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Tom B
08-28-2005, 03:00 PM
After a drive yesterday in Ohio's 70's temperature, with the temp gage near the top, I reread the Co-Operator's article on replacement water pumps:

I've been concerned about the lack of control my thermostat had on my cooling system, replaced it a couple of times, had the radiator recored, then read the article and got suspicious. I pulled the fan off, and the hub is fully machined, .224 thick. I got a mirror and looked at the numbers stamped in the iron, 5/16 tall, not the numbers mentioned in the article, but 1161, an L in an octagon, and a 3. This is enough to make me pull the pump off.

Before I measured the impellers I measured the cavity in the manifold, it varies between .962 and 1.020. Then I measured the height of the impellers, they vary between .848 and .870. That gives a maximum clearance of .174 and a minimum clearnce of .092, not .020. The impellers are cast, not machined at all.

Last but not least, the inner end of the shaft is stamped, among numbers, SLOVAKIA. I'm calling SASCO tomorrow and ordering one of their Heavy Duty pumps, after determining that it doesn't say SLOVAKIA on it. I guess I can keep the old one for a spare if I ever need one.

Tom Bredehoft
'53 Commander Coupe
'60 Lark VI

Tom B
08-29-2005, 03:21 PM
OK you guys, I've ordered a 63-64 water pump from SASCO. They assured me it was machined on the diameter and the edge of the vanes, but the surfaces of the vanes themselves are as-cast, rough. They also said it probably woulnd't help with overheating, but I can't stand the thought of a Slovakian water pump in my Commander. Here's my question.

Should I polish the vanes? like porting behind a valve? Will a smooth surface drive water better than a rough one, or will the rough be more effective. All you mechanics and engineers jump on this.

Tom Bredehoft
'53 Commander Coupe
'60 Lark VI

DEEPNHOCK
08-29-2005, 03:55 PM
This may be redundant if you have already done this, but......
Before I would spend tome polishing the water pump impellers, I would invest that time in removing all the freeze plugs and the drain plugs and cleaning the crap (literally) out of the cooling chambers in the block, especially at the rear of the block.
A cruddy, messy job, but one that will make a bigger difference, cooling wise, than running more water through a cruddy system.

As a side note, i like to drill a couple of 1/8" holes in my thermostats, just to let air bubbles through.
Hope the info helps.
Jeff[8D]


quote:Originally posted by Tom B

OK you guys, I've ordered a 63-64 water pump from SASCO. They assured me it was machined on the diameter and the edge of the vanes, but the surfaces of the vanes themselves are as-cast, rough. They also said it probably woulnd't help with overheating, but I can't stand the thought of a Slovakian water pump in my Commander. Here's my question.

Should I polish the vanes? like porting behind a valve? Will a smooth surface drive water better than a rough one, or will the rough be more effective. All you mechanics and engineers jump on this.

Tom Bredehoft
'53 Commander Coupe
'60 Lark VI



DEEPNHOCK at Cox.net
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gordr
08-29-2005, 05:39 PM
Probably not the entire water pump is made in Slovakia. The shaft is part of the water pump bearing assembly, which is comprised of the shaft(with ball races ground into it), the balls, the grease, the seals, and the outer race, which is pressed into the pump housing. The mechanical seal for the the water is separate part. I have rebuilt my own Stude V8 pumps, buying the bearing at a bearing supply house and the (pricey) mechanical seal at a pump/motor supply house. The same bearing fits McKinnon engines, too.

I daresay that bearing factory in Slovakia has been around for a long time. Check out some old Luftwaffe purchase orders.;)

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands