What it might be worth ?

[tech100121]

Hello, I am new to the world of Studebakers. I have come upon a 55 president 2dr sedan in fair shape. Its all there, engine runs(took me 4hrs to get it to run),brakes shot,trans will not move car. Body semi straight and trim dented and dinged as expected for a 50 year old. I think body lines are very nice and would like to make an offer on this car but I don't know what a fair starting offer would be and do not want to insult the owner and jeopardize my opportunity at first bid. Any input would help.

[Lark Parker]

Your description "2 door sedan" surprised me. I do not find any listing that Studebaker made one and I've never seen one. Maybe someone else has more complete references. AFAIK the President was only made in the 4 door sedan, 2 door coupes or hardtop.
What does the body tag on the firewall read?
If that has a "C" on the tag it is a posted coupe, if it has a "K" it is a hardtop "coupe".
This can make a good bit of difference in the value.

Dale McPhearson
INDY Chapter
Brickyard Bulletin

[tech100121]

Thanks for responding Dale. There is a plate under the hood with the numbers 6HC5 over 3016. I suspect these # are for options and build #.
I forgot to write down the serial # from the plate on the door. I hope this info helps.

[Lark Parker]

The 6H indicates 1955 President.
C5 is a 5 passenger coupe (not a hardtop) with the Regal and State (fanciest) trim. The numbers are the body number. The serial number will be on a plate on the drivers door forward jamb. Studebaker often use a capital "I" for the number one wnen stamping.

There weren't as many President coupes as there were hardtops. The hardtop is fancier looking but generally not as tight a body structure as the coupe you are considering. I had one of those in coral (pink) and black. It was a good car and very fast for those days.

The transmission condition is kind of important if it's an automatic as most President's were. It is a Detroit Gear DG250.

The value will depend upon the part of the country you are in, the rust, the completeness and condition. I will let others who are better at that than I try to get you in the price ballpark as I always pay too much and sell too cheap.

Try not to get the fever before you buy.

[Dick Steinkamp]

quote:Originally posted by tech100121

Thanks for responding Dale. There is a plate under the hood with the numbers 6HC5 over 3016. I suspect these # are for options and build #.
I forgot to write down the serial # from the plate on the door. I hope this info helps.

Tech,
The 6H on the plate means it's a 1955 President. The C means it is a 5 passenger coupe body and the 5 means "State" (top of the line) trim level. The 3016 is the sequential number of the body shell. It is not the serial number...that would be on the driver's side door post nearest the windshield. If you post that number, we can tell you which of the three Studebaker plants it was produced in.

This is a fairly desireable car. Value will vary widely depending upon condition. Rust is a big factor since it is very expensive and/or time consuming to fix. Typical places for rust would be the cabin floors, trunk floors, rocker panels, lower rear quarters, lower rear of front fenders. Also, trim for these cars is getting hard to find. Even if the trim is beat up a little (Lark Parker might know someone who can straighten it ), it's best if it is all there. Badly pitted pot metal chrome is also bad news since finding replacements can be expensive. New and used mechanical parts (motor transmission, suspension, rear end, brakes, electrical components, etc.) are plentiful and relatively inexpensive. Here's a list of vendors...

http://www.studebakervendors.com/

The Old Cars Price Guide lists the following prices depending on condition...

#6 (parts car)$1160
#5 (restorable-needs everything) $3480
#4 (driveable-needs minor work to be functional) $5800
#3 (very good-typical car show car) $13,050
#2 (near perfect) $20300
#1 (perfect-never driven) $29000

The Old Cars Price Guide is hardly the final word, however. I've found it difficult as a buyer to set the price for the seller. Any chance the seller can tell you what he/she wants for the car?

-Dick-

[studegary]

Based on the limited information available, my guesstimate is $2000 to $3000. Big factors are the extent of rust, condition of the pot metal pieces (particularly the side grilles), condition of transmission (if AT) and location of car.

[Lark Parker]

Dick makes a good point. If you make an offer then you will be negotiating against yourself. Try to have the seller give a price.

If the seller won't give a price, it is possibly because he is afraid he will get gypped.
If you make an offer, he may still think that you are trying to gyp him.
This is especially likely when he does not sell or even give a counter dickering price.
At that point the car may be unbuyable.

It is easier to buy from car knowledgeable people than the prospectors.
The prospectors zero in on the fully restored price and that confirms that the buyers are trying to gyp them out of a rare find.
They have no grasp of restoration costs.

[Lark Parker]

I forgot to mention:

Transmissions on sitting cars are often low on fluid and they won't go for that reason.
The Stude A/T fluid level is checked with the engine running and set to "Drive". Put the bumper against a tree or the seller's body when checking if the brakes don't hold.

The Trans dipstick is under the cover located on the trans hump INSIDE the car.

I believe current thinking is using Mercon Dextron II fluid as the old type A is not available and the new stuff is better anyhow.

The master cylinder access is under the drivers floorboard INSIDE the car.

[tech100121]

I would like to thank everybody for respoding. This gives me an idea where to start my offers. The car has appx 145k best I can tell by the records the owner has shared with me. Someone commeted on the trim if it is any good I would guess. All I can say it's all there and is not missing. I cannot rememeber seeing one of these cars lately to compare aganist this one. I going to make a offer in the next few days, I will be checking the forum till then for more input. I wished I took some pictures to share with all you knowledgeable folks.
Wish me luck I am going in.

[tech100121]

Hey folks just a quick update I offerd $1800.00 and they will get back to me but it looks like I just bought a STUDEBAKER. Plus a added bonus there is a garage full of parts. I will be checking into that before I go any furthur. Oh by the way were in the soggy but beautiful Pacific Northwest.

[stude freak]

Way to go Tech, hope you driving it soon. Welcome to the family.

[60Lark]

Congratulations and Good Luck on closing the deal!
Get ready to be the ceter of attention when you get behind the wheel [:0]

Studebaker Fever
60 Lark
51 Champion
Phil

[Dick Steinkamp]

quote:Originally posted by tech100121

Hey folks just a quick update I offerd $1800.00 and they will get back to me but it looks like I just bought a STUDEBAKER. Plus a added bonus there is a garage full of parts. I will be checking into that before I go any furthur. Oh by the way were in the soggy but beautiful Pacific Northwest.

Congrats, Tech! Post some pics when you get a chance. Sounds like you got a GREAT deal!

If you don't belong already, you will want to join the Studebaker Drivers Club. You'll also want to get involved with your local chapter. Nothing like a local network of Stude fanatics to help you with your project. I'm in Bellingham and belong to the Whatcom County Chapter. Where are you located?

Regards,
-Dick-