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buddymander
01-09-2006, 09:19 AM
I recently purchased a 62 Hawk. I find that the rearend is so wide that most aftermarket wheels won't clear the fenders. I have it figured out to be about 59" face to face. Is there a bolt-in rear that measures 55" to 57"? I thought maybe a Lark? The car is all original so I'm hesitant to drop in a nine. Also wondering how much higher a ratio is out there than a 3:31; like maybe a 2:73. One more question: can I swap an FMX valve body in this Flight-O-Matic to achieve first gear starts? Or is there even an easier way?

Roscomacaw
01-09-2006, 11:51 AM
Lark & Hawk use the same rear axle assembly;)
No, you can't simply bolt in an FMX valve body and have 1st gear start. There ARE 1st gear start valve bodies available for the Flight-o' and you need to change the tranny's governor as well to make them do the 1-2 shift in an acceptable manner.;)
The leggiest rear ratio Stude offered was 3.07. Leggier gears that would fit your type 44 CAN be had - it's just that Studebaker never used them.:D

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

Dick Steinkamp
01-09-2006, 11:58 AM
quote:Originally posted by Mr.Biggs

Lark & Hawk use the same rear axle assembly;)
No, you can't simply bolt in an FMX valve body and have 1st gear start. There ARE 1st gear start valve bodies available for the Flight-o' and you need to change the tranny's governor as well to make them do the 1-2 shift in an acceptable manner.;)
The leggiest rear ratio Stude offered was 3.07. Leggier gears that would fit your type 44 CAN be had - it's just that Studebaker never used them.:D

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS


To add to Mr. Biggs...a Ford 9" won't "drop in". You'll have to have it narrowed to even get down to stock Studebaker dimensions then deal with spring perches, shock mounts, pinion angle, drive shaft length and yokes, service and e-brake hookups.

Wide wheels will fit if most of the offset is to the inside. There is plenty of room between the drum face and spring, but not much between the drum face and fender.

Your current axle is a Dana 44. Very common. 2.73's are available for this axle. (but you may need a carrier change below 2.87).

-Dick-

Alan
01-09-2006, 03:08 PM
The only Ford 9" that will bolt in is out of a 57-59 Ford. Good luck trying to find one. You can bolt aftermarket wheels on your car they have to have at least a 3 3/4" back space for 6" rims and 4 3/4" back spacing for 7" rims. Even then you will be very close to the fender lip, but this will give you a little guide line.

Dick Steinkamp
01-09-2006, 04:26 PM
quote:Originally posted by Alan

The only Ford 9" that will bolt in is out of a 57-59 Ford.


Even then, IIRC, you only get the stock Stude width...not any narrower, and you're still dealing with spring perches, shock mounts, and brake hookups. A 9" (especially Alan's suggestion of a 57-59 Ford) is a fine swap, a strong rear end, makes changing gear ratios easier, but probably not necessary if you're sticking with under 400 HP or so (Mr. Harbit would probably say the Dana 44 is good for a few more than 400 HP:D). Over 400 HP and you're going to want to narrow it anyhow to get some tires under the car that will hold the power.

-Dick-

Alan
01-09-2006, 06:08 PM
Dick, When I said bolt in I mean bolt in. U-bolts, shock bracket. everything. The spring holes are only 1/4"-1/2" off centerline, just move the springs a little. Sometimes you don't have to move them at all. The 2 things that get you are the emergency brake cables which I get from Locar, it is much easier and less time to just buy their stainless steel stuff. The other is the u-joint yoke , there were 3 different sizes and types depending on what car they were on. Back in the old days I had to stay ahead of Currie because he was going around buying everything. But again this was for a 53 or 54 K, I do not know if the Lark and Hawks were diamensionaly the same. I think they are but I have been wrong before and will be the first to admit it.

jjones
01-09-2006, 06:36 PM
If you want to go the wheel route, check www.earlywheel.com, they have about anything you can think of, instructions on how to measure back space,etc., and a reasonably priced, good quality product.

jj

whacker
01-09-2006, 08:49 PM
Ferd Ranger pickup truck rear axle is 51 3/4 wide, and the bolt pattern on the drum brakes is the same as a Stude car, 5 on 4 1/2. Plus, the ranger base model wheels are the ones that look stock for the Stude and mount the full size wheel covers without modification. It also has 9" drum brakes. You will have to weld on new spring perches, and grind off some extra brackets and stuff - it isn't really a bolt on, but real close. Ferd 8 7/8" rear, plenty strong for must applications.

