstick. And crazy enough, N and R has fluid all over the dipstick!

And here is a little more in depth description of what's happening:
Acceleration is fine, but the trans slips under heavy pressure/load. When you stop, the transmission remains in the higher gear and you can hear spinning and revving from the tranny. You wait for a sec, then you hear it fall into the lower gear and everything is fine again. We tried starting in L (kind of forcing it into the lower gear) then moving it into D, and it works fine (other than the occasional slipping under heavy pressure).



1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")
www.bulletshots.net
www.bulletshots.net/blog

Roscomacaw
03-07-2006, 08:05 PM
Only what you see with it in "L" is relevant. None of those other positions on the selector is mentioned in the DG manual.
If it shows low in "L" then you need to add some fluid util it reads Full in Low (L)

From the Low mark on the dipstick to the Full mark, it takes one pint to bring it up to full.:)

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

studegary
03-08-2006, 03:45 PM
At this point, especially with driving the car very low on transmission fluid, I would do a service on the transmission. The fluid in there may be dirty and burnt from slipping components in the transmission. That is a rare and expensive transmission. Preserve it. Drain the transmission and the torque convertor. Refill with a good quality fluid. When the fluid is warm, bring the level up to Full with the transmission in Low. Recheck a few times after driving. You will probably work some air out and need to top off. Do not overfill.

Eman
03-08-2006, 05:30 PM
I'll try adding the fluid as you guys have mentioned. I expressed to Mr. Biggs in an email that I was afraid of overflowing since the fluid level is normal when the engine is off (yet almost non-existant in Low), but maybe adding fluid in Low will get it distributed differently. Thanks.



1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")
www.bulletshots.net
www.bulletshots.net/blog

Roscomacaw
03-08-2006, 06:57 PM
Eman, What you don't understand is that with the selector in different positions, different amounts of fluid are circulating thru different parts of the transmission - consequently, different levels of fluid readings.
I couldn't begin to guess why the trans maker chose the "L" position for a fluid check, but you can be sure there's definite reason behind it. As to it reading full with the engine off, that's when neither of the two pumps are moving fluid and alot of the fluid (not all of it) settles into the pan.
This thing isn't just pumping fluid like a parts washer. There's multiple hydraulic servos and valves that have differing demands for volume of fluid as the transmission performs various selcted functions.
I see Gary's calling for a "service" but I'd bet he doesn't recall that you just did that in recent weeks. Probably, what's happened is you never really got the trans fully refilled. Especially if you were trying to second guess how to read the dipstick.
Get it warm, add fluid with the Low gear selected until it reads Full on the dipstick. Then come back and give us a performance report.:D

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

Eman
03-11-2006, 06:55 PM
Alright, here's the update...

I got the engine warm, checked the transmission fluid, added fluid, and repeated until I got it to the Full mark on the dipstick. A few times I shifted through the gears just to make sure things went circulating where they needed. Then took her out for a spin again. I didn't feel any slipping, and don't think I felt any major hesitations like before. (Hopefully I'll take her out again this weekend. I didn't have as much time today as I had wanted.)

The bad news is she still doesn't want to go in Reverse. I can shift into Reverse, but she doesn't even feel like she gets into that gear sometimes. And when I press on the gas, sometimes she still wants to go forward. Maybe I need to look at the linkage next? (Like I know where or what that really is!)[B)]

Anyway, thatnks for the insight on the proper way to add the tranny fluid and check it. I think that definitely helped and got me going in the right direction again.



1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")
www.bulletshots.net
www.bulletshots.net/blog

buddymander
03-13-2006, 12:50 AM
Your transmission accomplishes reverse by using the low/reverse band and the direct clutch. If the direct clutch is bad, then you won't have any third gear. If the low/reverse band is bad, then you won't have any low gear engine braking. This can be caused by a burnt band, a broken band, incorrect band adjustment, blown servo seals or a problem with band struts. After you test drive it, take the pan off and see if you find anything weird laying in the bottom of it.

52hawk
03-13-2006, 09:34 AM
Hope fully just a linkage problem.My Lark won't go into reverse without a good hard tug down on the handle.But when the linkage is forced,she goes right into reverse perfectly.[this is next on my list of small details on the car]I know without some adjusting,and probably some new bushings in the linkage,soon I won't have any reverse...

