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benny_64
07-21-2005, 10:54 PM
if i were to get my block bored say 40 over, where would i get pistons? is this possible?

slow64
1964 lark daytona
bd_marks@yahoo.com

Roscomacaw
07-21-2005, 11:34 PM
Easily possible. Most the big vendors have such;)

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

benny_64
07-21-2005, 11:42 PM
so could i get a set of pistons out of summit? are ferd or chervy pistons interchangable with stude? where the rod connects to the piston, is it pretty much a universal fit or do the major vendors make pistons to specifically fit stude?

slow64
1964 lark daytona
bd_marks@yahoo.com

whacker
07-22-2005, 12:13 AM
I think when Mr Biggs refers to "big vendors", he is refering to big Studebaker vendors. Places like SASCO and Studebaker International. I'm pretty sure that Kantor also has them, but at a higher price. There are others as well. If you are going to be in the Studebaker hobby, you should do what you can to support the people who invest their time and money in the marque. None of them (that I know of) are getting rich at it, and they are mostly just enthusiasts like you and me, doing it to keep themselves in Studebakers. It is possible to fit pistons from other brand engines to Studebaker rods, but it is a whole lot easier if you use the ones with the pinch bolt that are designed for the studebaker rod.

Alan
07-22-2005, 01:47 AM
What is the bore size now? Do not bore it out just to make it bigger, if it is standard bore now I would only go .020" or .030" and save the block for another bore later. There is not much diference between .020 and .040 power wise that you could feel in the seat of your pants.

Alan
07-22-2005, 02:25 AM
From reading your other threads I can see where you want more power with an automatic Lark. To get the most out of it I would get a 289 crank, with the extra stroke you would feel it but still get good economy and have plenty of torque with the auto also the 289 pistons are usualy cheeper than the 259's. And like the grump says nothing beats more inches.

benny_64
07-26-2005, 10:02 PM
hey whacker,
i am totally on board with supporting our stude vendors, i was just curious if you can match nearly any piston with stude rods. speaking of vendors, anyone else having a hard time getting onto stephan allen's site, does he or sasco have a direct phone number to order from?

slow64
1964 lark daytona
bd_marks@yahoo.com

benny_64
07-26-2005, 10:03 PM
BTW, i am not trying to bore out .060 over or anything crazy, just looking for a clean slate with maybe a bit more oomph.

slow64
1964 lark daytona
bd_marks@yahoo.com

Mike Van Veghten
07-27-2005, 12:19 AM
Alan,

Why not bore "just to make it bigger"?
The stock bores are very small compaired to the combustion chambers. The closer the bore is to the chamber size, the more the valves are unshrouded, the more the valves are unshruded, the more power will be made with no other changes. That big step at the intake and exhaust valve really screws with good flow. And ALL Stude V-8's have the problem. Two ways helping the problem, 1. over bore to the full chamber size....but you can't do that right? 2. a "large" bore with a chamfer (2 ea.).
I vote for big bores....safley!

And how many Stude owners rebuild their engines (under normal circumstances) twice in one ownership/lifetime?

P.S. milage is gained also.
Also....not trying to be a wise guy, just a coupla facts.

Alan
07-27-2005, 12:30 AM
Mike, I have been working on Studes since 1958 and have built more than 30 engines for my 5 Studes. I've pulled engines that had less than a thousand miles on them and bored them out to 3-3/4" - 4.00" but the way parts are getting harder and more expensive to come by for a daily driver you had better get as much as you can from them. Especially if you are using only full flow blocks.