Dick Steinkamp
01-09-2006, 09:16 PM
quote:Originally posted by Alan

Dick, When I said bolt in I mean bolt in. U-bolts, shock bracket. everything.


Cool!![8D]

-Dick-

DEEPNHOCK
01-09-2006, 09:20 PM
Calvin Lowell has one of those '57 Ford 9" 28 spline housings for sale (with axles)...in Jax, FL
His e-mail is: Oldcarfart@aol.com


quote:Originally posted by Alan

The only Ford 9" that will bolt in is out of a 57-59 Ford. Good luck trying to find one. You can bolt aftermarket wheels on your car they have to have at least a 3 3/4" back space for 6" rims and 4 3/4" back spacing for 7" rims. Even then you will be very close to the fender lip, but this will give you a little guide line.

buddymander
01-10-2006, 01:37 AM
ok, I'm starting to figure on narrowing the stock rearend. Do I hafta pull the drums to get the axles out? Will they push in far enough to get the clips off? Then I can see if the splines go far enough to cut a coupla inches off. I just don't wanna pull the drums off the axles if I really can get around it. Don't worry; my buddy's got a lathe, so we'll be sure to get the housing straight. As far as that tranny, my pan is leakin so I'm gonna take it apart and see what I can do with that valve body; maybe call Gil Younger over at TransGo.

Dwain G.
01-10-2006, 01:55 PM
Go to a wrecking yard and check out a Maverick rear-end. They are a couple inches narrower, use the same wheel bolt pattern, are reasonably strong, come with ratios close to what you seek, have flanged axles, compatible brakes, and are pretty much a bolt-in job. I know at least a couple SDC'ers using this rear-end and they are very happy with it.

Dwain G.

dclewallen
01-10-2006, 04:07 PM
I'd have to vote for the Ranger 8.8 Ford rear end. Yes you gotta move the spring perches and with a little enlarging of the lower stock spring/shock mounts its pretty simple. Plus you get more clearence for tires, the same wheel bolt pattern it looks very close to original and the drive shaft will bolt right up. Just my opinion, Good Luck

Darryl C. Lewallen

Jeff_H
01-10-2006, 07:44 PM
I have the 8" ford Maverick rear in my '53 K. The design is like the 9" with the removeable gear carrier, only smaller. The width is appx 1-1/2" narrower than the original rear in my car was (model 27). This is measured on the face of the drums where the rims sets. The spring perches have to be moved if you use this rear. If you run stock stude rims, the rear track will be too narrow (tho it will "fit"). I put in longer studs and 1/2" wheel spacers along with the 6" wide crown vic rims to get my track width back to near stock. I am not running a hot engine or I'd have not done the spacers.

If you are getting a 8.8" from a ranger, I think those are only in the 4x4 models. I have a '87 ranger 4x2 and those have the 7.5" rear. 7.5" ford rears are no good for anything with serious power and will not last. When the turbo thunderbirds in the 80's increased the HP rating from about 150 to 200 between the '86 and '87 models they changed from using the 7.5" to the 8.8". V8 mustangs also use it. Be aware that the 8.8" and the 8" are completely different design. The 8.8" has integral gears and is not a quick swap out if you want a different ratio. You need to dismantle it and dial in the gears, etc.

Jeff

'53 Champion Hardtop

Dwain G.
01-11-2006, 02:05 PM
I was hoping you would jump in Jeff, thank you. Hey, did you get an email from me last week?

Dwain G.

gordr
01-11-2006, 04:05 PM
quote:Originally posted by buddymander

ok, I'm starting to figure on narrowing the stock rearend. Do I hafta pull the drums to get the axles out? Will they push in far enough to get the clips off? Then I can see if the splines go far enough to cut a coupla inches off. I just don't wanna pull the drums off the axles if I really can get around it. Don't worry; my buddy's got a lathe, so we'll be sure to get the housing straight. As far as that tranny, my pan is leakin so I'm gonna take it apart and see what I can do with that valve body; maybe call Gil Younger over at TransGo.