LaSalle,Il
61Hawk
60Lark

gordr
03-13-2006, 12:37 PM
quote:Originally posted by 52hawk

Hope fully just a linkage problem.My Lark won't go into reverse without a good hard tug down on the handle.But when the linkage is forced,she goes right into reverse perfectly.[this is next on my list of small details on the car]I know without some adjusting,and probably some new bushings in the linkage,soon I won't have any reverse...

LaSalle,Il
61Hawk
60Lark


Failure to go into reverse is a classic symptom of deteriorated tranny mounts. Remember the linkage rod is PUSHED down to select Reverse. As the mount ages and sags, the tranny slips down a bit, away from the steering column, to which the linkage rod is fixed at the front. It has to move only a fraction of an inch for the reverse gate to get "out of reach".

Eman may have a touch of the same problem.

Lengthening the shifter rod at the clevis will make the shifting problem go away for while, but the right way to fix it is to install new tranny mounts. They are available from all the usual vendors; not especially cheap, but money well spent, nevertheless.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

Eman
03-13-2006, 02:16 PM
I think they were in pretty bad shape last time I looked, so I'll probably try and start there. How tough is it to replace them? This won't call for an engine lift or anything will it?

Again, thanks for all the info and suggestions.



1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")
www.bulletshots.net
www.bulletshots.net/blog

gordr
03-13-2006, 04:43 PM
quote:Originally posted by Eman

I think they were in pretty bad shape last time I looked, so I'll probably try and start there. How tough is it to replace them? This won't call for an engine lift or anything will it?

Again, thanks for all the info and suggestions.



1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")
www.bulletshots.net
www.bulletshots.net/blog

Eman, I don't remember when I last saw a '51 Commander automatic, so I don't know if they use the same tranny mounts as later cars. I changed mounts in my GT Hawk (they are under the bellhousing), and it took me about an hour. I put the car up on jack stands, and then used my floor jack to raise the tranny off the mounts. You can raise it JUST enough to slip the mounts out of there.

Generally, that is the case. Use a floor jack, scissors jack, or bottle jack, along with a block of wood to protect the oil pan/tranny pan, and jack the engine or tranny up as far as is needed to remove the mount in question. Check beforehand to ensure that nothing, like may be the distributor cap, can get crushed. Also watch for things like wires, linkages, and the oil pressure hose. Take your time, and have a helper watch topside, while you jacking underneath. BTW, it is a good idea to "crack" the fasteners on the mounts before jacking up the engine/tranny, to avoid having to really heave on it when it's somewhat precariously supported.

Generally speaking, though, changing mounts (insulators in the parts book) is a pretty easy job. Dirty, though[}:)]



Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

Eman
03-13-2006, 07:28 PM
Another one of my questions was going to be if I needed to loosen anything else beforehand. Also, if this would increase my chances of damaging or loosening something I didn't want loosened.

And so Gord, you jacked it up right under the tranny pan? (That kinda scares me!)



1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")
www.bulletshots.net
www.bulletshots.net/blog

Roscomacaw
03-13-2006, 08:51 PM
You wanna use a piece of wood that's as long as the tranny pan is wide. That way you're not exerting all the pressure in the middle of the pan and possibly bending it inwards. Most real tranny jacks have four upturned fingers that you adjust to where they only exert pressure on the perimeter (or "lip") of the pan, but if you're CAREFUL it should be OK. Just watch that the tranny doesn't hang or wedge against something to where you're trying to FORCE it to go when it can't.[xx(]


Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

Hawk5619
03-17-2006, 11:26 PM
Good luck with that Stella auto trans. My 50 champ is a standard shift and I was talking to a old time studie guy the other day and told him that I wish mine had the the auto. He was quick to tell me that the automatic was a pain back in those early years.
Sounds to me that the fluid level and linkage is the key to get that thing right.
Good luck Stella!

