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benny_64
06-11-2005, 07:14 PM
i have a 64 lark with a 289. it has a 2b carb. i am thinking my vacuum advance is bad but another opinion would be great. when my car sits for more then 4 or 5 hours after driving it, it won't start. i have to spray starter fluid in there to get it to fire up, and once i have warmed it up and get on the road it is very hesitant, if i give it too much gas at low rpm's it will bog down and die. i am almost positive my fuel pump is good, but this really sounds like a vacuum problem. it has been like this since i bought it and i drive it everyday, which makes for a pain when its time to go to work or leave work. thanks for any help.

slow64
bd_marks@yahoo.com

N8N
06-11-2005, 07:23 PM
Have you actually removed the pump and checked it? How about the accelerator pump on the carb, is it working OK? Have you looked to see if your fuel filter is filling up with crud? You know that if you have a stock pump there is a filter in the pump right? Really sounds like fuel to me...

good luck,

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

benny_64
06-11-2005, 07:33 PM
i acually removed the pump today and it looked pretty clean inside, i am not sure how to check the accelerator pump on the carb. i am not a auto mech so i need feed back kinda barny style. and i checked the inline filter from the pump to the carb and it was good too.

slow64
bd_marks@yahoo.com

N8N
06-11-2005, 07:39 PM
Just remove the air cleaner with the engine off, then work the throttle linkage with your hand. Do you see two little spurts of gas shooting into the barrels of the carb? If not that will cause a bog when you try to accelerate.

good luck

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

benny_64
06-11-2005, 08:02 PM
well i tried what you said and nothing spurted out, and with the engine on fuel only came out of one side and it was apretty small drizzle, hardly a spurt. could this have to do with the (don't know the technical names) plunger conected to the throttle linkage. i have a few spare carb parts and that is one of them.

slow64
bd_marks@yahoo.com

N8N
06-11-2005, 08:23 PM
That "plunger" is the accelerator pump... probably the leather is hardened. If you are lucky you can pop the top of the carb (warning: that big screw that forms the accelerator pump linkage pivot is left hand thread) pull the accel pump, oil it up with some neatsfoot oil or even engine oil - just get it softened up - reinstall and all will be good. It definitely would cause an issue with acceleration.

That said, you might need to rebuild the carb, only coming out one side makes me think that maybe you have an issue with dirt in there that needs to be cleaned out, but you won't know until you have checked the accel pump. Also might as well check your float level while you have the top off just to rule that out as a possible problem.

good luck,

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

benny_64
06-11-2005, 08:27 PM
i know i sound pretty ignorant, but what do you mean by checking the float level? and how do i check. bare with me please.

slow64
bd_marks@yahoo.com

benny_64
06-12-2005, 01:46 AM
well i rebuilt the carb tonight but didn't have time to re-install it. i did check the carb pump though and it shot fuel out. oh and it was missing one of the small ball bearings too, maybe why only one side was spurting before. i am anxious to see if this solves my problems but will have to wait til tomorrow.

slow64
bd_marks@yahoo.com

N8N
06-12-2005, 07:18 AM
A missing check ball will certainly cause things to be wierd... here's hoping you've found your problem.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

jackb
06-12-2005, 09:07 AM
When you rebuilt the carb, hopfully 2 things were done: you installed a new needle & seat(these are in the threaded fitting that screws into the carb and connects your incoming fuel line, and you replaced the float axle (small nail with no head). What was the condition of your plunger leather on the accelerator pump ? If it was torn or twisted around, there's your answer....Also, those floats were notorious for "sticking" especially in hot weather. Hence me asking you about the float axle. If you get poor idle, and continued poor acceleration, try slapping down hard on your air filter housing while the car is running, and see if there's any improvement. Those Strombergs were fond of loading up on stuck floats. I add a bit of Mystery oil every other tankful....I was told it helped clean the fuel system, including the pivot points inside the carb (float axle),
aided in vapor lock, and made me feel good <g>. Let us know how the car runs after install...

