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65cruiser
06-14-2005, 10:34 AM
I have a 1965 Cruiser, daily driver. For being a rust-belt car, it's in incredible shape. No rust ever in the floors, trunk, etc. I have one repaired area down low on the left front fender that looks like it's got a piece of metal welded in. On the right front fender, I have two little bubbles starting, about the size of pencil erasers, also down low near the rear seam line. I know this is a factory installed Studebaker rust area.

I recently opened up the doors and cleaned them out, then treated the inside of them with POR 15. There was a little surface rust inside them, and one had a rag in the bottom that it appears that someone left in at the factory that caused a small rust hole on the bottom of the door. I cleaned that, laid in some fiberglass matt and POR 15d the whole shootin match. It's holding up well.

This car is a driver, meaning it gets driven in the wet. The day I bought the car, the PO was upset because it was raining. He said in all the time he'd owned it--it'd only been driven in the rain once. And....you ain't gonna believe this....when he washed the car, he taped up the door openings with tape so water could not get inside. Yeah, you wanna buy a car from him. He still has a 60 Lark for sale, so if you're interested.....

Anyway, back to the front fenders. The right fender is the only rust spot I've found on the entire car. I've sealed the inside seam as best I can even though the factory undercoat is still in place. But, it worries me. I know it's going to get worse and know there's no real way to stop it.

So, here's the question. Should I eventually pull the front fenders and repair them? Or, should I spring for a set of NOS fenders from Sasco? Sasco is selling them for around $170 a pair. But, then I'd need to either cut the spot welds on the inner fenders, or...should I buy new NOS inner fenders also? They are available. I'm afraid these fenders will be made of unobtainium if I wait, but the rust problem is not big enough to even fool with right now. I'm thinking this will be a considerable amount of work, and I'm no bodyman. If I went the new fender route, should they be spot welded (inner liner), then POR 15d, then painted before they go on the vehicle? Or after? How hard is it to remove the front fenders?

This is not something I really want to do in the near future, but I'm thinking I should buy the fenders and liners and just hang onto them.

What say ye?

________________________
Mark Anderson
http://home.alltel.net/anderm
1965 Studebaker Cruiser

studegary
06-14-2005, 03:10 PM
From your description, I will give my opinion. Put your car's front end up on good jackstands. Remove the front wheels. Clean out the rear area of the front fenders as best as you can. When the area is clean and dry, coat with your choice of rust preventor (not undercoating).
I would still buy a pair of NOS front fenders. Since you use the car daily, you may end up with a crash damaged fender and then would need a replacement. I can't see replacing either of your front fenders now. Of course, if you have a NOS pair of front fenders, you probably won't have one on the car damaged. That is cheap insurance and you can always sell the NOS fenders if you sell the car.

benny_64
06-14-2005, 09:46 PM
i recently bought a pair of front fenders for my 64 daytona from sasco, and was very pleased with the purchase, but not pleased with the work to be done.
the only real hard part is going to war with those spot welds, especially around your head lights. i am sure someone has a better way to do so but i used a grinder until the weld was almost gone then popped them up with a really flat crow bar and hammer. plus there was a weld (not spot weld) in the front of the fender right before it bends around the head light. as far as hardware, my car has always been a california car so it all came out pretty easy.
i ended up mounting the new one and put about 4 or 5 small welds around the top of the fender.
btw, another rusty prone area... did you take out the battery and holder?

slow64
1964 lark daytona
bd_marks@yahoo.com

65cruiser
06-15-2005, 08:20 AM
Okay tell me more. I know the inner fenders are spot welded on (Sasco sells those also--so I would replace those), but is there something spot welded behind the headlights? I wonder if that's available NOS so I don't have to pull anything apart. It would be much easier to buy all the front fender parts, have them spot welded, then painted and installed.


quote:Originally posted by benny_64

i recently bought a pair of front fenders for my 64 daytona from sasco, and was very pleased with the purchase, but not pleased with the work to be done.
the only real hard part is going to war with those spot welds, especially around your head lights. i am sure someone has a better way to do so but i used a grinder until the weld was almost gone then popped them up with a really flat crow bar and hammer. plus there was a weld (not spot weld) in the front of the fender right before it bends around the head light. as far as hardware, my car has always been a california car so it all came out pretty easy.
i ended up mounting the new one and put about 4 or 5 small welds around the top of the fender.
btw, another rusty prone area... did you take out the battery and holder?

slow64
1964 lark daytona
bd_marks@yahoo.com


________________________
Mark Anderson
http://home.alltel.net/anderm
1965 Studebaker Cruiser

benny_64
06-16-2005, 12:13 AM
i'd have to check to be 100%, but i am pretty sure that the sheet metal behind the head lights is part of the inner fenders, and it has about 10 spot welds on it, but it very well could be a small part not stamped out with the inner. so if you don't have to worry about beating up that metal then your job of getting it all off will be a lot easier. oh yeh, around your battery, how's it look?

slow64
1964 lark daytona
bd_marks@yahoo.com

65cruiser
06-16-2005, 06:52 AM
Around my battery is perfect. This car has been sitting on a velvet pillow most of its life.


quote:Originally posted by benny_64

i'd have to check to be 100%, but i am pretty sure that the sheet metal behind the head lights is part of the inner fenders, and it has about 10 spot welds on it, but it very well could be a small part not stamped out with the inner. so if you don't have to worry about beating up that metal then your job of getting it all off will be a lot easier. oh yeh, around your battery, how's it look?

slow64
1964 lark daytona
bd_marks@yahoo.com


________________________
Mark Anderson
http://home.alltel.net/anderm
1965 Studebaker Cruiser

benny_64
06-16-2005, 01:19 PM
wow, you're lucky, the area below my battery is hardly there!!!!

slow64
1964 lark daytona
bd_marks@yahoo.com

hank63
06-16-2005, 07:47 PM
Yes, spot welds are a bit of a pain to remove. Punch-mark and drill 'em is what some pro's do. You need a very sharp drill.
/H

52hawk
06-17-2005, 11:40 PM
If you really have to drill spot welds,go to a bodyshop supply store,or Harbor Freight,and buy a spot weld drill. The best is made by'Blair' looks like a miniature hole-saw [1/4" or 3/8" diameter].if you're careful,you can drill the outer sheet away,and not put a hole through the 2nd layer,leaving a good surface to weld your new panel to.Better than a center punch is to use a good 1/8 bit to just mark a center for your spot weld drill.[keep the spot weld drill straight,and don't force it,they last a long time if you don't get in a hurry]

last of the finned Hawks!!

raprice
06-18-2005, 12:24 PM
Mark,
Considering the fact that the new fenders from SASCO are so reasonable, I'd buy them in a New York minute and store them in a dry place.
As you said, in the future, they may be made in unobtainium, or too expensive.
If I were in your shoes, if I needed to replace the fenders, I'd bite the bullet and go to a good body shop and let a professional do the job, welding and all.
My 2 cents.
Rog