You HAVE to remove the drums, using the proper type of puller, to pull the axles on a Studebaker. Only GM, as far as I know used the C-clip style of axles. I'm less than impressed with the durability of that design.

Shortening the axle sounds like a lot of work and expense to me. I don't think there is enough meat on the inboard end of the axle shafts to cut the splines deeper, so you'd probably have to buy custom axles. If you are going to tub the body and mount really big meats, get a custom-built 9" Ford axle from one of the hotrod vendors. If you want to just up-size a bit on tires, leave the axle alone, and simply play around with wheel offset to fit the larger tires in the existing wheel wells.

I expect you could have custom wheels made for less money than shortening the stock axle.

That's my .02 worth.:D

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

dclewallen
01-11-2006, 04:42 PM
The 8.8 that I used came from a 2-wheel drive 93 model Ranger.

Darryl C. Lewallen

N8N
01-11-2006, 07:28 PM
the Maverick axle sounds like the way to go unless you really need a 9" - just FYI 15x7" MoPar cop car rims will fit (on the front, too, at least on a C-K) and I have 245/60s on my stock 44 rear, you could go wider on the rear tires if you had a narrower axle.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

buddymander
01-11-2006, 09:15 PM
oh I thought the 44 had C-clip axles. Well, cool, I'm gonna start takin the drums off tomorrow and get those axles out and see what the sidegear wear pattern looks like to tell if I have enough spline to be able to just chop off a coupla inches on each side and cut the housing respectively.

buddymander
01-12-2006, 10:32 PM
okay I got the drum/hubs off, but that rent-a -tool is never gonna be the same. How do i get the axles out? I took out the four bolts and the retainers.Tomorrow I'm gonna chain a sledge hammer to them and swing it.

Dick Steinkamp
01-12-2006, 10:45 PM
quote:Originally posted by buddymander

okay I got the drum/hubs off, but that rent-a -tool is never gonna be the same. How do i get the axles out? I took out the four bolts and the retainers.Tomorrow I'm gonna chain a sledge hammer to them and swing it.


Did your rented tool look like this...?

http://stude.com/drum.jpg

If not, you may have ruined the drums.

-Dick-

buddymander
01-12-2006, 10:58 PM
Mine had the three stud mounts stationary, but I had to use a ratchet and beat on the handle with a hammer. I'd Like to remove the drums from the hub and maybe file them a lil bit so i can take the drum off seperately.

buddymander
01-14-2006, 11:08 AM
Well, I got both axles out, and I see that I only have about 1/4 " extra spline to play with; but the axle has enough meat on it to cut another 1 " of spline. I stuck my wheels w/tires up under there and I see I only really need about 1 5/8" altogether, but I'm gonna go for 2 1/2": 1 1/4 on each side. I'll prolly hafta wait til monday to bring the axles to a machine shop to have the splines cut further out, but we can handle the housing.

buddymander
01-16-2006, 10:26 PM
well, I finished welding the housing; took 1 1/4" off each side. I gotta order all six leaf bushings tho, and am looking around for a good used "dividing head". I gotta cut the splines up about another 3/4".

64Avanti
01-18-2006, 12:21 AM
You may want to check the hardness of the spline area you cut off (perhaps in the root) and the hardness of the shaft in the area where you plan to cut new splines.

I don't know if the splines are hardened but they may be and if so you could have problems with the material being too soft in the area where you want to cut the new splines.

David L

buddymander
01-19-2006, 01:07 AM
There is a question of hardness even tho I'm only taking off 1 1/4". Since I haven't been able to find the right spline cutter, I guess I'm just gonna hafta take them to a place like Moser or Strange; whoever is in the Los Angeles area. They can give me the straight scoop on axle hardness and harden them if needed. I 'll receive my spring bushings and axle seals soon, but I forgot about those plastic end spacers; gotta round somma them up.

