View Full Version : Front Wheel Cylinders - Part #? Brake drums off

09-07-2005, 01:18 PM
I'm doing the full-on brake job now. I'd like to know if anyone
knows a Raybestos/Wagner part number for the front wheel cylinders
for the 1950-53 Champions. That's a Studebaker part number
525208. They are 1" diameter cylinders. The rear cylinders,
Stude part number 197120, are replaced with Raybestos WC4876,
which I got for quite cheap from Rock Auto.
What's the part number for the front cylinders?

I finally pulled the rear drums off the car. It wasn't hard once I applied
the correct tools. I had the usual drum puller most people seem to have
nowadays, and I used four legs on it for the four-stud pattern.
Attach the legs with the lug nuts, then tighten down the center bolt,
(put the axle nut onto the axle end, backwards, to retain the drum
on there when it flies off...)
making sure the legs are flush to the drum and pulling equally
straight on the studs. Apply moderate torque to the center bolt
with a half-inch ratchet, holding the drum steady with a large bar
between the legs, braced to the ground. Using an oxy-acetylene
torch, head the center of the drum (the hub portion) until it's
glowing good and cherry red. Quench and soak the hub, keyway,
axle shaft with (non-flammable) penetrating oil. Stinky.
Finish the beverage of choice to allow some penetration for a minute,
but don't let the hub cool down much. Apply the half-inch ratchet
with a long cheater bar -- about four feet of steel pipe did it.
Brace drum again with the bar between the legs. Tighten, tighten,
tighten the center screw -- no hammering, just steadily
increasing torque. Large *wham*. Bingo. Allow to cool --
everything is hot. Probably I could have accomplished this with
only a plumbing torch, but it might have taken a couple of cannisters
of gas to do it. The real key is just steady, high torque
with a big-a$$ wrench with a cheater pipe on the center screw of the
puller, and having something to brace the drum so it doesn't spin.

09-07-2005, 01:51 PM
Just did my brakes from top to bottom and all parts were from local Bumper to Bumper. I have the part numbers on my database at home if you should need them.

Buddy...'54 Champion 2dr

09-07-2005, 03:17 PM
Brakes are such fun on a Stude, arent they?:D Have you checked the part number in your manuals? Unlike most classic cars we have the advantage of suppliers that serve our unique needs.[8D] Would'nt it be wiser to order your wheel cylinders from people who know what a Studebaker is?[:I] Someone like SASCO or Studebaker International etc...
I don't mean to sound like a smart aleck or to be mean. It's easier to go to the local store.;) Besides our society is currently built on instant gratification. Who wants to wait for the U.S.Snail now days? That said; The local store is a source of frustration for studebaker owners on a regular basis.[}:)] First one has to get past the argument that Stude was'nt a subsidiary of Ford or Chevy...:(

Lotsa Larks!
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
Ron Smith

09-07-2005, 05:31 PM
part numbers here:


if you find any good numbers I haven't listed please email me. (like for your application! I only have nos. listed for 54-up at this time, simply because I don't have parts books/interchange info older than that.)



55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop

09-07-2005, 06:37 PM
My old NAPA brake parts book shows their house brand (United) number being 7379 for left and right. Rears are United number 4876;)

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

09-09-2005, 10:18 PM
I have never found it nessessary to heat the drums. Just a lot of leverage, an extensive vocabulary, and a BFH.