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BUNOSS
09-13-2005, 02:04 PM
I have a 1950 Champion with a fairly new radiator. As with most Studebakers I have owned,it tends to run a little on the "hot side" tho not totally 'pegged' to the right side of the guage. It also tends to use water/coolant after a few hours of running(about half to a quart usually). It doesn't leak when the motor is off or sitting around for long periods. Should I be using a 'pressurized" cap(think it has a spec of about four pounds)? Was it optional(vs. non-pressurized)? Would it make a difference in the perfomace(temperature,coolant loss) all other factors unchanged?

Sonny
09-13-2005, 03:53 PM
quote:Originally posted by BUNOSS

I have a 1950 Champion with a fairly new radiator. As with most Studebakers I have owned,it tends to run a little on the "hot side" tho not totally 'pegged' to the right side of the guage. It also tends to use water/coolant after a few hours of running(about half to a quart usually). It doesn't leak when the motor is off or sitting around for long periods. Should I be using a 'pressurized" cap(think it has a spec of about four pounds)? Was it optional(vs. non-pressurized)? Would it make a difference in the perfomace(temperature,coolant loss) all other factors unchanged?


This is a problem that a lot of Studebaker folks have faced. First, I always recommend that a fella gets a candy/meat thermometer and makes sure that the gauge in the car is really correct. If it's not, you'll know where to "interpolate" the real temperature.

As far as pressurized, the '50 Champion was unpressurized, but, running a 4 pound cap will not hurt a thing. In fact, I run one on mine. It will raise the boiling temp. a few degrees and it won't over-pressurize or over-tax the system.

Lastly, I discovered, (actually my '50 Champion taught me), that you have to maintain an expansion space in the top radiator tank or it will run hot and overheat! Yep, I wasn't smart enough to figure out that it was pukeing out the coolant for a reason. I'd fill it cold, take it out and every time it would slobber all over until it reached the coolant level that it liked in the top tank, (I finally said the hell with trying to keep it full and never had another problem with it.)! Heck, if you feel so inclined, you can even put an overflow tank on, it can't hurt.

Anyway, it sounds like your Champion is running pretty normal, it's certainly not any reason for alarm. I would try to make it as "vapor lock proof" as I could. It seems that even when it's running normally, something like parade duty can frail it pretty quickly....

Sonny
http://RacingStudebakers.com

curt
09-13-2005, 08:04 PM
The top of the tank may well be a space for vapor to condense as the liquid/water is pumped from the engine to the radiator. I have a 1937 Chevrolet owners manual and it states the top of the radiator is to condense vapors and designed not to have liquid in the top most area of the radiator.

hank63
09-14-2005, 11:31 PM
You need a bit of space to allow for heat expansion. Everything expands when heated up. The coolant goes from ambient to near boiling and therefore takes up more space when hot. If your rad is full to start with, the volume increase has to go out, either spilling on the ground or into an over-flow bottle.
/H

Transtar56
09-15-2005, 11:22 AM
Bunoss,I hope your just over filling the system.
I had to learn the same way Sonny did with my Lark.Id make sure the rad was full,then the first stop after the engine was hot there would be a big green puddle under the engine.
If its NOT going out the overflow,and your losing that much coolant,you may have a lot worse problems,cause then it can only be going out the tail pipe.If this situation gets worse(as it invarably does),you'll see plumes of white smoke coming out the exhaust which means you have a bad head gasket,or an internal crack.
Did the engine ever have a "hot supper" (get severly overheated?

N8N
09-15-2005, 06:30 PM
I have "discovered" that some earlier studes used a 160 degree thermostat from the factory and the temperature gauges are calibrated for same. My '55 had a 170 degree thermostat when I got it and it ran about 3/4 up the acceptable range. It now has a 180 stat and runs almost to the top of the acceptable range. Yes I "shot" the upper tank and water outlet with my infrared thermometer after a good drive and it was running just about 180 degrees.

nate

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55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop
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