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View Full Version : 51 Champion Engine - No Fire in the Hole



Jerry Johnson
10-21-2005, 04:15 PM
I spent several hours this afternoon watching the seller attempt to start the engine I might be interested in buying. It won't start. The engine is mounted in a home made engine stand and thus does not have the normal wiring you would have to hook up if you were just doing an engine swap. It was at this time I realized that after all these years of doing engine swaps, I really don't know exactly the min. wiring requirements to make an engine run.[?] Like do you have to have the generator wired? He does not. Do you have to wire in the Voltage Regulator? He does not. What wiring is needed at the starter, at the distributor, and at the coil?[?] How is the starter, distributor, and coil wiring related to each other?[?] There is spark at the spark plug if you take off a wire and hold it next to the plug, but it seems meager. I would expect a strong spark, which would jump nearly a inch, but you could hardly see the spark at all and you had to hold the wire within about 1/16 of an inch in order to get that. If anyone can help with a min. wiring configuration to make this engine run I would greatly appreciate it.:D

N8N
10-21-2005, 04:36 PM
All you need besides the connections to spin the starter is 6V to the coil. Does he have the polarity correct on the battery? A '51 engine would be positive ground.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

Jerry Johnson
10-21-2005, 04:41 PM
He did not when I got there, but I had brought my 1951 shop manual with me and showed him that it should be Positive Ground so he changed that around.

Six volts to the Plus side of the coil and then the minus side of the coil going to the distributor[?]

quote:Originally posted by N8N

All you need besides the connections to spin the starter is 6V to the coil. Does he have the polarity correct on the battery? A '51 engine would be positive ground.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

Roscomacaw
10-21-2005, 05:41 PM
Since it's Positive ground, the coil's + side should go to the distributor. Reversed connection of the coil's terminals will result in less efficient spark. Weak spark may be because of that or a bad condensor or incorrectly set point gap. Are you using a 6volt coil? Some 12volt coils have internal resistance built in. That would inhibit the spark too. A 1/2 inch spark jump is too much to ask for.

Generator & regulator not necessary to run.

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

rockne10
10-21-2005, 07:55 PM
Also, a good coil will emit a nice blue spark; red, orange, yellow=weak coil.

gordr
10-21-2005, 08:37 PM
Jerry,

Lots of unknowns in this instance. First, I'm agreed with the others that for a test run like this, generator and regulator are irrelevant You don't even need the fan belt hooked up if you are only going to run it a few seconds. If it is set up with a rad and coolant in place, then, yes, connect the fan belt so the water pump can circulate the coolant.

If the seller was mistaken about the polarity of the battery, he may have installed the coil with (-) side to the points. Hooking up a six-volt battery "correctly" would then be "wrong" for that coil.

For the purpose of test-running the engine, I'd just use a 12 volt battery and be done with it. You won't hurt anything as long as you avoid the following: cranking so long the starter overheats, or, leave the the coil connected to 12 volts for a long time without cranking or running.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands