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Eman
11-30-2005, 02:44 PM
Before I make my first attempt at rebuilding the carburetor, does anyone have any tips on what or what not to do?



1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")
www.bulletshots.net

Roscomacaw
11-30-2005, 03:10 PM
Did you get a proper kit?[:I] Study the illustrations in the kit and familiarize yourself with the parts and gaskets the kit contains.
Clean the carb off before disassembly, using some spray-can carb cleaner. Then disassemble the carb, paying close attention to what goes where as yo do so. Simple things like different lenght screws can give you grief if you don't recall which went where.
A bucket of carb soak cleaner would be nice but it's kind of extreme if you're only gonna redo one carb. I'd say, it's a judgement call once you get the unit apart as to how much you have to worry about cleansing it's innards.[}:)]
I've gotten by with no more than the oforementioned can of spray carb cleaner. Helps if you get a brand that supplies a little nozzle so you can spray into passages to blow out crap.
In putting it back together, follow the instructions for setting up float level and whatever else there is to adjust on a WCD (it's been a long time since I played with a WCD).
The accelerator pump's leather bellows should be oiled a bit (doesn't really matter what sort of oil) and I like to ruffle it out a wee bit so that it fits snugly into it's bore when you assemble it.;)
Be sure to add an in-line fuel filter before you start the car with this freshly rebuilt carb. No sense pumping any crap in the fuel system into that nice, clean unit![:0]:D

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

63Avanti
11-30-2005, 03:20 PM
Agree with the previous, with the following additions.
1. get a FULL kit.
2. get a piece of styrofoam. put each needle, jet, screw in a pattern as you take off. (30 years ago, I took a Rochester apart, and never found got all the pieces back into the carbureator, but it never ran better...)
3. here is a current article, check this out on Google.
<Car Craft January, 2005 Date uncertain How to Carb Tuning
What do Chevroletís dual-quad 409 and Chryslerís 426 Street Hemi have in common? By Matthew King Carter Carb Tuning (Used on early Avantis)>

well worth doing!

rockne10
11-30-2005, 09:50 PM
Work on a clean surface where little tiny steel balls wont roll away and disappear. It may help to lay it out on a large cotton cloth.

Eman
12-01-2005, 01:08 AM
Is there any way to get this piece out? I've tried turning it, pulling it, but nothing works.

http://www.bulletshots.net/myStude/carbDisassembly1/images/IMG_0229.jpg


Also, I don't see this gasket from the thermostat housing (bottom right of image) mentioned in my shop manual. It's not in my rebuild kit either. Is it really necessary? LOL

http://www.bulletshots.net/myStude/carbDisassembly1/images/IMG_0234.jpg



1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")
www.bulletshots.net

TTodd
12-01-2005, 03:27 AM
A large cokie pan is great for dissembly it will keep small parts at bay and take care of any dirt and gas left in the carb. I've also used plastic magnets like you buy in hobby shops to hold small parts.

Tony

61 Lark
61 Lark Cruser VIII

gordr
12-01-2005, 10:03 AM
Eman, I looked at your pics. That piece you speak of is the plunger that operates the power valve (also known as the economizer valve). It has a vacuum piston inside the top cover of the carb that, under normal operating conditions, keeps that plunger retracted against the spring tension. Under low vacuum conditions, like when you have your foot in it, the spring overcomes the lower engine vacuum, and the plunger opens the valve and allows more fuel to flow. Notice that the retaining washer is staked into the top cover of the carb. I've always been able to remove the plunger by simply compressing the spring, and then suddenly releasing the plunger, allowing it to snap against the back side of the washer. Repeat a few times and it will pop out. Clean the piston and it's bore, and re-stake the washer with a hammer and tiny chisel or screwdriver.

I feel the gasket IS important. You can make one yourself by tracing around the perimeter of the choke thermostat on a piece of suitable gasket material. If it leaks air around the perimeter, it won't suck up as much hot air from the manifold heat source, and the choke will remain on longer than is necessary, wasting fuel, and possibly washing oil off the cylinder walls.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

Scott
12-01-2005, 12:04 PM
Don't do it on a table over grass. Somewhere in my old backyard is a nice spring from the carburetor for my 1947 Commander. Too bad they don't sprout new ones in the spring (pun intended).

