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benny_64
07-21-2005, 09:56 PM
whats the differance between R2,R3 and so on cams. can i throw in a r2 cam with the stock stall converter in my lark. i have a 64 lark with a 259 and a 2 speed auto. and wheres a good place to find a bigger cam?

slow64
1964 lark daytona
bd_marks@yahoo.com

Alan
07-21-2005, 10:36 PM
Do not waste your time and money on a bigger cam if you are not going to race your car, all it will do is up your HP and torque band above where you use it your gas millage will torpedo, your vacuum will drop, your power will drop putting around town. dumb,dumb.

Roscomacaw
07-21-2005, 10:36 PM
An R3 cam would be a real disappointment in that engine. R1 or maybe even Ted Harbit's R2+ (Available from Fairborn Studebaker) would be as far as you'd wanna go.:D

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

Roscomacaw
07-21-2005, 10:38 PM
BTW, Alan speaks the truth here. For daily driving, an R1 at most!:D

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

benny_64
07-21-2005, 10:45 PM
what kind of a gain would i get from an R1?

slow64
1964 lark daytona
bd_marks@yahoo.com

Dick Steinkamp
07-21-2005, 11:47 PM
quote:Originally posted by benny_64
i have a 64 lark with a 259 and a 2 speed auto.

slow64
1964 lark daytona
bd_marks@yahoo.com


It's actually a 3 speed trans. It just likes to start in second unless it sees full throttle. Parts are available to convert it to a low gear start which would make a big difference in the performance "feel" of the car.

-Dick-

Alan
07-21-2005, 11:49 PM
The R1 cam is IO 17 deg. BTC, IC 63 deg. ABC, EO 56 deg. BBC, EC 24 deg. ATC. .425 lift with 0 valve clearance. Now the hot clearance is .025" on both the I and E so you realy only have .400 lift. and the specs. are at .006 lifter rise so you don't even have these numbers. it is a pertty tame cam.I can give you the specs. of the R3 and R4 cams if you want them. But kiss your gas milage and low end power goodby.

casey
07-22-2005, 02:03 PM
I couldn't agree more with what Alan has to say about cams. I got 'sold' an R3 cam by a supposed Stude engine expert for my Hawk engine that I was rebuilding back in '98. This was before I understood very much about cams. When the engine was done and installed it ran like a tractor at idle and the auto tran & power brakes wouldn't work worth a darn. I suppose it would have screamed at high RPM, but I never even took it out on the highway because I couldn't tolerate the rough idle.

What a nightmare it was to fix that. I finally secured a better cam, but replacing a cam in an already installed engine is like doing a heart transplant. Radiator & everything else in front has to come out so you can get to the timing cover, valve covers & rocker stands have to come off to get push rods and lifters out, carb, intake manifold and everything else on top has to come off so you can remove valley cover- on and on and on. I only got it finally back together last summer; but in the meantime mice had gotten in and chewed up some of the wiring and made holes in the nice new interior that I put in six years ago.

Anybody who recommends an R3 cam for a daily driver should be shot.

JDP
07-22-2005, 04:50 PM
Us Ted'd R2+ cam, a improvement over the factory Avanti cam, and good for a few extra HP.

Studebaker On The Net http://stude.com
64 R2 4 speed Challenger (Plain Wrapper)
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk