View Full Version : Window replacement

02-02-2006, 09:20 PM
I know this may be a stupid question but I need to replace two sidewindows in my 1940 Studebaker commander. I have them out of the car and have the new glass. I also have the rubber pad to put in the channel and on the side chrome of the front window. How is the glass attached? Is it just a press fit with the rubber in the channel or is glue used??

How is the best way to do this? I don't want to break the new glass.

28 dictator
40 commander

02-02-2006, 09:43 PM
Factory installation was press fit with the proper thickness of gasket to be very secure.
If any installation seems the least bit loose, urethane windshield sealant will assure it won't come apart but will also make dissassembly more difficult, should the need arise.

02-02-2006, 09:45 PM
It's just a tight push fit. Be aware, they DO make 3 different thicknesses of that rubber "holdem" strip. You need to have the RIGHT thickness to expect it to hold good.

The way the glass guys do it is to align the rubber on the edge it's gonna hold. Then, assuming you know WHERE that channel fits on the edge, align it and shove it over the rubber/glass edge as far as you can. Using a rubber mallet, tap that metal channel further on - working back and forth - until it's seated.
You need to have a piece of carpet or some such surface (one that's not slippery!) to brace the opposite edge of the glass on.
There are special shaped drivers (kinda like a punch) with a head that lets you apply the hammer force without beating up the slides for the window regulator's arms.
Frankly - although I've done it myself - I'd rather let the experts do it.[}:)]

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

02-04-2006, 06:43 PM
I worked in an Auto Glass shop many years ago, and Mr. Biggs is correct. We had a sturdy carpet-covered workbench we did this work on. First we would take a rotary wire brush and clean up the inside of the channel, removing all rust and old rubber. We would start with the thinnest rubber tape and make a trial fit, then keep trying thicker pieces of tape until the proper thickness was found. It must be tight to hold correctly, but you don't want it so tight that the channel bends too far apart. We used a leather mallet, and with the glass standing on edge, on the carpeted workbench, we would really pound away on the metal channel until it was seated on the glass. You will be surprised at how hard you can pound on it and not hurt the glass IF you are working on a sturdy bench with good carpet on it. Sometimes we put 2 layers of carpet under the glass. We sometimes used soapy water as a lubricant, but never used silicone spray in this application. Although we used a lot of 100% silicone spray for the felt channels where glass slid up and down in the doors.
And don't install the channel backwards! I did that once or twice.

But if you have never done it, you might feel more comfortable taking it to a good glass shop.

1953 Chev. 210 Convertible, 261 6cyl w/Offy dual intake (But I always did love Studebakers!)
1995 Dodge/Cummins Pickup, 250 HP, 620 Ft. Lbs. of Torque, ATS trans.