Roscomacaw
06-12-2005, 12:01 PM
I have never had an instance of a sticky float in a Stromberg. Not saying it can't happen - just that it's not happened to me[:I]
benny's problem is classic, failed accelerator pump. BUT.... That one missing "ball bearing". If it's the one that sits in the bottom of the accerlerator pump well, it's gonna cause symptoms like a bad pump leather![B)] That ball (actualy, it's a valve) allows fuel from the bowl to be drawn in on the upstroke of the pump but closes off that port when the pump comes down (when you step on the gas). If that ball was not there or was the wrong size (there's another one in the outlet circuit of some Strombergs that's a different size and it's job is to keep the pump from drawing in air on it's upstroke, instead of fuel from the bowl.), this could let the pump simply push the fuel back into the bowl instead of the venturis - hence the stumbling of the engine when you step on the gas.[}:)]

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

64challenger
06-12-2005, 12:19 PM
Ahhh Mystery Oil. Best friend of the Studebaker engine!

My Studes:
1.1947 Commander 14A-C3
2.1948 Champion 2 door sedan (parts car)
3.1948 Champion 2 door sedan
4.1950 Champion 2 door sedan
5.1959 Lark 2 door post
6.1964 Stude challenger 2 door

Dwain G.
06-12-2005, 01:03 PM
quote:If that ball was not there or was the wrong size (there's another one in the outlet circuit of some Strombergs that's a different size


............................................
Just the other day I ran across an old overhaul instruction for a Stromberg, and many years ago I had written 'Eliminate', with an arrow pointing to that small check ball that goes below the pump nozzle. I do not remember where I got the information to eliminate that ball, or why one would. I don't remember any bulletins stating such. Anyone ever have a problem with that ball causing a restriction?

Dwain G.

benny_64
06-12-2005, 01:12 PM
well i changed out the needle and seat, the leather on the old pump was poor, plus the spring that wraps around the plunger under the leather was coming apart. so i changed that out with one that looks like a newer version of the old, it has another metal washer above the leather. so BIGGS, were you saying that there is supposed to be another ball under the pump "plunger" there was a spring of course but no ball down there. the car runs a lot better now and starts after a few try's with some heavy pumping on the pedal. but when i disconnect the linkage from the pedal and work the plunger by hand it works great, but with everything hooked up it works but barely, causing me to have to pump the gas about ten times to get a good start. any advise on adjusting the linkage or taking out slop?
oh yeh, i didn't change the float axle, but it seemed to work great, if it ain't broke don't fix it right.
slow64
bd_marks@yahoo.com

Roscomacaw
06-12-2005, 06:31 PM
Yup, there's supposed to be a ball in the bottom of the pump well. Usually, there's a little retainer "grille" that holds the ball in place - but I've come across some where the ball's just laying in it's hole. Works fine that way - just so it IS there.[}:)] If it isn't there, some of the fuel MAY dribble into the venturies where there should be a healthy squirt, but much of it is just gonna be pushed back thru the hole where that ball would be acting as a one-way check valve and go back into the fuel bowl.:(
There is some slop in the accelerator pump linkage and I confess I've addressed this by adding some small diameter retraction springs that I got from "somewhere". It works great and eliminates virtually all the slop that was there when I got the tired old carb.[:o)]
This carb I speak of is a tired old veteran of a Stromberg that was on my Transtar when I got it in 1989. It's tired alright, but the damn truck runs SO good with that carb that I'm reluctant to change it out![:p]

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

benny_64
06-13-2005, 03:33 PM
i don't have that ball in there but i have one that must be the right size, it came with rebuild kit. it is bigger then the other two in the carb. so BIGGS, i should be able to pull the top of the carb, and drop the ball under the pump plunger? i too have some play in my pump, where'd you put those springs?

slow64
bd_marks@yahoo.com

Roscomacaw
06-14-2005, 10:51 AM
Yup, take the top off, drop the ball in the pump well and replace the top. Take it for a test spin.
As to the springs, I'll try to take a photo later. It's difficult to describe with a keyboard![}:)]

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS