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benny_64
06-21-2005, 11:13 PM
well i am pretty sure my heater core sprung a leak, i get this assumption by the coolant leaking from behind my glove box onto my floor boards. my question is, is there a way to bypass my heater core or plug off the lines going to it until i get it pulled and fixed? someone told me i could probably take it in and get it saldered. does that sound about right?

slow64
1964 lark daytona
bd_marks@yahoo.com

Danarchy
06-21-2005, 11:33 PM
doubt it can just be soldered, you'd be better off in the long run replacing it. It can be by-passed by looping the outlet & inlet hoses off the water pump.

Dallas,Texas

studeclunker
06-22-2005, 12:45 AM
Get under the dash and look closely. It could be the valve.

Lotsa Larks!
Studeclunker
A.K.A: out2lunch

benny_64
06-22-2005, 05:07 PM
will i have to pull my glove box to get it out if it is bad?

slow64
1964 lark daytona
bd_marks@yahoo.com

MarkC
06-22-2005, 06:51 PM
Yes, the glove box will have to come out to access the valve and hose connections. The Ranco thermostatic valves are expensive and vendors do rebuild them. The original hoses that run through the firewall actually have molded bends, but I've successfully used generic heater hose. Access to the clamps is limited, so keep band aids handy. Coolant leaks from the valve are pretty apparent (as drips from the valve), but core leaks can drip from the heater diffuser duct holes or even the bottom of the blower motor.

Good luck.

Mark

MarkC, 64 Y8
Working in Spokane, WA

benny_64
06-22-2005, 08:42 PM
thanks alot, i think for now i am going to just bypass it all, it nevers gets hot down hear anyways.

slow64
1964 lark daytona
bd_marks@yahoo.com

studegary
06-23-2005, 02:06 PM
My recommendation is to remove the nipples that the hoses connect to and replace them with pipe plugs. If you want things to still look original/correct, you can mount the hoses to the pipe plugs. This way you have no coolant flow in the circuit and have no chance of hose problems.