View Full Version : Original looking repaint

02-28-2006, 10:38 PM
What are the pros and cons of the various types of paint available today. I'm talking about a '53K, Lombard green and Chippewa green. Is it a good idea to try for an original looking finish or get what modern technology has to offer? Or can you do both?

53 Commander Hardtop
64 Champ 1/2 ton

02-28-2006, 11:21 PM
I'll let others debate the pros and cons. I know that White Post Restorations in Virginia (the money no object) uses modern basecoat/clearcoat. Don't take your 31 Duesenberg there if you have to ask "how much"?

02-28-2006, 11:23 PM
I needed to repaint the interior of my truck (all metal door panels and dash, very little upholstery), so I went to the local PPG auto paint store. I learned that enamel and laquer are passe nowadays, and urethane is in. I bought some of that urethane and boy, I like its characteristics MUCH more than the enamel I sprayed 20 years ago. I got it in the formulation to use as a single stage paint, like the original paint on the truck, but it is wonderful to work with. You mix the paint, reducer and hardener (4:1:1 ratio in my case), then it sprays on easy and gives a nice, self-leveling, smooth shine. And because of the hardener, you can sand it or "call it dry and finished" in about 12 hours.

Of course, the guys at the paint store can also set you up to do clear coat, if you prefer. Go talk to them, and if they don't treat you well, go talk to another paint store. I think they will be interested in helping a classic car enthusiast get the look that he wants.

http://rocketdillo.com/studebaker/misc/images/Current_Avacar.gif[/img=left] - DilloCrafter

1955 1/2 Ton Pickup
[i]The Red-Headed Amazon

02-28-2006, 11:45 PM
With a basecoat/ clearcoat the basecoat is the pigment, the actual color. It goes on thin, multiple coats until a smooth color is achieved. Depending on the color of the primer and the translucense of the basecoat, it could be three to six or seven coats. It's nearly impossible to run, drys quickly and dull. Then the urethane clearcoat is applied, thicker, gooey and shiny as a placid lake. Once it dries it can be wetsanded and polished to a glass finish.

The single stage urethane is basically the same type of paint but the pigment is mixed with the clearcoat. You don't want to "build up the color" with multiple coats of single stage. You want it to be right the first time. It too will wetsand and polish like glass.

And, the clearcoat and single stage can both run easily if you're not adept.

03-01-2006, 03:29 PM
Some of the newer paints are almost laid on like a giant run. Overlap can be as much as 75% and two coats is enough in most cases. But it also depends on your gun, how it's set and the pressure being used.

Tom - Lakeland, FL

1964 Studebaker Daytona

Michigan Speed - www.michiganspeed.com
Club Hot Rod - www.clubhotrod.com
LS1 Tech - www.ls1tech.com

03-01-2006, 06:52 PM
For everything you ever wanted to know about paint and bodywork, cruise on over to www.autobody101.com . It is a fantastic site and the forums are great.


63 Lark 2dr Sedan