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Eman
01-15-2006, 07:15 PM
I'm trying to change out my transmission fluid, but can't see where to take off the torque converter's cover to get to the drain plug. I've taken off two screws that I thought were holding it on, but the cover won't come off. If anyone could point me in the right direction, it would be appreciated.

Also, what should I use to clean off the transmission filter?



1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")
www.bulletshots.net
www.bulletshots.net/blog

N8N
01-15-2006, 08:33 PM
I just use brakleen and a toothbrush on the filter. Dunno about the cover; I haven't dropped mine yet.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

Mike Van Veghten
01-15-2006, 09:12 PM
It's been a while...but I believe there is one on each side up by the edge of the block, near where the pan and block mate.

To get the better part of the oil out of the converter, let it drain over night. And like N8N says, just drain, pull the oil pan, pull the filter, carefully scrub it with a soft bristled wide brush, clean in a pan with laquer thinner, acetone, naptha, (all outside the garage!) or brake clean....untill clean. Reassemble.

That will change as much as you can change (out?), with a rebuild.

Roscomacaw
01-15-2006, 11:27 PM
There's four bolts holding that cover plate in place.

The service manual says to remove the "convertor pressure take-off plug" to allow air into the convertor in order for it to drain adequately.
Pictures show that the aforementioned plug is located in different places given the variant you are working with. Basically, it's a square-headed pipe plug on the left side of the tranny, near where the shift linkage bellcrank is on the crossmember.[:I]

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

Eman
01-16-2006, 08:14 AM
I guess I'll get back up under there today to see if I can find the other two on that cover. It would be a lot easier if I had a lift of about 6 feet, rather than stands of about 18-20 inches[:o)]

1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")
www.bulletshots.net
www.bulletshots.net/blog

Eman
01-16-2006, 10:41 PM
I can't seem to find the right screws to take off to remove the cover. Here's a link to what I'm looking at...
http://www.bulletshots.net/misc/torque.jpg


1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")
www.bulletshots.net
www.bulletshots.net/blog

Roscomacaw
01-17-2006, 02:14 PM
Where you point out the "empty hole", is where one should be and then another on the opposite side in roughly the same place.
Are you sure it's just not STUCK on with years of hardended grease and such???
Even if you tweaked it a bit in getting it off, it's not a super-critical thing that you couldn't hammer back into shape if need be.[}:)] The car would probably drive forever without it![:0][^]

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

Eman
01-17-2006, 03:20 PM
I may just attack it with the pliers and a screwdriver tonight![}:)] My radiator problem put me in a bad mood anyway.



1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")
www.bulletshots.net
www.bulletshots.net/blog

Commander51
01-17-2006, 03:25 PM
My 51 has been without a cover for at least 10 years, in dry and wet climates. If you booger it up, you haven't lost all that much. I suspect many covers have been left on the shop floor over the years...

51 Commander State Sedan

Kittanning, PA

Eman
01-18-2006, 12:05 AM
Ahhh! I found all of the bolts, but now the cover won't come off.

It's like on both sides near the crossmember, there are rubber mounts that have worn a little over the edge of the cover. I tried cutting or scraping it off with a screwdriver (hard to get to up in there), but no luck.

The crossmember kind of gets in the cover's way too. If it wasn't there, I could just drop the cover straight down, but since the crossmember IS there, I can't lower it ANY.

Is there a knack to it I'm missing?



1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")
www.bulletshots.net
www.bulletshots.net/blog

Eman
01-23-2006, 09:51 AM
Finally got the torque converter cover off (it took some bending, but it's fine). Only got one of the air pressure plugs loosened, which may be why it's only taking 6-3/4 quarts rather than the specified 9-1/2? Maybe some of the transmission fluid will spread when the car gets going again and I can add more.



1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")
www.bulletshots.net
www.bulletshots.net/blog

Roscomacaw
01-23-2006, 01:47 PM
Did you measure how many quarts you drained?

Your assumption is correct. You have to run it some for the fluid to fill the torque convertor again.
Run it briefly, (selecting drive for a bit as it runs) then check the fluid level and add as required. Then run and check again. Do this until the oil level stabilizes at the full mark on the dipstick.:D

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

bekglm1
01-28-2006, 12:41 PM
Probably one of the biggest design flaws in the Stude automatic installations is the "air cooled" converter methodology. We have run many a baker wo/ this cover which greatly increases the air flow arount the convert, and frony pump area of the trans. I have also seen guys cut out the front of the cover, and weld expanded metal in the cut out to increase air flow, but keep rocks and other road debri from striking the front of the converter.

Ben

bekglm1@aol.com
SIAR/ Special Interest Autos and Restorations
59 Canadian Lark 2 door 63 full flow 6 cyl 3 OD
59 Silver Hawk 289 4 bbl 3 OD
62 Lark Wagon 335 hp 4 bolt small block GM/built THM 350/Versilles RE w/discs
62 Lark Cruiser 259 auto, TT
62 Daytona 289 4 bbl PS Auto, TT