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Champion51
12-16-2005, 04:08 PM
Hi:) Have looked everywhere with no luck to try and find an acrylic (plastic) friendly, crimson-red paint to recolour the inside of the horn button. Has anyone had any success in achieving a near match with a particular product? It would have to be a spray on, as I want it show quality. Have got the exterior looking brand new ;) by sanding and polishing. If anyone wants to know how this is done please let me know.:D

Dave D.

Roscomacaw
12-16-2005, 04:58 PM
I've never tried to do this with ANY of the buttons in my collection of horn buttons. ( I have one of every postwar Stude horn button they made and a fair number of prewar ones as well)
What I WILL say is that having held the repro button that SI has had made, you'd be HARD PRESSED to know it wasn't original. While a hundred bucks is pretty steep, it's also a jewel of a horn button. Since that backround color is almost like anodized aluminum, any solid red spray paint you find isn't gonna be an honest match to what it should be.

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

Champion51
12-16-2005, 06:09 PM
Thanks, Mr Biggs. Yes, I had a hard time not buying one in Spokane. It was the steep price that kept my hand off the wallet.

Dave D.

DilloCrafter
12-16-2005, 07:49 PM
As for plastic-friendly spray paints, I know that Krylon makes a line called Fusion, especially for plastic. They have quite a few colors, and I have seen them at Wal-Mart and at Hobby Lobby.

Lowe's carries the American Tradition brand, with a selection of colors in their plastic spray paint line.

Not being familiar with those horn buttons, though, I can't really advise on how (or whether) to finish the back side. Whatever you try, I wish you success.

1955 1/2 Ton Pickup
http://rocketdillo.com/studebaker/misc/images/current_AvaCar.gif

Roscomacaw
12-16-2005, 08:25 PM
Yeah, those once red buttons have faded out to a gold tone over the years.[^]

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

garyash
12-16-2005, 10:07 PM
You can go to a model/hobby shop and find a 1 oz. bottle of Krylon "Short Cuts" paint in "Red Papper" color, #SCB-005. A little of the thinner and you should be able to spray it from a small airbrush or Preval sprayer. It says it's OK for plastics, but I would test it because it does have solvents in it. It is used on plastic models.

If you get a little in the wrong place, use an ice cream stick or tongue depressor sharpened to a chisel edge to scrape away any uwanted paint just before it dries hard.

You may also want to contact Chuck Conway in Sagamore Beach, MA, 508-833-9930. I sent him my M5 button and he had it restored for about half what a repro button cost, including replating. His specialty is emblem restoration and cloisonné, especially Studebaker stuff. See www.ebaystores.com/conwaycollectibles

Gary Ash
Dartmouth, MA
'48 M5
'65 Wagonaire Commander
'63 Wagonaire Standard
www.studegarage.com

Champion51
12-16-2005, 11:09 PM
Thanks Gary, some good info. I have looked at the Fusion line by Krylon but haven't found the right color. The "Short Cuts" stuff may do the trick. Chuck Conway even sounds like a better resource and the best way to go.
Yes, you can paint plastic. I sprayed the exterior of the bullet - and it turned out 100%. I am very pleased, looks absolutely original. First, I lightly sanded the plastic exterior with a #400 automotive paper to give the paint "grab". I then applied a product from NAPA, "plasti-kote" (#470 grey) etching primer. Allowing it to dry, I topcoated with a silver, Motomaster "Near Match". Between coats sanded with a "wet" #600 wet and dry paper. The finish seems to be quite hard and hopefully will weather the bugs and the weather. Although an exterior paint isn't original, it sure took care of the crazing and minor scratches. With the nice lustre, you can't really tell which side of the plastic the paint is on (however a judge might find it if he gets real close. Unfortunately I can't do this trick on the horn button - it has to go on the inside.

Dave D.

Roscomacaw
12-17-2005, 12:01 AM
I "refinish" alot of horn buttons and tail light lenses with a Krylon clear spray that is a UV-protectant. You can find it in some hardware stores and in "craft" stores too.
I give the exterior of the button a good washing with dish detergent - even using a 3M dish scrubbing sponge's scrubby side. Then after dry (and in at least 65degrees F ambient air temp) I spray with a light but wet application of this clear. Man! - what a rejuvenation!
Fact is, I just did an old bakelite radio cabinet with the stuff and you'd think the thing was new!;)

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

Commander51
12-17-2005, 10:53 AM
I refinished my 51 button with Dupli-Color E8800955 Milano Red. Comes in a 5 oz. can at Advance Auto and does a beautiful job. Ironically, I have a Honda DelSol that is that color. I already had a can on hand! If the crest in the center is in good shape, cut a piece of cardboard to plug the indentation and spray away!

DilloCrafter
12-17-2005, 11:34 AM
This has turned into an informative thread on plastic refinishing. I like it!

Mr. Biggs, is that Krylon clear spray an enamel or a polyurethane? It sounds like this Minwax Fast-drying Polyurethane spray that I found to be very good for these purposes. Until then, I had tried various clear enamel sprays, going for the ones with the longer drying times to avoid overspray "dust" that undoes a nice wet clear. Even the Rustoleum clear enamel, with its long drying time, left that dust on everything. But I was really impressed with the Minwax Polyurethane. It went on wet, didn't mind being put on kind of thick, and no overspray dust problems. It is not perfectly clear, though. I noticed a slight "antiquing" effect when I sprayed it on my custom truck horn button.

My truck's horn button was plain black, and had lost any lustre it may have once had. So, I sprayed it with a Sunrise Red Rustoleum (2-4 hr. drying time, it was the best quality spray paint Lowe's had). Then I borrowed an image of a Studebaker "lazy S" and used an image editing program to work over the closest Art Deco font I could find to the way "Studebaker" was printed in the 30's (and was still in use on the hood sides in 50's trucks). Then I used the SuperCal White Letter Decal Kit to produce a white decal, applied it to the painted red horn button, and clear coated it with the Minwax Polyurethane spray. Sorry this was so long-winded, but it may be of interest to someone, and should answer most questions about the photo of my horn button, as seen below. The white decal is made by printing the text in black or a color onto the kit's decal sheet paper, using an ink jet printer. Then, you immediately sprinkle their white powder on the text, before the ink dries. Then, shake off excess powder (it's hard to be sure it's all gone) and use a hobby heat gun to melt the powder. Finally, soak in water and apply like any decal. You can see in the photo that it's tough to get sharp lines, and there is some stray bits of powder that fused on the decal sheet and got transferred. Couldn't win a show, but it beats the heck out of the old faded black button. And I made it to my satisfaction, which is the thing that really counts to me:

http://rocketdillo.com/studebaker/misc/images/CustomHornButton.jpg

By the way, if anyone would like a copy of this unofficial art deco version of the Studebaker logo, I have it in White on Red and in Red on White. Follow the links below to get the 300 dpi 900 pixel wide bitmap images. Note that you are seeing the smaller .gif images, but clicking on them will take you to the large and very slow to load .bmp versions. Or, do a right-click on the image and choose "Save Target As" (NOT "Save Image As" since that will only download the small .gif):

http://rocketdillo.com/studebaker/misc/images/Stude-deco-logo-OnRed.gif
2.3Mb .bmp Right-click and "Save Target As" (http://rocketdillo.com/studebaker/misc/images/Stude-deco-logo-OnRed.bmp)


http://rocketdillo.com/studebaker/misc/images/Stude-deco-logo-OnWhite.gif
2.3Mb .bmp Right-click and "Save Target As" (http://rocketdillo.com/studebaker/misc/images/Stude-deco-logo-OnWhite.bmp)


DilloCrafter

Roscomacaw
12-17-2005, 08:58 PM
Yeah that stuff's a polyurethane spray. I like using it on horn buttons because of it's UV protectant properties. Less likely to fade the button's colors over time.[8D]

Dillo, I think that button's COOL!!! Where do I find this SuperCal stuff??:)

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

DilloCrafter
12-17-2005, 10:29 PM
Thanks, Biggsy! That big red horn button looks even better mounted in the truck steering wheel.

Here's the place I got the SuperCal white letter decal kit from:

http://www.paper-paper.com/Supercal-USA.html

They say these are available "around the world", and say that you can get them at your local hobby store. I didn't try, since they were available online.

1955 1/2 Ton Pickup
http://rocketdillo.com/studebaker/misc/images/current_AvaCar.gif

garyash
12-18-2005, 09:38 PM
So, Dillo, which font did you use? It's close to Broadway, which Studebaker also used, but not quite.

I found "white embossing powder" in the scrapbook section of a local hobby/craft shop. It's supposed to be the right stuff to use for white letters on decals, though I haven't tried it yet.

I've bought decal material from http://www.beldecal.com and http://www.mcgpaper.com, both good places. White lettering is still the toughest thing. Here are some basic instructions if anyone else needs to do it.
http://www.paper-paper.com/WhiteLetter-inst.html
An old toaster oven can replace the heat gun and may not blow the stuff around as much; but, as you say, sharp edges may be tough to obtain .

