View Full Version : phenolic

01-24-2006, 10:34 AM
does anyone know where i could get a piece of phenolic about an inch thick? i would like to make my own carb spacer and don't know where to start to get a raw piece.

1964 lark daytona

01-24-2006, 12:43 PM
this is gonna sound stupid, but it should work - what about a nice, dense hardwood? wood is a very good insulator, easy to work, and believe it or not you can actually get pre-made wood spacers from Summit, Jeg's et. al. now as people are starting to rediscover this.

Now what you should finish it with, I can't help you - I'd imagine that a regular shellac would be dissolved by fuel fairly quickly.


55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop

01-24-2006, 01:15 PM
Benny, I haven't seen phenolic like that since I left the aviation industry! I'd try a plastics supply house.:)

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

01-24-2006, 01:41 PM
yeh, thats what got me to thinking. we don't use it on ch53's, but the ch46 guys use it all the time. but the thickest stuff they use is 1/4 inch. i guess i could put 3 or 4 pieces together but what would i bound them with? i know i could easily get one from summit, jegs etc, but i think it would be funner and self rewarding to make my own.

1964 lark daytona

01-24-2006, 01:53 PM
Several places already make these..
I saw a cute green one at South Bend last year, but he wanted $55 for it...
Edelbrock makes one:
p/n#8711 $30'ish
Trans-Dapt makes a couple that would work..

quote:Originally posted by benny_64

does anyone know where i could get a piece of phenolic about an inch thick? i would like to make my own carb spacer and don't know where to start to get a raw piece.

1964 lark daytona

Mike Van Veghten
01-24-2006, 02:59 PM
You might save yourself the manufacturing trouble....check out Jegs, Summit or Speedway (some of the other catalog sales guys). I think they have them in their catalogs.

Unless you need a full inch, a 1/2" piece works well to insulate the carburetor.

Remember, any added spacer adds to the plenum volume of your manifold. An open spacer vs. a four hole spacer. That's something to play with also to fine tune your engine.

01-24-2006, 04:13 PM
i know they are available by all the big names, i would just like to have my own.

1964 lark daytona

01-24-2006, 04:22 PM
You may want to ask these guys where they got the 1/2" thick phenolic sheets they used in their router table insert:

I know woodworking supply places carry it, usually only 1/4", though.

1955 1/2 Ton Pickup

01-24-2006, 06:17 PM
http://www.mcmaster.com/ .
Mike M.

01-24-2006, 07:23 PM
At the risk of sounding even more ignorant than usual; I don't understand the idea behind this carb spacer business. How and why is it better? Low rpm improvement or high end? Better milage? Thanks gurus, in advance. Kevin in the Stoogebaker

1963 Champ

01-24-2006, 08:36 PM
On ebay here


Studebaker On The Net http://stude.com
64 GT Hawk
64 R2 4 speed Challenger
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
53 Street rod

01-24-2006, 08:43 PM
a spacer can help you make more power, but more importantly for most Stude owners, it also keeps the linkage of a standard aftermarket AFB from hitting the manifold casting... important if you think you may sell your carb in the future for whatever reason... also can help keep the carb from getting too hot if that is a problem by insulating the carb base from the manifold...


55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop

01-24-2006, 10:38 PM
Thanks for answering my question N8. The water is slightly less muddy. Kevin in the Stoogebaker

1963 Champ

01-25-2006, 11:36 AM
Carb spacers are actually a fairly complex thing. They can increase overall power because they increase plenum volume, but they can also kill bottom and mid range torque if you don't use the right one. There are closed spacers, with a hole for each carb barrel, and open spacers that are just a big open square or oval. Generally, but not always, you would use a closed one on dual plane intakes and an open one on a single plane. Using an open on a dual plane intake lets each runner draw from both sides of the carb. That, in theory, gives you some features of both. There are also sometimes steps built into them to reduce reverse pressure pulses. To get real technical, you are also changing your fuel veolcity and therefore the signal to the carb. That could mean a jet adjustment to get everything right. So there is a lot of technology there and only a dyno can give you the real answer.

A phenolic spacer also acts as an insulator to keep the carb cooler. This gives you a denser fuel charge, which usually means more power.

There are also wedge plates that are used to level the carb to keep the floats at the right angle.

01-25-2006, 01:15 PM
Try item # 8525K118 at http://www.mcmaster.com/
Many others to choose from, just a quick pick on my part.

57 Provincial
58 Transtar
66 Wagonaire

01-25-2006, 02:40 PM
I know Benny doesn't want to do this, but for those that want to space their AFBclone up from the intake manifold, Edelbrock makes a sandwich type spacer that uses alternating layers of gasket material and aluminum sheet. By varying the layers, you can easily get the exact thickness you want. Once you have it, just be careful to spray the inner layers with gasket sealer before you assemble it the last time so you don't have vacuum leaks. I have one of these on my car and recommend it. (Note: The one I used has four throttle bore holes and no plenum.)


MarkC, 64 Y8
Working in Spokane, WA