Roscomacaw
12-01-2005, 12:07 PM
Gord and I are gonna disagree here.:D If that little Economizer valve works freely with your finger, I'd leave it alone.;) If it sticky and the spring can't throw it back when you depress it, then, yeah, it has to be removed.[:I]

I DO agree with him that you ought to have a gasket for the choke housing. Easy as cuttin' out paper dollys![:0][:X]:D

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

60Lark
12-01-2005, 03:03 PM
I use the magnetic parts trays once the small parts are in it they will stay there even if you accidently turn it over, which is not unusual for me. The biggest problem (at least for me with my clumsey arthric fingers), is getting the small parts from the carb to the tray without dropping them.

Studebaker Fever
60 Lark
51 Champion
Phil

stude freak
12-01-2005, 03:33 PM
Eman, i've found that those rubber magnet mats are a great help . if you do drop something it sticks where it can be seen. Cause if you drop anything in
my shop them parts gremlins snatch it up before it hits the floor, and then its gone forever . those are sneaky little devils.

Roscomacaw
12-01-2005, 05:32 PM
Heh... Talk about parts Gremlins![}:)]

I was discing the back property this morning and turned up a 4-bbl manifold![:0] Imagine some archeologist exploring this place in future eons!:D[:o)]

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

stude freak
12-01-2005, 11:33 PM
Hmmm , interesting Mr Biig planting 4 bbl manifolds
hope you have a good crop. Never thought about that way of getting more usable manifolds . lol
im sorry i just couldnt help myself.

Roscomacaw
12-02-2005, 12:09 AM
That's OK!;) My signature line used to be "Studefarming in California" :) Now the prophecy's come full circle. If only I could harvest a full Studebaker![:0]

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

Eman
12-02-2005, 01:17 AM
My carburetor rebuild is going pretty good... Which probably means when I start to put it back together, something bad will happen! The only problem I've run into is not being able to pull the brass looking nozzles out of the 3rd lower housing. I didn't have the tool to unscrew them. So I'm just soaking the unit pretty good then spraying carb cleaner in them. Hope that works.[:p]



1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")
www.bulletshots.net

Roscomacaw
12-02-2005, 12:28 PM
I' bet it'll be great when you're done with it!;)

The brass piece you're talking about, if it's like I envision, a pair of narrow-nosed, needle-nosed pliers (I know - sounds like double talk![B)]) can get in there and unscrew them.;) But still - I think your approach will be adequate.:D

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

Dwain G.
12-02-2005, 01:36 PM
You can still buy Stromberg jet wrenches. They're around $15 now.

Dwain G.

Eman
12-02-2005, 10:19 PM
I just kind of cleaned everything the best I could. But I put the carburetor back in and it worked!

I also rebuilt the fuel pump. I needed a little creative help getting some of the parts out of that too.

I pressed on the gas and no sputtering! In fact, it's kind of the opposite now. She sounds fine if you idle her really high or press on the gas, but she wants to die at regular idle. Starting is still a little problem too. I replaced her plugs with the Autolite 437s (gap at .035") by the way.

Any suggestions?



1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")
www.bulletshots.net

Chicken Hawk
12-02-2005, 10:43 PM
quote:Originally posted by Eman

My carburetor rebuild is going pretty good... Which probably means when I start to put it back together, something bad will happen! The only problem I've run into is not being able to pull the brass looking nozzles out of the 3rd lower housing. I didn't have the tool to unscrew them. So I'm just soaking the unit pretty good then spraying carb cleaner in them. Hope that works.[:p]



1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")
www.bulletshots.net



If you are talking about the jets, I have a tool to remove them and will send it to you if you want. Just be sure I get it back. Let me know if you want it.

