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benny_64
06-16-2005, 12:13 AM
excuse the spelling if its wrong, but i am thinking of puuting louvres on my hood. my stude gets a bit on the warm side when traffic backs up. i live in san diego where the weather is great and the freeways are crap. everyday i get stuck in traffic coming home from work. i just ordered a new thermostat just as a good start and have never changed freeze plugs or anything along those lines. i have hear that venting out the hood can get temp drops up to 15%. that would make a big difference to me. does anyone think this is stude taboo? i think it would be kinda original and a nice personal touch. does any one know where to buy some rivet on louvre strips? or any cooling tips.

slow64
1964 lark daytona
bd_marks@yahoo.com

PaulDriver
06-16-2005, 12:36 AM
Pull the freeze plugs and clean out the block.

That's the #1 answer to overheating problems.

Something to think about, exhaust restrictions can also exhibit as a cooling problem.

65cruiser
06-16-2005, 05:54 AM
I wouldn't think that louvers would not help a bit. I'd be looking at the block and a bigger radiator if that was a problem.

________________________
Mark Anderson
http://home.alltel.net/anderm
1965 Studebaker Cruiser

52hawk
06-16-2005, 08:05 AM
Besides not helping with the cooling, 'rivet on parts' are gonna ruin your hood.As pauldriver said,take out the freeze plugs and clean out the passages in the block. Have a good radiator shop clean and inspect your radiator.If your cooling system isn't right,no holes in the hood are gonna help. Good Luck!

last of the finned Hawks!!

Mike Van Veghten
06-16-2005, 09:21 AM
Benny,

YES....the louvers will help the cooling. 15%...I don't know, probably a bit less, but they do help. Been there!

BUT....I'd find the problem and fix the root cause. Don't bandade it.
For that 50's / 60's look....yea, go for it.
For over heating....find and fix.

MIke

benny_64
06-16-2005, 12:18 PM
until i get my shop manual i don't know where to start to pull freeze plugs. or even where they're at. so if it is a simple job i wouldn't mind some tips, is it a one day job?

slow64
1964 lark daytona
bd_marks@yahoo.com

N8N
06-16-2005, 01:20 PM
yeah it's a one day job, just do it on a warm day and wear clothes you don't mind getting dirty :)

First pull the starter and the little drain plugs at the rear corners of the block. An 8-point socket can be helpful if these haven't been removed in a few decades, although an open end wrench should work. They will probably be packed solid with crap, no cause for alarm, this is perfectly normal (and it's why your engine is running hot.) Then knock out the rearmost two freeze plugs on each side (punch a hole in them with a sharp screwdriver and lever them out,) dig around in there with a small screwdriver, pieces of stiff wire, whatever you can find to loosen the gunk. If there's a *lot* of gunk in there or if the freeze plugs look rusty, remove the next two forward. If *those* are packed full of gunk, or if they look rusty... you see where this is going don't you? :) Flush it all out with a garden hose (might want to pull the thermostat to do this) then finally put in new freeze plugs, flush again through thermostat (so everything drains out the drain holes) and button it back up, fill with coolant, enjoy cooler running engine.

Unless you are more ingenious than I you will never replace all the freeze plugs with the engine in the car with the stock style, you need to use either the rubber ones or else the expanding cup type that you tighten with a wrench. (the latter only if you have a late full flow block) The freeze plugs are all 1-1/2" in diameter, both early and late V-8 blocks.

Having a creeper is a good thing while doing this, otherwise you will be laying under the car in a puddle of gunky water when you try to reinstall everything :)

Finally you may want to consider using a cooling system flush to remove the last of the nastiness after you've done all this; you will need to remove the starter again however to let the block drain after flushing.

good luck,

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

Swifster
06-16-2005, 01:25 PM
Freeze plugs are stamped steel or brass plugs pressed into each side of the engine block. There are usually 3 per side (unsure on Stude engines, sorry), and these can be knocked out with a hammer and chisel (or large socket). Once removed, clean out as much of the rust, sludge, and any other debris you can reach. Do not do this with the engine hot or you can get burned. Make sure you drain as much of the coolant from the engine as you can. Some engines are easier to get at than others, and some you may have to either pull a mount on one side to get at the plugs, or you may have to pull the engine completely (again, I'm not sure on the Studes, but I'm sure others will chime in).

After cleaning out the block, install the new plugs with a hammer and a large socket. I use a rubber hammer and an 1 1/4" socket. When finished, install new coolant, and never, ever, use extended use anti-freeze like Dex-Cool or the Texaco equivalent (usually orange). This will sludge up the engine.

I would also suggest having the radiator looked at. Over time, rust and scale can start to clog the lower portion of the radiator. A cooling system flush and hot tanking the radiator may not be a bad idea either.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tom - Sterling Heights, MI

Ancient Chinese Proverb: "Injection is nice, but I'd rather be blown!"

1964 Studebaker Daytona - Laguna Blue, Original 4-Spd. Car, Power Steering, Disc Brakes, Bucket Seats, Tinted Glass, Climatizer Ventilation System, AM Radio (136,989 Miles)

Swifster
06-16-2005, 01:26 PM
Opps! Beat to the punch... [:I]

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tom - Sterling Heights, MI

Ancient Chinese Proverb: "Injection is nice, but I'd rather be blown!"

1964 Studebaker Daytona - Laguna Blue, Original 4-Spd. Car, Power Steering, Disc Brakes, Bucket Seats, Tinted Glass, Climatizer Ventilation System, AM Radio (136,989 Miles)

DEEPNHOCK
06-16-2005, 07:52 PM
If you are overheating, then you have a cooling system problem.
Pull the starter and the freeze plugs and drain plugs and give your engine a coat hanger enema and flush.

As far as adding louvre's, got to a big truck stop that has a chrome shop and thay have polished louvre's in stainless steel that will bolt on... But then your Stude will probably get stolen and head straight to Tijuana for a white tuck and roll interior;)
Jeff[8D]




quote:Originally posted by benny_64

excuse the spelling if its wrong, but i am thinking of puuting louvres on my hood. my stude gets a bit on the warm side when traffic backs up. i live in san diego where the weather is great and the freeways are crap. everyday i get stuck in traffic coming home from work. i just ordered a new thermostat just as a good start and have never changed freeze plugs or anything along those lines. i have hear that venting out the hood can get temp drops up to 15%. that would make a big difference to me. does anyone think this is stude taboo? i think it would be kinda original and a nice personal touch. does any one know where to buy some rivet on louvre strips? or any cooling tips.

slow64
1964 lark daytona
bd_marks@yahoo.com


DEEPNHOCK at Cox.net
'37 Coupe Express
'37 Coupe Express Trailer
'61 Hawk
http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock

N8N
06-16-2005, 08:06 PM
That's not funny! You should've seen the "before" interior in my Golden Hawk!

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

rockne10
06-16-2005, 08:11 PM
When I rebuilt my 63 engine Ihad the block cooked, thinking that would clean out everything. With the heads off and all the coolant orifices exposed I was amazed at the amount of casting sand that was concreted between the cylinders and block. Spent a few hours with long screwdrivers and chisels. When your pipes are clean, everything works better.

benny_64
06-16-2005, 11:11 PM
hey deepnhock i bought a 4 barrel intake from you a while back and can't find the part numbers for the studs and gaskets i need. can you help me out? oh and who's got the best deal on freeze plugs?

slow64
1964 lark daytona
bd_marks@yahoo.com

N8N
06-17-2005, 04:50 AM
Benny,

Jon Myer has the best prices on the intake gaskets that I've seen, and his are the good composition style (that don't stick if you put a little grease on them.) The carb studs are just standard carb studs, hit your local FLAPS and order them in whatever length you need (if you are using a spacer you will need longer studs.) I've always just bought the freeze plugs at my FLAPS...

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel