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benny_64
01-14-2006, 03:44 PM
i am in the middle of swapping my stromberg 2 barrel to a edelbrock 4 barrel. i had an electric pump set up but i have no idea how much psi it pumps. when i tried turning it over it fludded my engine really fast. to where it wouldnt't even crank over. so i pumped out the cylinders and hooked up a mechanical pump and it doesn't seem to get enough fuel now. i haven't got my engine to start at all since the swap and now it think i might not be getting enough spark either. ewven with starter fluid it doesn't even sputter. the whole reason i changed it was because at low rpm's my car could barely idle, after hours of rebuilding the carb and trying to tune it in, no joy, so i swapped to the 4 barrel. is this electrical all along?

slow64
1964 lark daytona
bd_marks@yahoo.com

Stude8
01-14-2006, 04:06 PM
Benny, it sounds like you didn't have the float levels set right at all and the fuel pump just filled everything with gas because the jets wouldn't close when the bowls filled up. Now that you have flooded the cylinders the spark plugs are wet and can't fire. You will have to take them out and dry them off very well. You can try compressed air but I have used a propane torch to burn the tips dry again (do it outside the garage if you have a lot of fuel spilled around the engine). While the plugs are out crank the engine a few revolutions to blow out the wet gas in the cylinders. Once the carb is corrected and the dry (or New) spark plugs are back in it the engine should try to fire up. Stude8

benny_64
01-14-2006, 04:24 PM
i did turn the engine over by hand with all the plugs out but didn't torch the plugs. i set the float level to specs after it flooded bad. i am going to change those plugs though, they looked pretty nasty. but now with the mechanical pump it seems starved for fuel. maybe once it fires up it will get the flow going, i lost a bit of fuel swapping pumps, and might have got too much air in the lines. thanks for the tips.


slow64
1964 lark daytona
bd_marks@yahoo.com

DEEPNHOCK
01-14-2006, 04:42 PM
Benny,
Turn the key on (to start the electric fuel pump) and rap the top of the carb with a screwdriver handle a few times. Probably a stuck float needle.
Betcha....Just betcha...
Jeff[8D]




quote:Originally posted by benny_64

i did turn the engine over by hand with all the plugs out but didn't torch the plugs. i set the float level to specs after it flooded bad. i am going to change those plugs though, they looked pretty nasty. but now with the mechanical pump it seems starved for fuel. maybe once it fires up it will get the flow going, i lost a bit of fuel swapping pumps, and might have got too much air in the lines. thanks for the tips

slow64
1964 lark daytona
bd_marks@yahoo.com

JDP
01-14-2006, 07:23 PM
Might be too much pressure from the electric pump. ( you need to keep it under 5 PSI and some electrics deliver twice that.

Studebaker On The Net http://stude.com
64 GT Hawk
64 R2 4 speed Challenger
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
53 Street rod

DEEPNHOCK
01-14-2006, 07:32 PM
Good point...
Try running the pump for 10 seconds and unplugging it.
If the engine starts and runs ok, then the pump is the problem.
It should run a minute or so on just what is in the carb bowl, without the fuel pump running.
Jeff[8D]


quote:Originally posted by JDP

Might be too much pressure from the electric pump. ( you need to keep it under 5 PSI and some electrics deliver twice that.

Roscomacaw
01-14-2006, 08:01 PM
Is this one of the NEW Edelbrocks or a used one[?] I'm inclined to agree that you may have had TOO much fuel pressure. But one tiny, little piece of trash can hang open the needle-seat assy on a carb and even tho you've got correct pressure and the floats set to spec, that baby's gonna flood big time![xx(]
Do you HAVE in-line fuel filter(s)in place? Best place for one is ahead of the fuel pump.;)

BTW, if you pumped enough to have raw gas in the cylinders, you'd better check the condition of your oil.[}:)] I would anyway.:D



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1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

whacker
01-14-2006, 08:25 PM
You might also try a fuel pressure regulator with your electric pump. They don't cost much and you can set the pressure to about 3 1/2 PSI, which is almost ideal.

