Speedster Restoration Questions

[sasjdw]

I've got a Speedster that I am having repainted. I removed the rear quarter panels and there is a small (about 12") piece of stainless (?) that fills the gap between the qtr. panel and the car body. This piece is immediately behind the door and next to the rear qtr. window. It's purpose appears to be to simply hide the gap. My question is: Is this piece supposed to be painted the body color or should it be polished like the rest of the stainless trim?

Also, the rear quarter windows slide inside a 'cover' that is nestled up inside the rear roof pillar and appears to guide the window as i moves up and down. This 'cover' is lined with a thin felt-like material. The felt-like material has come unglued and torn over time and needs to be replaced. Is there a source for these rebuilt 'covers'? or Do I need to take these things apart and glue new material inside? Where can I get this thin felt-like material? Anyone done this repair and like to offer some tips?

Thanks in advance,

Jim W.

James D. Wilkerson

[Alan]

You say quarter pannels? do you mean fenders? is the piece 1/2 tear drop shaped and at an angle with some rubber around the edges? On the felt it sits in a stainless holder that is glued in and crimped around the edges. To get to it you have to remove the the window, not a fun job.

[studegary]

I think that he is referring to the small T-shaped piece of metal that goes on C/K bodies between the quarter panel and the body. This piece is steel, not stainless steel. It should be painted body color.
There is also the chrome piece that mates the long rear quarter stainless topper with the halo piece. I don't believe that this is what he is referring to. I also don't think that he means the stainless right at the window itself.

[Alan]

Then what does he mean?

[Jeff_H]

If your rear window guides/channels need re-"felting", you are in for a job! The entire window mechanism has to be removed. Probably have to take out the rear seats, both bottoms and back first for better access and get the upholstered panels off along with the armrests for starters. The window and crank mechanism comes out with lots of bad lanquage and then you can think about pulling out those liners. There are several screws to hold it in. They are large sheetmetal housings with the felt lining. I drilled out the rivets on mine to separate the 2 halves and then carefully lifted the crimped edge a hair with a thin putty knife. You can only do this once the halves are apart. I found some "velvet" material at a cloth store similar to the original stuff and glued that in after removing the old stuff and cleaning the metal. You then cut the edge with a hobby knife just right and tuck it under your opened crimp. Use a wide pliers with taped jaws to recrimp.

Putting the liners back in is the easy part. Getting the window guts back in AND adjusted so they work w/o binding up or not closing correctly is a real pain. Look at spending several hours at just adjustment alone.

Get a shop manual and parts book and study the phantom and exploded drawings before you start!

Good luck!

Jeff

'53 Champion Hardtop

[studeclunker]

If you're talking about "cat whiskers", the felt guides in the bottom of the window opening, they are available in the catalog from Studebaker International (317-462-3124). Wheather they have them for your particular model I don't know. You might also try S.A.S.CO at; 800-722-4295. Best to let the fingers do the walking first etc...

Lotsa Larks!
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
Ron Smith

[55s]

U-shaped Window channel can be bought from several vendors. A cheap replacement for the felt only is the soft felt side of Velcro, available by the foot.

Paul

[sasjdw]

I want to Thank everyone that responded to my question. This is exactly what I needed. The short piece of trim is that "T" shaped piece that is sandwiched between the rear fender and the body - right next to the rear qtr window. And Thanks for the tip on recovering those 'sleeves' or 'covers' for the rear 1/4 windows - I'll have to drill out the rivets and separate the two halves. Doesn't sound too bad.



James D. Wilkerson

[Roscomacaw]

Painted body color!

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

[studegary]

[quote]Originally posted by Mr.Biggs

Painted body color!

Bob/MrBiggs - We agree again. I stated this last week on this topic, but others kind of got off on the wrong parts. <G>

[sasjdw]

A related question to this topic:

Are the door latch mechanisms that attach to the end of the doors supposed to be body color or just bare metal or cad coated, etc.?

What color should the striker plate assembly be on the door frame?

All of this is body color on my Speedster, but it has been repainted.

TIA

James D. Wilkerson

[Roscomacaw]

body color.

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

[sasjdw]

Does anyone know what type of wire was used in the 1955 Speedsters? Was the original wire harness fabric covered, vinyl/plastic coated, or a combination? I know that there are both types in my Speedster, but I just assumed someone had rewired it with plastic covered wire at some point in the past. However, a discussion with Rhode Island Wiring (that produces original fabric covered harnesses) indicates the Studebaker blueprints call for plastic coated (at least for the Dash,Engine and Headlight harness). I'd like to go back to original, but now I don't know what original was!?

Thanks in advance,

Jim W.

James D. Wilkerson

[JDP]

I think 55 was the year they made the change, late models had plastic.

Studebaker On The Net http://stude.com
64 GT Hawk
64 R2 4 speed Challenger
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
53 Street rod

[studegary]

Contact the Thoms Brothers at Studebaker West for wiring questions and to order your replacement wiring harness. They are good people and manufacture replacement Studebaker wiring harnesses.