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Dingleberry
10-07-2005, 10:23 AM
I converted my Lark over to electric fuel pump recently. I used a Facet pump that runs up to 10 PSI. It seemed to work OK the first few times the car ran then I let the car sit for a week or so and it would not restart. I looked through the carb and there seems to be a puddle of gas sitting in the manifold. The original fuel pump specs read 3.5 to 5 psi so I am thinking that the pump is too strong and overriding the float system and pushing the needle valve back and dumping gas through the carb. I plan to get a 5 psi regulator and see if that fixes it. Have any of you had the same problems and does this prognosis sound accurate? The oil smells a little gassy so I need to change that too.

I have the stock 170 ci with single barrel carb.

Paul Leske
'59 Lark VI

Pat Skelly
10-07-2005, 11:05 AM
Sounds like you got your finger on the problem, too much pressure. By all means, change the oil, before you start or drive the Lark again.

benny_64
10-10-2005, 08:38 PM
sorry this doesn't solve your problem, but i have an electric fuel pump too and i am wondering what you used for a blanking plate when you took out the mechanical pump?


slow64
1964 lark daytona
bd_marks@yahoo.com

Roscomacaw
10-10-2005, 08:47 PM
Too much pressure. Get an inline pressure regulator that's adjustable. Local auto parts store should have one. Set it at 3& 1/2lbs.

The blanking plate should be available from any speed shop. That pump opening was the same shape and hole placement on MANY BrandX engines, including Chevy, I believe.:)

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

Dingleberry
10-10-2005, 09:34 PM
Actually I left the (not so old) mechanical pump on the engine and I just hooked it back up today. I disconnected the electric pump and left it mounted. It is getting cooler out (less risk of vapor lock)now and the $75 they wanted for a pressure regulator was too much for me to stomach today. I found a crimp in the gas line and I fixed that and probably wont need the electric pump anyway. It is much cheaper to buy the pump with the proper psi rating than to have to regulate it. I learned the hard way. Now I have the pump that I can hook back up in 10 minutes if I ever blow the mechanical one on the road. I also found that I have less problems if I dont let the fuel level drop below 1/4 tank.

So if you have too strong a pump it will push gas past your needle and seat and flood the carb. I personally would not use BOTH the mechanical pump and an electric one as some on this forum have done because I am worried that if the diaphragm breaks on the mechanical one then the electric one would push gas through the leak and into the engine.


quote:Originally posted by benny_64

sorry this doesn't solve your problem, but i have an electric fuel pump too and i am wondering what you used for a blanking plate when you took out the mechanical pump?


slow64
1964 lark daytona
bd_marks@yahoo.com


Paul Leske
'59 Lark VI

wayne
10-10-2005, 10:00 PM
I just bought a Airtex pump model e8011 that you can put in line and the mechanical pump will pull right thru it. You could hook up with a push button and just us it when needed!

52hawk
10-11-2005, 09:18 AM
I think this electric pump thing was in the Cooperator [Turning Wheels] within the last 2 years... Something like 3 different types of pump,but one can be used in conjunction with the stock mechanical pump. Mr Biggs- right on the gasket- same as SBC,and the thermostat housing gasket is also the same. The Chevy thermostat can be used in the Stude V-8,if you drill a 1/16 hole in it for venting.

Home of the Almostahawk

len
10-11-2005, 10:35 AM
$75.00 is excessive to pay for a pressure regulator. I have bought several inline regulators at local auto parts stores for less than $10.00.