PDA

View Full Version : steering wheel removal



Kurt
01-24-2006, 03:51 PM
First off, Thanks everyone for the input on the leaky oil pan. I did get the original one dried up and it is now back on the car. My next question is regarding the removal of the steering wheel. The shop manual shows a picture of the removal of a champion wheel, but it seems to call for a different type of puller for the Commander. Also, there does not seem to be any plce for the screw to push on the steering shaft. The horn button is in the way. What am I missing here? I have removed steering wheels before, but this one has me stumped.

Alan
01-24-2006, 03:59 PM
The horn button has to be removed, in the hub you will see very close to the edge of the shaft at the splines there are 2, 1/4" X 28 threaded holes. you have to make a plug for the shaft since it is hollow for the end of the puller to push on.

Kurt
01-24-2006, 06:19 PM
I understand removing the horn button, but I do not see the threaded holes. There are three holes where the horn bar mounts, but they are too small to pull from. Are these holes behind the metal plate? I don't want to pry on it and mess it all up.

Alan
01-24-2006, 07:02 PM
Once you remove the 3 bolts and the horn bar there is a foam ring with 3 plastic spacers. When you remove that you will see that there is a triangle formed by the horn bolts the 2 holes for the puller are about 1/3 up the sides of the triangle.

Dwain G.
01-24-2006, 08:37 PM
You've got a '51? I believe '53 was tthe first year you could use a conventional steering wheel puller. Your car takes a special puller that resembles a bearing separator.........
http://home.comcast.net/~jdwain/steerwhlpull.jpg
In fact I have used a bearing separator and two short pieces of wood, 1" X 2", planed off to fit the steering wheel angle to protect the wheel. Notice in the picture how they pulled the horn wire up and laid it off to the side. In lieu of the correct tools you can set a castle nut, slotted side down, on the steering shaft, with the horn wire tucked up into one of the slots.

Dwain G.

imported_n/a
01-25-2006, 03:12 PM
Many a time out in the wreckin' yard, I've removed a wheel without a real puller. I removed the horn button assembly and loosened the nut holding the wheel up flush to the end of the steering shaft(to protect the threads)then gripped the wheel firmly with both hands 180 degrees apart on the rim,and pulled HARD while an assistant gave the end of the steering shaft good hard tap with a hammer! It rarely fails. A word of caution, though--this may not be prudent with a fragile, old, hard plastic-covered wheel that you find in an antique car.

Kurt
01-25-2006, 03:37 PM
I live in central IL. Is there anyone close to me that I could borrow/rent a puller like the one Dwain shows?

GTtim
01-26-2006, 01:01 AM
If I lived in central Illinois, I'd look up Don Gay. He lives a bit north of Bloomington. He advertises in TW all the time.
Tim K.

DEEPNHOCK
01-26-2006, 06:27 PM
Give me a shout if you can't find a puller locally...
I built one for a 2R10 a few years ago and now it travels as much as I do;)
Jeff[8D]

Now, If I can just get the hinge plate drill jig toolset returned...grrrrrr:(



quote:Originally posted by Kurt

First off, Thanks everyone for the input on the leaky oil pan. I did get the original one dried up and it is now back on the car. My next question is regarding the removal of the steering wheel. The shop manual shows a picture of the removal of a champion wheel, but it seems to call for a different type of puller for the Commander. Also, there does not seem to be any plce for the screw to push on the steering shaft. The horn button is in the way. What am I missing here? I have removed steering wheels before, but this one has me stumped.


DEEPNHOCK at Cox.net
Ocala, FL.
'37 Coupe Express
'37 Coupe Express Trailer
'61 Hawk
http://community.webshots.com/photo/42559113/426827941Lsvfrz
http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock

RHO
02-11-2006, 06:47 PM
Need help! 1955 President. Horn ring off and center 1 5/16" nut off okay. Found the two holes for the puller but cannot use them as they are plugged, broken off metal flush with the top of the holes. Any alternatives or you think I can just press against those plugged holes with a puller and get the wheel off?
I need to get the wheel off to able to replace the gear shift indicator and checkout the turn signal switch and wires for crossfeed.
Thanks.