Hawk
50 Champion
60 Lark
63 Hawk

Roscomacaw
03-18-2006, 10:08 AM
That early Stude automatic was a great transmission. Fact is, it was too good - that's why they got away from it after 1955 ('56 in trucks and some Champions, Gary:D). The Ford-o-Matic had less features than the Studebaker automatic and therefor was considerably cheaper per unit. Consequently, Studebaker ended up with the Ford-o-matic with some minor adaptations to accomodate Studebaker's specifications (mainly, shift pattern - which is different from the Ford-o-matic's)
The earlier Stude auto tranny has a lock-up torque convertor (like some modern automatics crow about). It also was "smarter" than some of today's trannies. For instance, you could put the shift lever in "R" while you were cruising along at 60 or 70 and the tranny knew better than to obey your silly move. [8]
It's only problem nowdays is a lack of tranny mechanics that know anything about it.[V]

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

starlightchamp
03-19-2006, 06:07 PM
A friend with a 50 Commander Starlight and auto transmission told me he had mucho trouble finding rebuild parts until he discovered Borg-Warner who supplied the tranny also sold to Jaguar and they used the design for umpty years. He was able to get the parts from Jaguar dealer. Guess it was pretty good !
BTW I have a 1950 Chilton's Motor Age magazine that has an article on "servicing Studebaker's Automatic Transmissions and a 1950 Floyd Cramer book that has info on servicing the 1950 auto trannies. If anyone needs same, I would copy the articles.

Starlightchamp
1950 Champion Starlight
1963 Hawk GT

Eman
03-19-2006, 06:23 PM
Well, I got the mounts loose, but can't get them out. I raised the tranny as high as I could, but there still needs to be at least 1/4" or so for the bolt (that is inside the mount) to clear the hole it's coming out of. Is there a knack to taking it out?



1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")
www.bulletshots.net
www.bulletshots.net/blog

studegary
03-19-2006, 06:55 PM
quote:Originally posted by starlightchamp

A friend with a 50 Commander Starlight and auto transmission told me he had mucho trouble finding rebuild parts until he discovered Borg-Warner who supplied the tranny also sold to Jaguar and they used the design for umpty years. He was able to get the parts from Jaguar dealer. Guess it was pretty good !



Maybe things have changed, but I can recall repairing Jaguar transmissions with Studebaker parts because the Studebaker parts were easier to get and a lot cheaper.

CHAMP
03-20-2006, 06:38 AM
EMAN, DID YOU GET MY E/MAIL? YOU MIGHT HAVE TO LOOSEN OR REMOVE CROSS MEMBER. I! NOT 100% SURE ABUOT THIS, PERHAPS SOMEONE ELSE ON FORUM CAN GIVE MORE INFO. CHAMP:)

Eman
03-20-2006, 08:05 AM
I got it. Thanks! Mr. Biggs also mentioned lowering the jack a bit so I can move the tranny a little from side to side to get the mounts out. I think both will help. I believe I had it jacked up too high anyway... hopefully nothing was damaged.

Wonder if it would be better to loosen the tranny from the crosmember or loosen the crossmember from the sides of the frame?





quote:Originally posted by CHAMP

EMAN, DID YOU GET MY E/MAIL? YOU MIGHT HAVE TO LOOSEN OR REMOVE CROSS MEMBER. I! NOT 100% SURE ABUOT THIS, PERHAPS SOMEONE ELSE ON FORUM CAN GIVE MORE INFO. CHAMP:)


1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")
www.bulletshots.net
www.bulletshots.net/blog

CHAMP
03-20-2006, 11:06 AM
YOU MIGHT HAVE TO LOOSEN BOTH. CHAMP[8D]

Eman
03-26-2006, 07:37 PM
Well, I got the driver's side rear motor mount out and the new one in... but can't get the two holes lined up properly to screw them back in. And I haven't attempted to take the passenger side mount out again yet.

These mounts I got from Stephen Allen's must be more universal than specifically for my year. The bolts coming out of each one are different lengths as well as one is fine threaded and the other is coarse. I even had to chop off 1/4" from the shorter one to make it the same length as the one I took off! (And so I could get it back in.)

Anyway, things are slow going... I'm still a little sick and this weekend was my little girl's second birthday party. Maybe this week I can attack the mounts again. It's just something that's not supposed to be too difficult turns into a major project again with little things not going right. And I still don't even know if this is the cause of my Reverse problem.[B)]



1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")
www.bulletshots.net
www.bulletshots.net/blog

Roscomacaw
03-27-2006, 01:28 PM
There's a reason that one stud's longer than the other. The left-hand mount (at least on 53 and later - I'm honestly not sure about 51 & 52 cars:() have a thick spacer between the mount and the cross-member. This offsets the engine-tranny a bit for necessary clearance. Right-hand drive cars use the spacer on the other side. Anyway's, that longer stud's for the side that gets the spacer.;)
Since all Studes use that same mount type (with the DG tranny), it's a one-size-fits-all situation. Even tho, as I said, I'm not sure about the 51-52 car's using the spacer. Matters not since the longer or shorter stud would work either way on a car that didn't have a spacer. BTW, did you encounter such a spacer when you took these mounts loose?[:I] It just looks like a 1/2" thick washer.;)
Out of curiousity, take the one new mount and compare it's hole spacing against the old one you took out. Are they the same? Should be. And there's no difference in hole spacing - right vs. left.[^]

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

N8N
03-27-2006, 01:50 PM
the only way I was able to replace the trans. mounts on my '55 was to loosen the front mounts as well, otherwise I couldn't jack the bellhousing up high enough. At least in '55 the mounts are side specific, the holes where they bolt to the bellhousing are a little offset to one side of the metal.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

Eman
03-27-2006, 01:59 PM
I didn't notice a spacer on this (the left) side. I may try to get under there tonight to try and take off the right side mount.

Maybe the key to getting the mount's holes aligned with the tranny's holes is to bolt the mount to the crossmember first, in the center of the capsule shaped hole on the crossmember, then lower the tranny down onto it.

The holes on both mounts (old and new) look to be pretty identical and theoretically should line up.



1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")
www.bulletshots.net
www.bulletshots.net/blog

N8N
03-27-2006, 02:02 PM
I found it easier to bolt the mounts to the bellhousing first, with the tranny jacked up, then lower the whole mess onto the crossmember and muscle the engine/trans around until the studs dropped into their holes. YMMV of course. (and I was working on a different model car)

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

Eman
03-27-2006, 02:13 PM
I couldn't even budge the tranny with it jacked up, Nate. How difficult is it to get to the front mounts to loosen them?



quote:Originally posted by N8N

I found it easier to bolt the mounts to the bellhousing first, with the tranny jacked up, then lower the whole mess onto the crossmember and muscle the engine/trans around until the studs dropped into their holes. YMMV of course. (and I was working on a different model car)

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel


1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")
www.bulletshots.net
www.bulletshots.net/blog

Eman
03-27-2006, 02:22 PM
FYI, I just checked my chassis manual and part #532427 is the spacer and it's not used on a '51 Commander.



quote:Originally posted by Mr.Biggs

There's a reason that one stud's longer than the other. The left-hand mount (at least on 53 and later - I'm honestly not sure about 51 & 52 cars:() have a thick spacer between the mount and the cross-member. This offsets the engine-tranny a bit for necessary clearance. Right-hand drive cars use the spacer on the other side. Anyway's, that longer stud's for the side that gets the spacer.;)
Since all Studes use that same mount type (with the DG tranny), it's a one-size-fits-all situation. Even tho, as I said, I'm not sure about the 51-52 car's using the spacer. Matters not since the longer or shorter stud would work either way on a car that didn't have a spacer. BTW, did you encounter such a spacer when you took these mounts loose?[:I] It just looks like a 1/2" thick washer.;)
Out of curiousity, take the one new mount and compare it's hole spacing against the old one you took out. Are they the same? Should be. And there's no difference in hole spacing - right vs. left.[^]

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS


1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")
www.bulletshots.net
www.bulletshots.net/blog

N8N
03-27-2006, 03:20 PM
The front mounts on my '55 are not difficult to get to at all, esp. from underneath. IIRC your car has a different style front mount though.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

Eman
03-27-2006, 11:24 PM
I can get the posts into the crossmember and one bolt into each mount. Does the mount need to be compressed or something in order to get the second bolt into its hole?



1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")
www.bulletshots.net
www.bulletshots.net/blog

Roscomacaw
03-28-2006, 05:53 PM
Yeah, I see that now Eman. Don't know HOW I didn't see that in the first place![xx(] Alzdumbers is settin' in I guess!

No, they shouldn't have to be compressed.

You know, in thinking about what you've been saying, I can visualize you getting the stud in the slotted hole (in the crossmember) and one bolt into the bellhousing. This would be because the mount wasn't in proper alignment since the tranny's jacked up. You might try running whichever bolt it is you CAN get in up until it's almost snug. Then let the tranny down so that it sits as it's supposed to on the crossmember. Then get the second bolt started (assuming that the mount squares itself when the assemblage comes back down to where it's supposed to be). Not "compressed" per se, but aligned as it should be. If you could to this - then tighten both bolts and install the nut & washers on the stud, that should have it!:D We hope.

