View Full Version : Oil leakimg Hawk

01-28-2006, 06:03 PM
My 63 Hawk has the rear main seal oil leak. It used to be a few drops but getting worse. Can the oil pan be dropped down to replace this seal or time to pull the motor? I will have to get one of the local shops for this job and they all have different ideas.
Whats the best way to go?


01-28-2006, 06:49 PM
First, make damned sure it's the rear main seal that's the culprit. Just because it's leaking off the back of the engine doesn't automatically pin the blame on the main seal.;)

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

01-28-2006, 06:58 PM
You can drop the pan in the car & change the seal without engine removal.I've done it lots because they didn't make a Studebaker that
did not leak or rust out.Make sure the lip on the new rear main seal halves face the motor not the trans. & don't forget the little squares of cork for each side.The main crank bearings have to be loosened to facilitate instalation,them re-torqued to specs
Good-Luck & welcome to Studebakering
PS-don't be surprized if it sweats a bit of oil even with the new seal

01-28-2006, 07:12 PM
before you pull the pan, check the valve cover gaskets, the distributor gasket, and the little rubber line to the oil pressure gauge...

yes you can drop the pan in the car but you may need to remove the center pivot for the steering


55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop

01-28-2006, 11:03 PM
All of N8N's ideas are correct possibilities, but I find the most common is the oil pan rear arch gasket improperly installed or baked hard and badly leaking at rear of pan like a main seal would. You would have to pull the converter housing (or Clutch housing) front cover with engine hot because it requires removing the starter to check to see if, after wiping the the rear main cap dry it leaks or is coming from the (lower) pan arch gasket. And of course you no longer could start the engine to warm it up and make it leak.
This could save you a lot of work :Das you don't have to loosen the main bearings and work the old seal out and install a new one if the pan is the culpert! Rich. :)

Ferndale, WA

01-29-2006, 06:53 AM
Forgot to mention; Studebaker used rubber valve cover gaskets as a service part, I think they are still available. If you have cork you should really replace them with rubber, this way you won't have to buy new gaskets every time you adjust your valves.

If you can't find them, I believe they are made for small block Chevys as well, although you'll have to cut off the tabs for the bolt holes to get them to fit in Stude covers. (unless you have aluminum)


55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop

01-29-2006, 06:37 PM
Just got a set of rubber valve cover gaskets from Chuck Collins in Phoenix--StudebakerParts.com