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tstclr
01-21-2006, 09:45 AM
A previous owner of my 63 Lark 2dr sedan replaced the rockers. I can't tell if they were home made. Also, he welded them to both the front and rear fenders! I assume I am correct in thinking that the rear 1/4's were not welded to anything as they are bolt on, right? Does anyone have a good photo of factory rockers? Do they end at the rear fenders or do the fenders overlap them? The rockers on my car are C shaped, not D like I have seen on other non-studes. Does anyone have pics of a 2dr Lark with the rear fenders removed? The shop manual and parts manual don't really help me.
I hope I haven't confused you all. I can post pics if need be.
Thanks
Todd

63 Lark 2dr Sedan

2R5
01-21-2006, 09:49 AM
You should be able to remove either fender without cutting

tstclr
01-21-2006, 10:54 AM
I know. I removed the front fenders and cut where the p.o welded them to the rockers. Now I need to determine where the rears were welded in. Do the rockers run all the way to the rear wheel wells and the fenders mount above them, or are there integral rockers attached to the fenders? Confused yet? I am!
Todd


63 Lark 2dr Sedan

Jessie J.
01-21-2006, 03:04 PM
The original factory rockers extended the whole length from the rear of the front fender to the rear wheel wells, and were spotwelded to the floorpan at the doorsill along the groove that held the bottom weatherstrip, and to an additional heavy tab further back along the outside of the floorpan.
The removable rear quarter panels were secured at the bottom by a flange that slips over the studs BEHINDthe rocker panels.
Its the rocker panels that actually lap over the quarters, and the studs that when tightened, secure the bottom of the quarter panels.
The removable rear quarters themselves are not welded into place at any point.
With "homemade" rockers about any kind of cobbling together may have been done, so it is difficult to say how or what is incorrect.
But there should be a open seam that extends from your door opening rearward to the leading edge of the rear wheel opening. and it sounds like this seam has been welded up or otherwise filled in on your car.

Swifster
01-21-2006, 03:09 PM
Todd, sending over a picture of my '64's right rocker. The seam between the rocker and quarter panel is clearly visible.

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Tom - Sterling Heights, MI

Ancient Chinese Proverb: "Injection is nice, but I'd rather be blown!"

1964 Studebaker Daytona - Laguna Blue, Original 4-Spd. Car, Power Steering, Disc Brakes, Bucket Seats, Tinted Glass, Climatizer Ventilation System, AM Radio (136,989 Miles)

Jessie J.
01-21-2006, 03:25 PM
Typed the above reply - then ran out to the garage to check my info,:) (got 2 Larks out there right now with the rockers removed, and 2 with them in place)
Anyway, the bottom flange on you quarter panel originally had 3 notches that fit down behind the rocker panel, and was held in place by 3 studs welded to the backside of the rocker panel which pinched it into place between the outside flange of the floorpan and the rocker panel.
Hope the bottom flange of your rear quarter proves to be still intact, then you will be good to go. If not let us know.

tstclr
01-21-2006, 05:01 PM
Geez, it looks like the p.o cobbled things a bit. I'll remove the primer and (in all likelyhood) filler and see what's left of my original rear 1/4s. I know of a set of NOS rear 1/4's so I guess I'll probably be investing in those as well as some proper NOS rockers. I could probably leave things as they are and rework what I have but I know it would bother me after the car is done. So, what started out as a quickie resto on an $800 6 cyl Lark is turning into a more serious undertaking. Since finding all kinds of NOS parts my idea of a rat rod has slowly been tossed out the window! Am I nuts?
[xx(]

Todd

63 Lark 2dr Sedan

Roscomacaw
01-21-2006, 05:13 PM
Not "nuts", Todd - you've just succumbed to Studebakeritis. Take two Studes home and call me in the morning![:0][}:)]:D

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

Swifster
01-21-2006, 08:44 PM
Todd, as you were looking for more power, how about a R2 Super Lark clone? :D

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Tom - Sterling Heights, MI

Ancient Chinese Proverb: "Injection is nice, but I'd rather be blown!"

1964 Studebaker Daytona - Laguna Blue, Original 4-Spd. Car, Power Steering, Disc Brakes, Bucket Seats, Tinted Glass, Climatizer Ventilation System, AM Radio (136,989 Miles)

Jessie J.
01-21-2006, 10:46 PM
Todd, I believe your Lark is becoming a highly desirable Studebaker model, if you restore the body correctly you will never regret it, the exploits of the "Stude Tomato" and others has been causing a dramatic rise in the appreciation of, and in the value of nice '63 Lark 2drs. Or look at it this way, you could make monthly payments totaling over $30k on a new econo-box, and in ten years it might be worth $500, a third of that will give you a Lark that will turn heads, give you one heck of a lot of entertainment value, and actually appreciate in value over the years, as long as you keep it well maintained.

tstclr
01-21-2006, 11:32 PM
I agree Jessie. 5 years ago I had never noticed a 63 Studebaker and now they are getting lots of attention.

Hmm, and R2 clone does sound interesting. It all depends on what my budget will bear ;)

Todd


63 Lark 2dr Sedan

Jessie J.
01-22-2006, 12:34 AM
Even a well built 259 can provide alot of fun, or just a common 289, you can be enjoying driving while you are seeking the parts to make it over into an R-2, If you decide you really 'need' to go that far.
In my case I'm perfectly happy with my 259 o/d, it runs great, sounds great, gets fantastic gas mileage, and doesn't break drivetrain parts. I wouldn't change it out for anything else, not even for the bigger 289 or an R-2.

tstclr
01-23-2006, 09:39 PM
Update:
The rockers look like correct replacements. So far the rear 1/4s look salvagable. I haven't got them off the car yet as most of tonight was spent removing the PILE of bondo used to fill the seam at the bottom of the 1/4 panel. A previous owner brazed the quarter panel to the car in a few spots but they shouldn't be to hard to remove. I'm glad I decided to remove them as there was surface rust forming under all that bondo [xx(]I'm busy for most of the week so it look's like the 1/4 won't be off until the weekend.
Todd


63 Lark 2dr Sedan