Alan
01-19-2006, 03:12 PM
Buddy, If you are out in the valley go to Cannon Bros. in North Hollywood. If you are downtown or South go to Tom's in Paramount or if you are around Orange County go to Curries.

buddymander
01-22-2006, 05:44 PM
Okay, I'm about ready to opt for some brand new axles cuz i've been wasting time here locally and not getting anywhere. I thought for sure I could find a machinist somewhere around the South Bay like in Torrance or San Pedro, to simply cut these splines up a little bit further. I don't need to go past the largeer diameter for what little bit I need. Is there an axle specialist around here that can provide new axles and ones that have the lug bolt flanges and a center snout that will center the drum? I was quoted a price of $200 to lengthen the splines but I'm figuring I might as well try to find flanged axles that provide for slip fit drums. Oh and once I get this dilemma solved, I'll get right back on that first gear start thingie.

Dick Steinkamp
01-22-2006, 06:13 PM
quote:Originally posted by buddymander

Okay, I'm about ready to opt for some brand new axles cuz i've been wasting time here locally and not getting anywhere. I thought for sure I could find a machinist somewhere around the South Bay like in Torrance or San Pedro, to simply cut these splines up a little bit further. I don't need to go past the largeer diameter for what little bit I need. Is there an axle specialist around here that can provide new axles and ones that have the lug bolt flanges and a center snout that will center the drum? I was quoted a price of $200 to lengthen the splines but I'm figuring I might as well try to find flanged axles that provide for slip fit drums. Oh and once I get this dilemma solved, I'll get right back on that first gear start thingie.


You might try Phil Harris. He might be able to have a shorter set made up for you.

http://www.fairbornstudebaker.com/

-Dick-

Alan
01-22-2006, 08:04 PM
Phil Harris is a good idea if you want flanged axels. If you are looking around South Bay just for machineing check out Hot Rod City behind Sears on Sepulveda Blvd. or go to Tom's rear ends on Paramont Blvd. in Paramount

buddymander
01-23-2006, 07:15 PM
well, Tom moved to Idaho and the new owners don't do this stuff. Currie doesn't do the 19 spline axle. But I found a guy; Tom Cook up on Telegraph Road, and I'm bringing him the axles tomorrow. One guy checked them and said they weren't all that hard, that they could be cut and not hafta be ground. On a different note, I don't see what all the hoopla is about flanged axles. I used a tiny chisel and cut off the stud material that was splayed holding the drums on and then cleaned up the drums and stud shoulders, and now the drums slip off and on the studs nice and snugly, with about 1/8" of stud shoulder to hold them in place til the wheels are bolted on.

Alan
01-23-2006, 09:17 PM
Goes to show how far I am out of the loop lately seems like all the people I have done business with or for are retireing or dead.

studegary
01-24-2006, 02:37 PM
All of the "hoopla" about the different axle types relates to safety, not the ease of drum removal.

Bunzard
01-24-2006, 08:52 PM
Just searched for a replacement axel for my Daytona and measured a bunch of them. The perfect fit was from a 78 Granada. 52 inches back plate to bp and the spring mounts within 1/4 inch total. The ratio was 2.78 on an 8.8, which is a strong rearend. It is hard to find one taller than 3.20 so it didn't work for me.

I used a unit from a 90 Explorer that came with 3.73 locker-everything else similar except the spring pads had to be R&R about two inches farther apart. Could have had disc brakes but never heard of drum fronts and disc rears so took one with drums. Also was a variety of ratios available in the 3.2X to 4.10 range. The mods took about two shop hours not inclucing R&R of old/new unit.

buddymander
01-25-2006, 07:40 AM
well, my last hope to cut the splines longer on this axle didn't pan out. Guy said they were too hard. Last guy said they were kinda soft. So I cut the axle about ten inches from the spline end and went to my favorite metal supply place and picked up some thick wall tube. Welded everything together; kina tricky tapping in the seals, got it all back together. It had two shims on each side. I needed to use only one shim on one side; I'm just lucky like that when I measure very carefully..... My wire wheels fit perfectly. I still hafta install the gas tank and new brake lines (safety first) and maybe weld up the back of my driveshaft yoke cuz it's leakin tranny fluid. That granada rearend sounds interesting, but what did it measure boltface to boltface? Isn't that an "eight"? It drops out the front, right? There should be plenty of ratios for that, since it's been around since the early sixties. Okay, tomorrow, I should have it road ready and I'm gonna take it out and see if I can break it.

