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View Full Version : '64 Daytona - Fender Removal



Swifster
06-17-2005, 12:55 PM
I'm yanking off the rest of the front clip from my Daytona this weekend. Anything I should watch for in pulling the fenders. Any bolts hidden well enough that I may not find the first time?

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Tom - Sterling Heights, MI

Ancient Chinese Proverb: "Injection is nice, but I'd rather be blown!"

1964 Studebaker Daytona - Laguna Blue, Original 4-Spd. Car, Power Steering, Disc Brakes, Bucket Seats, Tinted Glass, Climatizer Ventilation System, AM Radio (136,989 Miles)

Transtar60
06-17-2005, 01:04 PM
Well theres the ones inside the fender(4 ea side AFAIR) bolting to the cowl/doorhinge post and three or so bolting the inner fender to the firewall/ cowl. And the bolt underneath the radiator that holds the radiator saddle to the frame. Thats all I remember.

benny_64
06-17-2005, 01:33 PM
are you taking the front clip off in one shot or piece by piece. if it one piece at a time i hope you have plenty of grinding wheels cuase those spot welds are no fun.


slow64
1964 lark daytona
bd_marks@yahoo.com

studeclunker
06-17-2005, 05:18 PM
Your front clip is in three to four pieces. The '64 is easier to get apart than the earlier Larks because the eyebrow piece is'nt done the same. You have no need to remove spot welds.

Just remove the six or eight bolts each side on the rear of the fenders. four are located in the door post (it's easiest to get to these bolts if you put the car on stands and take off the front wheels, or vice versa.) and three or four are on the inside edge of the fender along the fire wall facing the engine.

Then you have a whole slew of them across the front of the radiator mount. You can see these clearly whenever you open the hood. There are a bunch of little ones along the bottom of the grill as well.

Then there are some along the radiator mounting frame. and two underneath it.

The easiest way to do this is to take the radiator out, remove the two mounting bolts holding it's mounting frame to the car's frame, Then remove the bolts mentioned earlier in the back of the wheel well along the door frame and fire wall. The whole thing will come off in one piece. You will just need assistance to lift it off. It's heavy and awkward.

You might also want to remove the stablizing weights from the front when you take the bumper off. The ruddy things weigh a tonne.

Also it's wise to remove the hood first. Oh yes! I almost forgot the wiring. It travels along a channel in the front. It will need to be slid out before you attempt to remove the clip (Please don't ask why I tell you this).

Lotsa Larks!
Studeclunker
A.K.A: out2lunch

Swifster
06-17-2005, 09:34 PM
Thanks guys. I already have the grille, valance and radiator support pulled off the car. I'm pulling the fenders off as an assembly and will leave them intact until the front end is mocked up after the frame work. I'll probably replace the left fender because, a) there is some minor collision damage at the begining of the 'cove' area, and b) so that I don't have to fill the radio antenna hole.

I'm having the parts media blasted initially and then painted with self-etching primer. Once the mock up is finished, I'll have everything chemically stripped and e-coated prior to paint. Stuff like the radiator support and the grille supports I'll have powdercoated with the frame. I'll have the inner sides of the fenders powdercoated and the outside and engine compartment area painted.

I'm getting a shopping list together for a trip SASCO in July.

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Tom - Sterling Heights, MI

Ancient Chinese Proverb: "Injection is nice, but I'd rather be blown!"

1964 Studebaker Daytona - Laguna Blue, Original 4-Spd. Car, Power Steering, Disc Brakes, Bucket Seats, Tinted Glass, Climatizer Ventilation System, AM Radio (136,989 Miles)