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RHO
02-16-2006, 07:42 PM
Going to need a new one; have seen advertisement "someplace" awhile back for rebuilt or remanufactured oil pumps. Any opinions which route to go and a source for the pumps? Also, where's this oil pressure relief valve or assembly; is that separate from the pump?
Thanks

'55 Commander
'55 President

Alan
02-16-2006, 08:23 PM
Lional Stone 818-990-8916 has them and there are others. The relief valve is on the passengers side front of the block right above the pan rail behind a hex. plug with a spring. Have fun removing it if it has been there for a while.

rockne10
02-16-2006, 08:24 PM
Yes, the relief valve is separate from the pump. The relief valve is accessed from the lower right front corner of the block.
The oil pump would be inside the crankcase.
Kits for both of these are available from most of the big Studebaker vendors, as well as shop manuals. Well worth the investment.

RHO
02-16-2006, 08:35 PM
ok, thanks. The engine is down to the bare block and in the shop today for boring for new pistons and installing cam bearings. I just did notice that hex head you mentioned today when I took them the cam bearings while I was measuring the freeze plugs size. The engine has been dipped so for sure I'll need to remove that valve.
'55 Commander
'55 President

55Commander
02-17-2006, 05:00 PM
If the gears are good but the base plate is worn you can flip it over
and use the other side. I have done this before.

N8N
02-17-2006, 08:01 PM
There is a procedure in the shop manual for checking the oil pump with feeler gauges; I'm frugal enough that I would do that before making a big investment in a new/rebuilt one (NB: not true for Packard engines, those are probably all bad. Max Merrit rebuilt one for me; not cheap but looked good.) If the baseplate is scored you can flip it over as mentioned, alternately if the scoring is minor you can true it up by polishing it on some fine wet/dry sandpaper with a little oil laid on a piece of flat glass (BTDT)

Re: the OPRV, the key there is to make sure that a) it moves freely so it doesn't stick in the "open" position and b) the little pinhole in it is open so that the timing gears still get oil when the OPRV isn't open (i.e. engine hot, slow speed)

If I could offer some advice, the aluminum "filler block" at the front of the oil pan is probably waaaay out of true, I just trued one up last weekend and it involved lots of hammering and the same sandpaper/glass procedure as mentioned above for the oil pump plate. Don't overtorque the bottom four timing cover bolts or you'll just warp it again with a resultant oil leak (on a STUDEBAKER? naaaah...)

nate

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55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop
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DEEPNHOCK
02-17-2006, 08:51 PM
If your engine guy is not familiar with Stude engines, Do yourself a HUGE favor and take him a Stude service manual.
While the oil pump is basically an 'end play' lapping for fitment deal, your engine guy needs to know about (A) Stude's external relief valve, and more importantly (B) Stude's crank end play shim adjustment.
I can attest to several morked Stude engines due to no knowledge of crank shims, and can also add that too loose a rod side clearance that can cause low oil pressure issues.
Giving your engine guy a service manual to read can make a big difference, and begin a whole new friendshp...because there is a market for good Stude engine rebuilders.....
Jeff[8D]




quote:Originally posted by RHO

Going to need a new one; have seen advertisement "someplace" awhile back for rebuilt or remanufactured oil pumps. Any opinions which route to go and a source for the pumps? Also, where's this oil pressure relief valve or assembly; is that separate from the pump?
Thanks

'55 Commander
'55 President


DEEPNHOCK at Cox.net
Ocala, FL.
'37 Coupe Express
'37 Coupe Express Trailer
'61 Hawk
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http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock

Chicken Hawk
02-17-2006, 09:38 PM
[quote]Originally posted by DEEPNHOCK

[navy][b]
If your engine guy is not familiar with Stude engines, Do yourself a HUGE favor and take him a Stude service manual.

AND BE SURE HE FOLLOWS THE PROCEDURE FOR THE PISTON PIN AND CONNECTING ROD PINCH BOLTS! (AND THAT THE DRIVER SIDE REAR OIL GALLARY PLUG INSIDE THE 1 1/4" FREEZE PLUG IS INSTALLED). TED

RHO
02-17-2006, 10:08 PM
Thanks for all the tips. All they did at the engine shop was dip the engine, clean it, bore for new pistons, polish the crankshaft. We'll get the engine back tomorrow and be doing the reassembly, although we have not done a Studebaker engine before. I'll take all the advice and suggestions offered and most likely down the pike will be needing some more. Speaking of, what about the timing gears? They seem OK, but if it were a timing chain, I'd put a new one on. I'm thinking I should replace them, not knowing the history of the car that sat outside for many years with a stuck engine.

'55 Commander
'55 President

N8N
02-17-2006, 10:35 PM
The steel gear is probably fine, if the fiber gear looks questionable Ted Harbit had some aluminum ones made; I would assume that Fairborn Studebaker would have them if there are any left.

nate

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55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop
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