Ted

Roscomacaw
12-02-2005, 10:55 PM
The two idle bleed air adjustment screws at the base of the carb - turn them in all the way (Don't tighten them TIGHT!:() Then back them each out about 1 & 1/2turns as a starting point.
The idle adjustment screw (on the throttle) should be in far enought to where it moves the butterflies open a hair with the choke backed off completely. Then reset the choke per the instructions in the kit and try it like that.
You can't adjust the two idle bleed air screws until AFTER you have the engine fully warmed up to where the choke's opened up completely and the thing will run (ever so slowly) with the throttle's idle adjustment screw backed off to where the butterflies aren't open at all.
Once this state is achieved, you can turn the two idle air screws in or out, as required, to get the most even idle. Do one, then the other and then go back to the first one and so forth, until it idles evenly on all 8 cylinders. You'll instinctively hear it when it's right!
Once you've got that achieved, then use the throttle's idle screw to set the idle back up to 800 RPM or so.:D

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

Eman
12-02-2005, 11:06 PM
Ahh, apparently I misread! I didn't tighten them all the way in and then back them out. I just tightened them until I felt a little resistence, then backed them out.[B)]



1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")
www.bulletshots.net

Eman
12-02-2005, 11:11 PM
Thanks for the offer Ted. The carburetor is back together, so i guess I'll leave it be for now and hope a good soaking helped enough! And you're right. It's the tool for the jets. I couldn't think of their proper name. Thanks again.:)


quote:Originally posted by Chicken Hawk


quote:Originally posted by Eman

My carburetor rebuild is going pretty good... Which probably means when I start to put it back together, something bad will happen! The only problem I've run into is not being able to pull the brass looking nozzles out of the 3rd lower housing. I didn't have the tool to unscrew them. So I'm just soaking the unit pretty good then spraying carb cleaner in them. Hope that works.[:p]



1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")
www.bulletshots.net



If you are talking about the jets, I have a tool to remove them and will send it to you if you want. Just be sure I get it back. Let me know if you want it.

Ted


1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")
www.bulletshots.net

Transtar56
12-03-2005, 09:12 AM
My advice,after re-buiding many of those Stomberg WW's, is throw the whole mess in a box and mail it to Dave Thibault in Maynard Mass.
I did once,and its been staight up the best WW Ive ever run.

Roscomacaw
12-03-2005, 11:03 AM
Not that it means much, but in this case, it's not a WW. It should be a WCD. That said, vintage two-barrels are EASY to redo.;) What the average guy CAN'T get from a kit is a re-bushed throttle shaft and a replated bowl that doesn't weep gas. But unless it's an extreme case, this usually isn't really necessary to have a good-working carb.:D

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

DEEPNHOCK
12-03-2005, 12:03 PM
It was a 2bbl when he planted it;)
Jeff[8D]

[quote]Originally posted by Mr.Biggs

Heh... Talk about parts Gremlins!
I was discing the back property this morning and turned up a 4-bbl manifold

Roscomacaw
12-03-2005, 01:32 PM
Yeah, that really DID happen the other day. All I can figure is the manifold had been on a trailer I had sitting out back and it fell off said trailer when I moved it last summer.
The soil here is super-powdery when it's freshly tilled and dry. I can drop a hitch pin when I'm trying to attach some implement to the tractor and then have to sift thru the dirt to find it again. Hell, I lost a short piece of chain like that a couple years ago. It had two cast hooks on it and was about 2 foot long - HEAVY gage chain at that![}:)]
I SAW it fall off the rear of the tractor as I was moving and by the time I stopped, I couldn't tell exactly WHERE it had dropped. I ended up having to get a rake before I was able to locate the lost links!:(

So, anyway - I was discing the other day when I heard a distinct "CLUNK!". I stopped immeadiatly and went around behind the disc. There I spotted the four carb studs sticking up out of the dirt, like a cry for rescue![:0]
It's a WCFB manifold with a big, thick spacer on it! Certainly worth saving tho!:D

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

Eman
12-03-2005, 03:18 PM
I thought I had mentioned it, but the carburetor is a Stromberg AAUVB-26, not a Carter.[8)]



1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")
www.bulletshots.net