DEEPNHOCK
01-25-2006, 09:42 AM
Good to know when you'll be out on the road..
I'll stay inside;)
You are scaring me[:0]
Jeff[8D]


quote:Originally posted by buddymander

well, my last hope to cut the splines longer on this axle didn't pan out. Guy said they were too hard. Last guy said they were kinda soft. So I cut the axle about ten inches from the spline end and went to my favorite metal supply place and picked up some thick wall tube. Welded everything together; kina tricky tapping in the seals, got it all back together. It had two shims on each side. I needed to use only one shim on one side; I'm just lucky like that when I measure very carefully..... My wire wheels fit perfectly. I still hafta install the gas tank and new brake lines (safety first) and maybe weld up the back of my driveshaft yoke cuz it's leakin tranny fluid. That granada rearend sounds interesting, but what did it measure boltface to boltface? Isn't that an "eight"? It drops out the front, right? There should be plenty of ratios for that, since it's been around since the early sixties. Okay, tomorrow, I should have it road ready and I'm gonna take it out and see if I can break it.

stude freak
01-25-2006, 11:07 AM
Ok. Forgive me if im wrong about this, but i read this as you cut the axles and used a (sleeve) to piece them together?If you did as i percieve dont go far from home . The first time you get on it you gonna be stranded.

imported_n/a
01-25-2006, 11:28 AM
Yow! Spliced and Welded Axle shafts? That is just not a good idea. Why not save on a tow bill, and use one of the feasible rear end swaps that have been suggested here?

N8N
01-25-2006, 11:34 AM
I would definitely paint a straight line down the axle shafts and pull them and inspect after a few miles. Your hack may work, or it may fail catastrophically.

I second the recommend to check with Phil Harris re: getting a set of the new conversion flanged axles made in a shorter, custom length.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

60Lark
01-25-2006, 01:06 PM
WOW [:0] I don't believe what I have just read [?][?]

Studebaker Fever
60 Lark
51 Champion
Phil

buddymander
01-25-2006, 09:11 PM
well, I got it ALMOST all back together today. New brake lines, u-joints, spring eye bolts. I forgot to pick up two four inch long 7/16 fine thread hardeneed bolts to replace the soft ones I put in the front spring eyes for temporary. Ill get those tomorrow and give this baby a run for the money.

n/a
01-26-2006, 02:11 AM
Spliced and welded axles? Poor Choice.

Roscomacaw
01-27-2006, 02:03 PM
[xx(]

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

Alan
01-27-2006, 03:06 PM
Methinks someone is yanking our chains. Just to see the responses.

buddymander
01-27-2006, 10:41 PM
not likely, Alan. I got it all back together. Yesterday I drove it around the block. The 15 X 7 wires with BFG's look awesome.
Nothin broke, so I brought it back in the yard and really put it to the test. Goin forward at about ten mph and dropping it into reverse.
And vice-versa. Til I didn't hafta cross my fingers anymore. It looks like it's gonna hold up just fine. And the best part is that my car is still ALL Studebaker. Next, I'm tearing into that tranny and figure out how to reprogram that valve body to give me a first gear start. I would really appreciate ANY help I could get with that. Looking back, I'm glad I didn't go with a brand X rearend, but I may have been able to get the clearance I needed (not sure) just by cutting off the axle ends the maximum amount allowed by those short splines. And of course cutting the housing the same amount; about 1 1/2" total.

Laemmle
01-27-2006, 11:14 PM
Buddy,

Contact Dave Theibault...he has first start valve bodies...I believe in the 200.00 range.

buddymander
01-28-2006, 12:07 AM
$200 sounds good. I saw one on ebay for $350; I thought that was kinda high. How do I reach this Theibault guy?

studegary
01-28-2006, 03:35 PM
quote:Originally posted by buddymander

$200 sounds good. I saw one on ebay for $350; I thought that was kinda high. How do I reach this Theibault guy?