BTW, how gooey-gummy were the old mounts????[:o)]

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

Eman
03-28-2006, 07:40 PM
Haven't gotten back under there to try again today, but here's some pictures of the old and new mounts...

http://www.bulletshots.net/misc/mounts1.jpg

http://www.bulletshots.net/misc/mounts2.jpg

http://www.bulletshots.net/misc/mounts3.jpg

Not sure if they were bad enough to cause my Reverse problem, but if I don't ever get the new ones in and attached, I may never know!!![}:)]



1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")
www.bulletshots.net
www.bulletshots.net/blog

Roscomacaw
03-29-2006, 11:25 AM
Eman, looking at that last photo, I took a ruler and just held it up to the holes shown (not trying to get an honest measurement - just using the marks on the ruler for reference) and it looks to me like there's enough difference between the hole placement on the new ones to cause your problem!
Do us a favor and measure the distance between the inside edges of the holes on the new set and the same measurement on the old set. If there's a 16th or even an 8th of an inch difference, you're NOT gonna get that second bolt started![}:)] You may have to elongate one of the holes to win over this problem.

Recalling your comment that the old and new mounts "sorta" were the same. A tiny bit of "sorta", I could look past, but it looks to me like there's more "Sorta" than the situation should tolerate here.:(

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

Eman
04-01-2006, 06:54 PM
Yes, it's me again... Haven't measured the holes, but it sure would be nice if I could drop that crossmember! I can get to everything on the right side to loosen it, but the left side is something different. The crossmember bolts on the left frame rail with four bolts. I can get to the nuts on the two inner ones, but the two outer ones can't even be seen or reached. And they turn but definitely don't loosen since I can find/keep the nuts held in place. So another few hours under there of futile nonsense and I'm back on the computer.:(

1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")
www.bulletshots.net
www.bulletshots.net/blog

Eman
04-05-2006, 01:19 AM
Just FYI, the hole spacing (inner and outer) are the same on both sets of mounts.[xx(]

1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")
www.bulletshots.net
www.bulletshots.net/blog

Eman
04-06-2006, 12:51 AM
Good Lawd! The transmission mounts are finally on! What a pain in the... We found the two hard-to-find bolts so we could actually drop the crossmember a bit. And those mounts, because of their positioning and the way they were made, we had to shave off a good amount of one corner on each one. It was in the way of where the torque converter shield screws onto the housing. I'm so tired, we didn't even see if the car will now go into Reverse (not holding my breath). Y'all have a good night.



1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")
www.bulletshots.net
www.bulletshots.net/blog

Roscomacaw
04-06-2006, 05:35 PM
Good deal! (fingers crossed![:I])

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

CHAMP
04-08-2006, 11:32 AM
Just wonderimg how EMAN'S Stude. is doing and if reverse is working now? ( I Hope!!! ) Champ:)

Eman
04-09-2006, 09:08 PM
Guess what?... REVERSE IS NOW WORKING!!! Hooray![:p]:)

I reckon those mounts did the trick. I wonder if NOS mounts would have been easier? (As in I wouldn't have had to shave off a corner of rubber or shorten the stud.)

BTW, thanks to EVERYONE who offered suggestions and advice on and off the forum!


1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")
www.bulletshots.net
www.bulletshots.net/blog

Roscomacaw
04-10-2006, 11:26 AM
That is SO COOL!!![:0][:p]:D Eman, NOS would've been tough to find and besides that, 50+ year old rubber wouldn't be a good choice. Can you imagine trusting your Stella to 50 year old tires![xx(]
Really cool news. Now if I can just get this DG-tranny going in this 54 Coupe I bought. It was a running, driving car when they yanked the Champion driveline in the early 90s. The engine's gonna do fine, but they let the tranny sit out in the elements with practically no protection at all.[xx(] It was windy and sandy where it was setting and there's dirt inside the opening of the torque convertor.[V] Dirt don't do nice things to tranny innards!:(

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

CHAMP
04-10-2006, 02:43 PM
I'm so happy for you and Stella, hope you have many miles of care-free cruis-in with her! Champ[8D]