'55 Commander
'55 President

N8N
02-11-2006, 07:28 PM
At this point I would just drip a little penetrating oil down there and then smack the wheel from behind with your hands and hope it comes off. (put the nut back on loosely just in case it pops loose) I have a feeling you have an issue, but it's worth a try.

Alternately you could try to drill the old puller bolts out in situ, maybe with a left handed drill bit if you can find one, but it takes a good eye and a steady hand not to mork that up with a hand drill. I've done it before a couple of times, I'm proud to say, but I've also screwed stuff up too. (the one time that I really needed it to work it did though; had two busted off bolts in the block of my '55 where someone had used cheap non-hardened bolts to hold the water manifold on. Not one helicoil!)

I believe the thread in those holes for the puller is 1/4" fine, but it may be coarse, not 100% sure...

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

Alan
02-11-2006, 09:10 PM
1/4" 28 NF

RHO
02-11-2006, 10:19 PM
OK, have sprayed Kroil on and will let it soak awhile and try the push from behind. Thanks, we'll see what happens.

'55 Commander
'55 President

Kurt
02-12-2006, 08:32 AM
Thanks again everyone. I ended up making a puller plate from some flat steel stock I had laying around. Then I attached my steering wheel puller to that. It worked well and the wheel is now back onthe car. I am hoping to make a maiden voyage in the old 51 soon!

RHO
02-13-2006, 08:45 PM
Not so OK. Was unable to get the steering wheel off by hitting from behind or while pulling on it whilst hitting the center nut. "Easy outs" did NOT work to turn the imbedded bolts out. We have now drilled what it appears all the way through one side but the other side not through yet. The side dilled through we are able to reinsert a 1/4" bolt into but not the other side. Can we continue drilling out those wheel puller holes or will we hit something like a bearing or anything. Cannot tell what we are drilling into....lookinh at Page 181 of the '55 Chassis parts book and cannot discern we have either type steering wheel configuration, but probably closer to the Type A.
Guess the bottom line question is, can we drill through those wheel puller holes without damaging anything. By the way, we even used a slide hammer repeatedly and made no progress at all.

'55 Commander
'55 President

N8N
02-13-2006, 09:40 PM
'55 speedster should have "type B" steering wheel, A & B are identical once you get to that point anyway. I think that hole is a blind hole, if you drill through you run the risk of hitting the turn signal switch, just put some tape on your drill bit so you can see when you'd be going through the back of the steering wheel (the back is almost flat, so you can eyeball it with the steering wheel on)

I hope that made sense...

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

N8N
02-13-2006, 09:42 PM
BTW when I said type A&B I am looking at page 404 of the 55-58 book.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

RHO
02-13-2006, 11:16 PM
OK, the signal light switch was my major concern and if there might be bearing in there. This steering wheel is tough.

'55 Commander
'55 President

RHO
02-14-2006, 11:54 PM
No activity this evening on the wheel. The Slide Hammer didn't even budge the thing last night. Once I have the two 1/4" puller holes drilled out, I see three avenues:
1. Drill/tap it to 5/16", rethread new bolts in much more loosely this time and try the puller again (will that give me the leverage I need?)
2. Install some sort of toggle-type bolt into the hole and see if that will provide the back leverage needed with the puller.
3. Last desperation move, get my come-along out and put the big pull to it....at this rate I'll have to chock the wheels good or the car will probably move.

'55 Commander
'55 President

RHO
02-17-2006, 10:17 PM
Done! Steering wheel off pretty much intact except for under the circular steel plate where the horn ring mounts and the wheeler puller holes are. We found a small piece of wire (not electrical, but steel wire) about an inch or so long with no idea why it was there and also a single 3/8 nut fell out. It was RUST, just rust holding it on and a trivial amount at that. We retapped the holes and got the puler to work. Under that round steel plate, it's difficult to determine what the configuration is suppose to be. I expected to find three rubber insulators for the horn button but not there. No rubber at all, not even old dried rubber, just some blue color plastic. There are three little metal type pieces of some sort imbedded down into the hollow of the wheel, with one being loose. It does not appear we have a wheel like in the parts book that has the three rubber isolators but then we did not find the "sponge" that is shown in the other wheel diagram in the parts book.

'55 Commander
'55 President