Refer to the business card ads in the back of any Turning Wheels.

buddymander
01-28-2006, 09:41 PM
I got two computers but I still gotta go out and buy a book? Anybody know how to get ahold of Dave Treibault? I tried 975-897-3158 from a last year's thread but I got a recording. Or has anybody modified these trannies thru valving to accomplish a first gear start?

whacker
01-28-2006, 10:01 PM
buddymander, if you haven't joined the Studebaker Driver's Club yet, you are really missing out. I am not much of a joiner, yet SDC is one membership that I always pay on time. Turning Wheels is the monthly magazine, and it is an award winning publication. A great source of parts and shop tips, as well as meets where you can hang out with people who know more than you do about Studebakers. You can sign up right here at this website today. You want to know about first gear start? That's been discussed several times in Turning Wheels. Maybe you can reinvent the first gear start for us. If you do, the rest of us would like to know about it - put it in Turning Wheels. SDC is one of the few single interest car clubs that accepts modifiers and encourages hot rodders, we also support and encourage stock post-war and prewar, as well as horse drawn. If it says Studebaker (or Pierce-Arrow, or Packard, or Avanti) SDC wants you!

DEEPNHOCK
01-28-2006, 10:03 PM
Good for you!.... Really!
But the real test for your work will be to show up at a Stude International meet and go to the unnofficial drag (unofficial for insurance reasons, of course) and flog the snot out of your creation in front of your peers. A driveway blip means nothing compared to a burnout at a legit drag strip.
Now, THAT will give you shivers...or thrills....and show the world your building prowess...
Jeff (BTDT, and it means everything!) Rice[8D]



quote:Originally posted by buddymander

not likely, Alan. I got it all back together. Yesterday I drove it around the block. The 15 X 7 wires with BFG's look awesome.
Nothin broke, so I brought it back in the yard and really put it to the test. Goin forward at about ten mph and dropping it into reverse.
And vice-versa. Til I didn't hafta cross my fingers anymore. It looks like it's gonna hold up just fine. And the best part is that my car is still ALL Studebaker. Next, I'm tearing into that tranny and figure out how to reprogram that valve body to give me a first gear start. I would really appreciate ANY help I could get with that. Looking back, I'm glad I didn't go with a brand X rearend, but I may have been able to get the clearance I needed (not sure) just by cutting off the axle ends the maximum amount allowed by those short splines. And of course cutting the housing the same amount; about 1 1/2" total.

Laemmle
01-28-2006, 10:13 PM
Dave Thibeault
13 Nick Lane
Maynard, Mass 01754
978-897-3158
or in the late afternoon:
508-393-2493.

buddymander
01-28-2006, 10:14 PM
Studebaker drag racing?!?!?!?! Do they have that around Los Angeles? I'll run that Hawk down the quarter mile, no sweat. But I got a 49 Studie truck that would be more interesting for that, w/ 454 and nine out back and aerostar front suspension. The frame's all done now for the body... but I want this Hawk for my daily driver so that's why I'm on this tranny thing for now? What did you say his new number was??

Laemmle
01-28-2006, 10:16 PM
Buddy, you had the incorrect area code....just posted the correct information for you.
Good luck!

buddymander
01-28-2006, 10:18 PM
oops sorry I missed laemmle's post I didn't notice a page three at first Thanks, I'll call Dave tomorrow.

Alan
01-29-2006, 04:43 PM
Budd, L.A. county raceway in Palmdale runs 1/4 mile and Irwindale raceway runs 1/8 mile every week. But come on out in March for the antique nats at Palmdale there will be a number of us out there.

buddymander
01-29-2006, 09:54 PM
Now that sounds interesting, Alan, and March is getting close. I don't want to miss that. Oh, by the way, I've got the wheels off my 62 Hawk if anybody wants them. I'm not gonna keep them around. Free to whoever can make it to Harbor City, 90710. Two are 15 X 5, one is 15 X 4 1/2 and one is 15 by 6.

buddymander
02-01-2006, 10:16 PM
I talked to Theibault today and he does have the first gear start valve bodues for $295. Very helpful and knowledgeable guy. But I'm a do it yourselfer, and I used to have a tranny shop and I rebuilt a few of those so i figure it shouldn't be too hard to figure it out. We shall see.