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Stude4x4
10-17-2005, 10:48 PM
Just wondering if anyone has made a set of aluminium connecting rods. Does anyone have any info?
-Jake

-Home of John Studebaker-

Swifster
10-18-2005, 07:20 AM
Aluminum connecting rods are race only unless you plan on frequently tearing down the engine. Aluminum rods stretch with use while steel does not. You can have rods made for anything for a price, but if this is a street application, buy your spares too.

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Tom - Sterling Heights, MI

Ancient Chinese Proverb: "Injection is nice, but I'd rather be blown!"

1964 Studebaker Daytona - Laguna Blue, Original 4-Spd. Car, Power Steering, Disc Brakes, Bucket Seats, Tinted Glass, Climatizer Ventilation System, AM Radio (136,989 Miles)

Mike Van Veghten
10-18-2005, 09:52 AM
At the rpm Stude engines run, the light piston weights....rod stretch will be at worst...minimal. The only concern is the long stroke which has the piston moving fairly fast in the center of it's rotation, then has to slow it down quickly.

On the other side, oil heat...if not kept in check, will cause the big end to do funny things with the bearing.

On the engine I am currently working on, I almost went that way, but here in CA., our summers are frequently over 100 degrees lately...so keeping oil temps. down may be of concern...so rather than "wonder" and watch another gauge....I've gone with a rework of stock rods.

Stay with stock rods, modified stock rods or aftermarket steel rods.

Dan White
10-18-2005, 10:54 AM
Stude stock rods are forged steel and mighty tough stuff. May not be light but will take a lot of abuse.

Dan White
64 R1 GT
64 R2 GT

Stude4x4
10-18-2005, 01:38 PM
Yeah, I think I'll stick with stock rods because of their strength and reliability. I'm just trying to find anyway to keep the weight out of these boat anchors. And, figuring that with a rod weighing less the moment of inertia will be less and not reduce as much power. But for everyday use I'll stick with stock on this one.
-Jake

-Home of John Studebaker-

Mike Van Veghten
10-18-2005, 01:58 PM
Here's what I'm doing.....

No wedge bolt (stud), full floating wrist pin.
Remove lower portion of the bolt boss. It's not doing anything anymore. A 1" diameter end mill puts a nice radius connecting the pin boss to the beam of the rod. Grind to blend.

Don't forget to grind all the flashing from the beam of the rod. Grind, polish, shot peen (steel shot), new fasteners (doesn't save any weight!).

So...
1. Removing stud
2. Shorter than stock wrist pin
3. Straight wall pin (vs. stock tapered wall)
4. Material removal from lower portion of bolt boss

Add to that a forged piston is also good for a few grams. Should add up to a fair amount of weight saved.