Mike Van Veghten
01-14-2006, 08:40 PM
If you look at the Edelbrock information I believe the proper pressure is about 5 or 5-1/2 psi. Much less and the high speed (like passing on the freeway) fuel delivery will suffer.

And yes most pumps will push more thAn 5 psi on 6 volts! So a requlator and outside gauge is almost manditory.

benny_64
01-15-2006, 10:46 AM
i have an inline filter, i definatly did check my oil and it was good. i don't have a pressure regulator though and i think thats my problem. as soon as i turn the key it dumps like a hose into my intake. i cleaned out the carb real good, i don't think its a sticky seat. thanks for the help.

slow64
1964 lark daytona
bd_marks@yahoo.com

Roscomacaw
01-15-2006, 12:38 PM
I agree with Whacker (again[:o)]) 3&1/2 is ideal.;)

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

benny_64
01-15-2006, 03:45 PM
is high pressure alone enough to make fuel spray in like that or is it more likely a combination of other things?

slow64
1964 lark daytona
bd_marks@yahoo.com

JDP
01-15-2006, 05:18 PM
A electric pump could fill the oil pan with gas in a few minutes.

Studebaker On The Net http://stude.com
64 GT Hawk
64 R2 4 speed Challenger
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
53 Street rod

N8N
01-15-2006, 06:48 PM
Also I believe that you can get an "off road" needle and seat that is lightly spring loaded; I second the recommend for a FPR but that might help some too if you have the problem remaining after adding the FPR.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

DEEPNHOCK
01-16-2006, 08:08 AM
If it ends up being an AFB problem.....One of the best things you can do to/for a used AFB is to read up on all the peculiarities of the animal....
Here is an excellent source of info....
(Warning: It is a big PDF file ...40 pages or so)....
But it is a great tuning and service guide.
Jeff[8D]

http://www.arnolt.com/articles/carterafbtuning.pdf






quote:Originally posted by benny_64

i am in the middle of swapping my stromberg 2 barrel to a edelbrock 4 barrel. i had an electric pump set up but i have no idea how much psi it pumps. when i tried turning it over it fludded my engine really fast. to where it wouldnt't even crank over. so i pumped out the cylinders and hooked up a mechanical pump and it doesn't seem to get enough fuel now. i haven't got my engine to start at all since the swap and now it think i might not be getting enough spark either. ewven with starter fluid it doesn't even sputter. the whole reason i changed it was because at low rpm's my car could barely idle, after hours of rebuilding the carb and trying to tune it in, no joy, so i swapped to the 4 barrel. is this electrical all along?

slow64
1964 lark daytona
bd_marks@yahoo.com

N8N
01-16-2006, 07:16 PM
heh, after all these threads on carbs I *STILL* don't have a working carb... rather than rejet my 600 I have been watching a couple 500s on eBay (I actually have two 600s, one real nice, one decent looking, but I think a 500 might go cheaper) but I borrowed an old, small (not sure of size) AFB from JP to verify that I really did have a carb issue. Sure enough I put his carb on and it ran great. But there was no choke. So I scrounged all the parts to put a choke on it from old, ugly carbs, got it working and all hooked up, went for a drive. Everything went well until I got on it... pulled pretty well, and no smoke, but suddenly it won't idle and fuel is dripping out of the driver's side of the carb. So I pull it off again, take it all apart, find some more wasp's nests that I missed before, clean it all up nice and spotless, put new needles and seats in it and a new top gasket, guess what? still won't idle and fuel is running out the driver's side!

Those new Edelbrocks are looking better every day, let me tell you...

I just ran a whole can of that GM top engine cleaner (stuff isn't cheap, $10 a can!) through it, too, and some water as well - I was so sure I had the carb issue under control that I figured I'd clean some of the muck out of the chambers and change the oil... :/

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

benny_64
01-17-2006, 05:02 PM
well the fpr fixxed it. but some fuel leaked through into the crank case, so about 3 oil changes from now i'll be back on the road. thanks guys, benny.

notsoslow64
1964 lark daytona
bd_marks@yahoo.com