I've also used Future Floor Finish for protection on top of decals, especially color laser decals. It also helps (on metal or glass parts) to bake a dried decal at 350-400 °F for 5-10 minutes before overcoating. With baking and a coat of Future, I got a decal on a coffee mug to take about 10 dishwasher cycles before it gave up. Future is also great for smoothing acrylic before you paint it - it fills scratches and sanding marks. I learned about this in 1978 while developing technology for early CD-ROM disks (pre-Apple II, pre-IBM PC). I sometimes use laser decal stock and take it to the local Office Max for color printing because I think the laser toner pigments will last longer in sunlight than inkjet-printed decals. The laser toners will not take Krylon or other solvent based coatings, so you have to use a water-based acrylic like Future or the "deluxe decal finishing kit" from http://www.micromark.com.

I used decals to restore the markings on my M5 gauges, speedometer, and odometer.
See http://www.studegarage.com/instruments.htm

Gary Ash
Dartmouth, MA
'48 M5
'65 Wagonaire Commander
'63 Wagonaire Standard
www.studegarage.com

DilloCrafter
12-18-2005, 11:25 PM
Gary,

That's a great page you have regarding re-doing the M series instrument panel. My truck gauge is white on black, so I may have to try my white decal stuff and see if I can get crisp lines. Otherwise, they're just little rectangles, so I can probably cut them from white stick-on vinyl, using a straightedge.

As for the font, I do have Broadway, but I was going after the same font that was used on the truck hoods, on the sides:
http://rocketdillo.com/studebaker/misc/images/trucklogo.jpg
The closest font I could find to that is BritannicEFBold (it came with one of my programs, I guess). I compiled the parts of the custom horn button logo in Macromedia Flash, so I could squish the spaces between the letters, among other things. I had intended to flip the letter "A" Left-to-Right, to get the thick leg on the left side, as Studebaker did - guess I forgot that step. In some ways, Broadway is more like it, but overall, I felt this one was closer. Ideally, I would want to use scans of the nameplate to make my own true "Studebaker" font, but I don't have the tools or talent for that.

PaulDriver
12-19-2005, 02:07 PM
DilloCrafter, I think that particular trim bit is for the '54 3R series trucks only, how many of those trim pieces do you have?

'cause, well, did I ever mention that all of the trim bits, the wipers, the wipers motor, the tailgate, and a few other bits, were lost when Grandad had the truck painted.

The guy did good work, but he was a lousy business man, and the sheriff shut his body shop down. Grandad had a heck of a time getting his truck back from the police, and the box of bright bits and goodies was lost forever.

p.d.

DilloCrafter
12-19-2005, 03:38 PM
PaulDriver,
I actually stole that photo of the "STUDEBAKER" truck trim from a current eBay listing. I didn't know it was used on the 3R (1954), but it's just like the ones on my E series (1955)

I don't have any spares, but if you need some, go check eBay for that listing. I think if you simply search for "Studebaker truck" you'll find it.

If you still need a tailgate, I have seen those on eBay once every couple months (just be sure to get the one that's 48 inches wide, not 51 inches). I've also seen someone making those new.

1955 1/2 Ton Pickup
http://rocketdillo.com/studebaker/misc/images/current_AvaCar.gif

Roscomacaw
12-19-2005, 04:45 PM
Paul,

That's an all-to-often-told tale - the body shop losing stuff!:(:(:(

Is there anything you still need? I may have some of the items you mentioned.;)

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

PaulDriver
12-19-2005, 09:52 PM
I've recovered all of the trim pieces except for the oval studebaker logos and the headlight rings. On a 3R6, the headlight trim are flat circles that are seperate from the parking lights (I do have acceptable parking lights)

Sadly, I need a 49-54 door handle, as some [expletive deleted] broke the drivers side handle off trying to break into the cab (I had tools in there, woulda rather they busted the flat glass).

Dog made a racket, and I came out in time to chase the [expletive deleted] down and ''recover'' the broken handle (he ran off holding it? why?).

p.d.

55s
12-20-2005, 10:13 PM
You can also make your own decals - Get some gummed paper tape, like the kind for boxes. Spray on some clear on the gummed side. Then spray on whatever colour you want, in whatever design. This way, you can practice your design until you get it right. Then, put it in some warm water, and the paper backing slides off just like a decal. I made up the letters for the front of my 55 grille this way.