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curt
07-09-2005, 04:11 PM
My exhaust manafold gasket is leaking on the R bank at the head or block(?). This is a 1963 block in a 1955 President. Any advice on this job will be helpful. Are bolts or studs and nuts used for this application?

Roscomacaw
07-09-2005, 04:40 PM
3/8ths bolts hold the manifold on. (9/16ths wrench size[}:)]) If the leak's between the manifold and the head, you can change the steel gaskets without completely removing the manifold or the 6 bolts. Just loosen the bolts, pick out the remmnants of the old gaskets and slip in the new ones. Usually, the 3 steel gaskets have little "ears" that let you slip them over the bolts without removing the bolts completely.;)

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

studeclunker
07-09-2005, 04:44 PM
Assuming this is a '63 block/motor... Bolts to the block/head (Charlie Brown? never mind![:I]), studs and nuts to the exhaust pipe. As long as you are replacing the one side's gasket, do both.;)

There you go! The Biggs has spoken!:D:D:D

Lotsa Larks!
Studeclunker
A.K.A: out2lunch

curt
07-09-2005, 07:30 PM
IS there any way to get Liquid wrench 'up' the bolts? Any one have a soaking technique for the bolts? It looks to me like the leak is between the head and manifold.

Sonny
07-09-2005, 08:03 PM
quote:Originally posted by curt

IS there any way to get Liquid wrench 'up' the bolts? Any one have a soaking technique for the bolts? It looks to me like the leak is between the head and manifold.


Nope, nothing like that, that I know about Curt. I'll say that 90% of the manifold bolts that I've taken out come out nicely, then there's that other 10% [}:)] Some advice though, when you start to turn the bolt to take it out and if it's reeeeal tight, STOP, those bolts can snap right off. The only good thing that can happen if it snaps off is IF you're lucky it'll snap off close to the head. If it doesn't snap off close to the head then you're in a Real chitt sandwich, ask me how I know that... :(

Don't even mess around, if they're not budging, get out the "junk yard socket wrench", (your torches), and get the manifold cherry red before you try it again. Get it cherry red only around the bolt where you're working, as evenly as possible, then rap the top of the head of the bolt before you try to turn the bolt out.

Yep, it's a dirty, rotten job and it's almost impossible to get to all the bolts with the torch, (you have to move a lot of stuff out of the area where you're gonna be using the torch), but it's better than pulling that head. Good luck and let us know how it goes will ya?


Sonny
http://RacingStudebakers.com

N8N
07-09-2005, 08:09 PM
When I did this on my own '55 (also with a '63 motor oddly enough) I replaced all the bolts and the toothed washers with stainless to hopefully prevent such problems in the future, plus the stainless just looks good. Obviously all the holes were retapped and lots of anti-seize was used (anti-seize is a MUST with stainless hardware) Now I didn't snap off a single bolt although some were difficult to get to. I had to use sockets on some, a deep offset wrench on others, and a regular box wrench on others yet. Some had to be accessed from underneath the car. Fun fun fun.

Now the studs that hold the downpipe on... THOSE are a biotch. Had to drill one of those out. Getting pretty good at drilling out old bolts without ruining the threads actually. I suppose that's a useful skill... I've heard of guys blowing out the old studs with a cutting torch and I tried that once and I guess I didn't have the nagic touch (kinda destroyed the manifold. Oops.)

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

Roscomacaw
07-10-2005, 03:11 PM
Even if you don't use stainless (or do), use Nevr-Sieze compound on the bolt threads. Use that stuff, and the bolts will never lock up again. I use that stuff on just about ever machine screw and bolt I work with!;)

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

N8N
07-10-2005, 06:36 PM
thanks Mr Biggs, I'll be sure to mention that next time JP laughs at me for putting anti-seize on something he considers silly. "But Bob uses it too!" LOL

One more tip - when dealing with stuck fasteners, instead of putting slow, steady pressure on your wrench, just steady it with one hand and smack it with the heel of your other hand. The sharp impact torque is more likely to break the bolt free of any corrosion and less likely to shear the bolt itself. When dealing with old, rusty hardware always jerk, never pull.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

curt
07-10-2005, 08:33 PM
Antilock compound is soooo needed with AL heads and Sparkplugs!!

oldcarfart
07-12-2005, 10:09 PM
think KROIL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
http:www.kanolabs.com

BRUCESTUDE
07-13-2005, 12:25 AM
Impact wrenches work great on corroded bolts, if you can reach 'em.