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studeclunker
09-19-2005, 07:30 PM
I have been contacting shops for rebuilds on my 289. It seems about 4k is avarage. Does anyone in California know of a shop that will do a good job for less? I really don't have that much to spend.[:I]
Otherwise, does anyone want a really nice encloased car trailer?[8D] It's an '04 Interstate with very lo miles. It has 18' X 8'6" interior measurments. In short, a palace fit for any trailer queen. The distance between the wheelwells is 7'. I was thinking of $4500. This will cover the cost of the new motor and transportation. Gotta part with the trailer if I have to spent that much on the engine...[V]

Lotsa Larks!
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
Ron Smith

rockne10
09-19-2005, 08:41 PM
You're probably looking at $1100-1200 for parts. The rest is labor. Have you talked to members of your local SDC Chapter?

Dan White
09-19-2005, 08:49 PM
I know a quality shop in IN that quoted me $2K to $2.5K plus parts.

Dan White
64 R1 GT
64 R2 GT

whacker
09-19-2005, 09:21 PM
I think 4 large is way too much for a rebuild. Are you dealing with someone who has done this before? Or is this some local small block mechanic? You should be able to get this done by an experienced Studebaker mechanic for half that. An inexperienced (with Studes) mechanic will quote everything at top price, just because that is what it takes with those lesser engines. Get the name of that guy that Dan White talked to, and see what he will quote you. Even with shipping both ways and building a wooden crate it would be less than 4 biggies. I suggest you get no less than three quotes from actual Stude people, figure shipping, and go from there. Is there some reason you don't want to rebuild the engine yourself? It isn't as hard as you might think it is. Even with having to purchase tools, it would be less than that quote. Shop around some more!

Stude4x4
09-19-2005, 10:11 PM
I've been around Studebakers ALL my life. I highly prize the Stude V8. What do you want, standard overhaul? What condition is it in and what do you want? I have a complete machine shop where we do everything except cylinder boring. I am in Placerville CA. Call me (530) 622-8719 or (530) 391-8819
Randy

Rosstude
09-19-2005, 10:48 PM
I live in southern California, Riverside. I have done business with a machine shop in town for about 11 years now, and would recommend them to anyone. Good reputation, relatively small, detail orientated shop. There cost is not as low as you may find elsewhere, but the quality is very high, and they stand behind their work. I have not done a Stude engine, but have done 2 SBC, 1 F#rd 390, 1 slant 6 and a Pontiac 350 with them. All cost about $2500 to $2800 with balancing, short block assembled, cam, lifters, springs valve guides, hardened seats, 3 angle valve job, etc, and in the case of the slant 6 minor porting, and milling.
4K seems too high to me.
Let me know if you need contact info.

Ross.
57 Provincial
58 Transtar
66 Wagonaire

Bunzard
09-19-2005, 11:32 PM
A month ago I picked up my 259 from the machine shop ready to install in my '64 Daytona. I bought parts from Phil Harris including crank and cam and a trans adapter. Total bill for balanced completely assembled and painted engine was right at $2300 including parts. I only had to install carb, water pump, starter and generator. Dave has been doing this for 35 years and does all the work himself except cleaning. Crate up an engine and ship it to Cheyenne, WY for about six to seven hundred round trip. Beats 4 biggies plus.

Bunzard
09-19-2005, 11:36 PM
Excuse my senility, I forgot to say we bored the 259 +.030 and the price included all the parts.

bing kunzig
09-20-2005, 10:52 AM
Where in Calif. are you located?

studeclunker
09-21-2005, 04:52 PM
Sometimes it seems I live in Bum Fu## Egypt.[V] I live in Lewiston Ca. There is no local chapter up here. The only ones are located well over a hundred miles away at best. The $4500 price was quoted to me from Studebakers West of Redwood City Ca. I have asked several other shops in this area and owing to the nature of the motor they want the same or only slightly less. All are over 3k. You know, I used to live in Riverside Ca and had a pretty good mechanic who knew Studes. He had trained in the stude dealership. The fellow used to get a real kick working on mine. Oh sigh... And no, I don't want any cheese or crackers with my whine!:(

