View Full Version : Disk Brake Kits

09-10-2005, 07:54 PM
I am planning on converting my '64 Daytona to front disk brakes. It does not have a power booster. I was considering the Turner kit, which I have used in the past (with a booster) but I am concerned that I will need to install a booster, as the Turner site recommends. The SteelTech site shows an 11" kit and claims that a booster is not required. Has anyone BTDT? Anyone running disks without a booster? Master cylinder bore size? Any suggestions or comments?

09-10-2005, 09:31 PM
I'm using a Turner kit installed in 1998 on my '63 Cruiser. It has accumulated over 60,000 miles and has had the pads replaced one time. I do not have power brakes and do not fell that I need them. The car will stop very very quickly.

Mike Van Veghten
09-10-2005, 11:17 PM

The difference between the kits are the mounting brackets.
The rotor, the caliper, pads, lines are the same in the two kits. The main difference is the caliper bracket. The Turner bracket is a nicely done but very heavy item. The Dave L. (AKA Steeltech) bracket is kinda crude, but plenty effective. A little finishing work, repaint.... Both kits have all required to install the brakes. The Turner kit has an upgrade of steel braded line for the hose. Nice touch.
I ended up selling my Turner kit and both my 59 Lark and 54 Conestoga have the 11" Dave L. (AKA Steeltech) kit. I don't like all the added weight way out there on the spindle. It makes the shocks and springs have to work harder to control the wheel movement.

As for your question about adding a power unit of some kind.
Two of my three Studes, with Stude front ends, "neither"....has a power unit.

The Lark has a GM dual chamber (1-1/16" dia. piston I believe) that Turner reqemends.

My Conestoga has a Wilwood dual chamber with a smaller 1" diameter piston. An 80 year old lady could stop that thing on a dime. It has a better pedal feel and stock type pedal travel.

The GM unit has reasonably good feel and slightly less pedal travel than stock.

Either kit WILL work fine without a power adder with the right master cylinder. Just stay with a 1" to 1-1/16" piston size, you'll be fine.
Any brand will work, Ford, GM, Chrysler, aftermarket.
As a side note....I did have to make my own MC bracket with the Wilwood cylinder. And that's fine, cuze they work exellent.

Have fun.


09-11-2005, 02:19 PM
I to have the Turner kit on my 53 Starliner. It does not have power brakes and I really don't think it needs to. Stops great with little effort.

Darryl C. Lewallen

09-13-2005, 03:40 PM
Is this Turner conversion kit that I hear so much about, something that someone with good general mechanic skills can do on their own? I'm no expert by any means, but I am confident with basic tools and procedures. Thanks.

Jim's pride....
1963 Daytona Convertible

09-13-2005, 05:00 PM
Yes, the Turner kit can be installed in a few hours by anyone with reasonably good mechanical skills. The kit is complete and includes good instructions. As a matter of fact, if you go to
you can look at the installation instructions to judge whether the procedure is within your abilities. The only other consideration is that you would need to modify or replace your master cylinder. I would suggest that you change to a split system while you are making the change to disks. There are a number of master cylinders from disk/drum applications that can be used. I seem to recall that some 70s vintage Mopar M/Cs or some Jeep M/Cs work. Maybe someone can provide more specific information on exact models. Anyone?

Jim Bradley

Dan White
09-13-2005, 05:13 PM
There are two sources for the Studebaker disk brake kits, Turner and Steeltech Solutions, both are equally good, with pluses and minuses for both but both work well as noted in this thread. Both guys are SDC members.

However a word of warning before you get carried away with the split or dual master cylinder conversion. IF YOU ARE USING A HYDROVAC POWER BRAKE UNIT, you have three choices: 1) remove it and go to manual disk/drum brakes, or 2) stay with the single master cylinder setup as it is. 3) use two hydrovac systems one for the front and one for the back (I am not aware that anyone has tried this). A few folks over the last several months have learned the hard way that the Hydrovac system, as it is implemented on Studebakers and other cars of its vintage, cannot be used with a dual master cylinder period. Jim Turner should warn those that are going this route of the potential issues involved.

I am using the Steeltech setup and a Hydrovac power unit and it works just fine.

Dan White
64 R1 GT
64 R2 GT

09-13-2005, 06:48 PM

An important point in this discussion is the difference in the master cylinders and boosters used on the GT Hawk compared to those used in the cowl mounted applications on Lark-types like PalmerGA's '63 Daytona. I think that the firewall mounted units, with or without a booster, can be converted to a split system with a lot less effort than would be required on the GT with the underfloor M/C and the Hydrovac.

Jim Bradley

Dan White
09-13-2005, 07:42 PM
Rerun good point. The firewall mounted units used on the Avantis and Larks are not Hydrovacs and thus can be updated with a split unit easily (relatively). The Hawks and older Studes that did not have power brakes, AKA Hydrovac are also candidates for the split MC conversion.

Dan White
64 R1 GT
64 R2 GT