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Chris Collins
07-21-2005, 11:07 AM
Since both mirrors were clouded and loose, I broke out the glass and
had new ones cut. Stan G.'s book discusses drilling out the rivets
that hold the mounting plate against the ball, then tapping the holes
and putting in screws. Has anyone been successful at this? The pot
metal "shanks" on the mirror head seem thin, and I'd think it would
be easy to split them.

Maybe try to pull some very thin brass shim stock with a pair of
pliers in between the ball and plate without taking things apart?? I
do have a 3rd mirror I could use for practice. Since the chrome is
decent, thought it was worthwhile to try something before ordering
repros.

Thanks..

Chris Collins
63 Avanti R-2
66 Cruiser

Alan
07-21-2005, 01:48 PM
Within the mirror head, the steel plate mounted across the pivotal ball will usually be rusted.It should be removed and cad plated while the other parts are being chromed. Poor mechanical design by the manufacturer is evident in the use of too thick a plate for the application. The result is a faliure to provide the necessary flexing needed for applying a constant pressure to the ball and socket. Consequently, any wear of the ball will produce a loosley held mirror for which there is no self-compensating adjustment. A tempered spring strip would have provided a better solution and ensured permanent adjustment
To release this plate, use a small sharp chisel, knife, or hand grinding
tool with which to remove the flairing. Best method is to use a 1/4" or 5/16" end mill, if one is available. Mounted in a drill chuck it will smoothly cut away the retaining metal. Locate the exact centers of the standoff posts and, if not already defined, spot them with a prick punch. Carefully drill holes in each post to within 1/16" of penetration. Use a No. 43 tap drill for either a 4-36 or 4-40 screw thread. Carefully tap the holes of each post and follow with a bottoming tap, if available, to extend the threads to the bottom of the holes. For the screws, use two 1/4" long panhead machine screws to hold the hold the plate in place after the components have been replated and re-assembeled.
When the mirror head and bracket are taken to the plater, have him remove and polish off any burrs and/or flashing remaining after the origional chrome has been striped off. Some of the brackets had sharp edges and were not as well finished as they should have been.
After the parts have been re-assembled, the glass mirror is ready to be cemented in place.For cementing use the proper sealant. A small tube from NAPA (PN. 4-6859). Use about 4 or 5 small dabs of cement distributed equaly on the flat rim of the mirror head. Do not apply a continuous circle of cement around the inside rim. Too much adhesive would make future glass difficult.
In some instancesthe origional finish of the S-V mirror may be in good condition, butthe mirror head has become loose and will no longer hold the desired adjustment. This annoying problem can be easily corrected.
Slip a thin .005 to .010" strip of shim stock or steel 3/8" x 1-1/8"
at right anglesand in between the retaining plate and the ball. Turn the ends of of this stripup and over the top of the plate to hold it in place.

Chris Collins
07-24-2005, 10:55 AM
Thanks Alan, for taking the time to detail the procedures out for me. Will feel more confident in taking a stab at it now...

Chris Collins
63 Avanti R-2
66 Cruiser