And Moderator, sorry about the insinuation, the term seems to fit sometimes...[:I]

Lotsa Larks!
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
Ron Smith

studeclunker
09-21-2005, 05:03 PM
Randy,
The motor ran pretty well burning a little oil in the 1&2 cylinders (first two front). It just stopped running one day and we found that the distributor was'nt turning. I pulled it and found nothing wrong. The pin was'nt sheared nor were the gears stripped. I looked into the motor with a torch and could'nt find anything either. It's been sitting in the yard for over a year since. What do I want done? Well, just a rebuild would do. In my humble opinion it probably does'nt need to be bored. I suppose re-honing the cylinders is de'reger. I'm only interested in getting it going again as economically as possible. It was a strong, reliable (at least till it died) motor. The most that I would do is add a 4bbl carb. It should be tanked, what else is needed would have to be assessed when it is torn down. I hope my ramblings have'nt gone on too long...[:I]

Lotsa Larks!
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
Ron Smith

Alan
09-21-2005, 05:31 PM
Take that flashlight and look down the distributor hole again and have some one turn the engine over and see if the cam moves could be the cam gear.

Rosstude
09-21-2005, 06:08 PM
You can fix it!
Sounds like you have a stripped timing gear. A few hundred bucks in parts, a shop manual, and basic hand tools are about it. The only special tool is a puller/ installer for the cam gear and balancer flange, and that can be rented from stude.com, or fabricated, or maybe borrowed if you luck out. I did this job on my nieces Lark (did the same thing as yours) with out the special tool, I recall purchasing the appropriate all thread rod, and using various washers, pipe fittings, to get the job done. At the time it worked, and it still runs! This would cost much less than a rebuild, even if you have to pay a mechanic to do the work. You have the best technical support right here as well. (No, not me)


Ross.
57 Provincial
58 Transtar
66 Wagonaire

rockne10
09-21-2005, 07:11 PM
Sounds like the cam timing gear to me.

laughinlark
09-21-2005, 08:50 PM
Hey Studeclunker
I'm in the same boat as you with no local chapter within hundreds of miles. I live on the coast of No. Calif. I'm here in Eureka. I also think that it is a stripped cam gear. My 59 lark did that one day on the way to work years ago. Driving down the road and it just died! It is a fairly easy fix if you have a manual and few tools. ;)

Gordon

whacker
09-21-2005, 09:29 PM
Those timing gears are made of pressed wood fiber - really just cardboard. I see them on ebay now and then for about $50.00 or so, but the really good ones are the aluminum Avanti style ones for about $120.00 or so. It really isn't a bad job to replace one, if you have the tools and shop manual and a free day, you should be able to do it yourself. It would be a lot cheaper, easier, and faster than a complete rebuild. If you don't have the manual, you should buy one anyway just to have. You could probably get someone to scan and send the appropriate pages if you are really hard up! Plan it for this weekend and you could be driving your Stude next monday!

rockne10
09-21-2005, 10:25 PM
Cam gear is celeron fiber, crank gear is steel. While they're accessible I'd replace them both. Sometimes a deteriorated crank gear will chew up the fiber cam gear. May or my not be the case but, while your in the neighborhood...

Stude4x4
09-22-2005, 04:31 PM
Hey Ron. I agree with everyone else. I'll bet it is your cam gear. The cam gear went out on my lark several years back and then just last year on my R2 Avanti. I am currently in the process of replacing the one in my Avanti. I am assuming this engine is in a Lark or...? You won't have to pull the engine to do it. I know its about $100 more but I would definitely go with the Aluminium timing gear. I wouldn't rebuild the engine unless you have never rebuilt it and would like to. It doesn't sound necessary.
-Randy

studeclunker
09-22-2005, 08:40 PM
Food for thought. I'll look into it. The motor is out of the Champ so this should be fairly easy. I'll let you know what I find.

By the way, thanks again for all the ideas and help. I've been feeling rather down lately (squashed really) and this forum has been a blessing.

Lotsa Larks!
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
Ron Smith