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  • Autobody Work

    Hi all,

    I have a some of questions about the autobody work that I'm doing on my 64 Daytona.

    1) We are doing a complete restoration on her. Should we remove all of the old paint? What is the best method to do this with. Chemical?

    2) Once the old paint is removed down to bare metal what is the best way to prime it. Do we need to use etching primer and then primer/surfacer? Wet sand the primer/surfacer using glazzing puddy to fill in any small impurfactions then put on the paint?

    3) There are a few odd spots where there is just some minor surface rust. What is the best way to get rid of that? Sand blast it or grind it away? Once it is down to bare medal should the medal be treated to kill any rust that is hidden to the eye? If it is to be treated what should be used?

    4) Prior to welding in a new patch with a mig welder should the small area around where the welds will be made be sprayed with weld through primer?
    3) Once the old paint is removed down to bare metal what is the best way to prime it. Do we need to use etching primer and then primer/surfacer?

    Thanks

    Steve

  • #2
    1. Yes, remove all the old paint. Have the car media blasted if possible followed by sand on the rusty areas.

    2. Once you have bare metal, put it in an etch prime as soon as possible. You can then do all your bodywork. Follow up with another coat of etch then primer surfacer. Block everything with 220 on a long block, reprime with the surfacer, then paint.

    3. Sand blasting is best. Follow as soon as possible with etch prime. 24hrs max. Sooner if it humid.

    4. definately use a weld through primer on areas that will be sealed up after welding.

    Good luck,
    Sean

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    • #3
      Thanks for the info Sean!

      Steve

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      • #4
        A couple of thoughts for you -

        1 - Don't allow more than four (4) hours before painting after blasting. Thay's "law" for industrial painting where I live. Try to pick a dry day, a humid day won't help you.
        2 - Read the fineprint on the tin - some etch primers have to be re-coated almost immediately (hygroscopic).
        3 - Go for a 2-pack primer, they aren't hygroscopic as a rule.
        4 - Ask a paint manufacturer (agent) for a recommendation re paint system to use. I did, and was told to wash/wipe with a phosphating liguid. That paint job looked great 10 years later, so maybe it was a good recommendation.
        /H

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        • #5
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