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timhere1
06-09-2005, 01:23 AM
I am working on an Avanti Prestolite distributor. OK, you are going to tell me to make it breakerless. Let's put that aside for now. The shop manual says I should have Prestolite IBP-4108. When I took the distributor apart the tag identified it as Prestolite IBS-4012. It is a dual point distributor. I could not find anything on the internet about either model except how to convert to breakerless. The normal wear exists on this dist., ie. weights and cam wear. Does anyone know what distributor I am working on or whether a sick person in the past put the wrong Prestolite part plate on this unit? Thanks in advance.

Mike
06-09-2005, 04:40 AM
Were both mechanical advance springs the same? They were, on R2's. R1's use one of the R2 springs; and one that is heavier, with elogated "eyes".
There's also a slight, (insignificant?), differance in the amount of mechanical advance. Since this is determined by a hole in the plate attached to the distributor cam, the cams have different #'s.
Dave Thibeault has the bushed weights, and new pivot pins. He also has rebuilt distributors.
While the distributor is apart, seperate and clean the breaker plate halves and bearing.
Be careful of the vacuum advance. The mount and the pin on the breaker plate are fragile.
I ran a new ground wire, from the condenser screw, through the distributor body, to a screw on the outside. It's more flexible, and in the way less than stock.
Borg/Warner A95 points, and G136 condenser work well; and are available from "NAPA".
Mike M.

timhere1
06-09-2005, 01:48 PM
quote:Originally posted by Mike

Were both mechanical advance springs the same? They were, on R2's. R1's use one of the R2 springs; and one that is heavier, with elogated "eyes".
There's also a slight, (insignificant?), differance in the amount of mechanical advance. Since this is determined by a hole in the plate attached to the distributor cam, the cams have different #'s.
Dave Thibeault has the bushed weights, and new pivot pins. He also has rebuilt distributors.
While the distributor is apart, seperate and clean the breaker plate halves and bearing.
Be careful of the vacuum advance. The mount and the pin on the breaker plate are fragile.
I ran a new ground wire, from the condenser screw, through the distributor body, to a screw on the outside. It's more flexible, and in the way less than stock.
Borg/Warner A95 points, and G136 condenser work well; and are available from "NAPA".
Mike M.

timhere1
06-09-2005, 01:55 PM
The springs are different, and on the plate to the cam you describe it looks like someone has filed inside the opening (hole in the plate). It does not look like normal mechanical wear. What am I working on and what do you suggest as the logical approach to repair? I looked for a link to Dave, as I know of his work, but could not find one. I have his # in Turning Wheels. Thanks. The dist. is in an R2.

Mike
06-09-2005, 02:55 PM
How are the shaft bushings? I'd compare the cost of repairing the distributor myself, to buying a rebuilt one, ($125 from Dave).
Springs that are a very good match for the R2 are Mr. Gasket kit #925B, $5 from Jegs or Summit. They also have a shim kit, to adjust end play in the dist shaft, that might work. It's for 1/2" shafts. Since the drive gear is spiral cut, timing changes with up and down movement. Set play to minimum spec.
You can observe total mechanical advance, running the engine, with a timing light; and limiting it to what the manual specifies by putting a sleeve over the limit pin, or drilling the hole out.
Vacuum needed to fully advance can be checked with a vacuum pistol. It's adjusted with washers under the spring, inside the can.
Mike M.

timhere1
06-09-2005, 06:13 PM
Thanks for your input, Mike. Upon closer examination of the shop manual, I do have the correct dist. part number. The filed out portions of the cam shaft plate holes disturb me, though. I think I can fix this one at lower costs than buying a rebuild. I would like to separate the breaker plates but can't find instructions on how to do it without damage. Any ideas. Thanks again.

Alan
06-09-2005, 09:58 PM
A few part # for you 1561624 shaft Autolite # IAZ-1053LS , Prestolite # 28-144.516196 weight Autolite # IGC-2168LS , Presto # 31-220, Chrysler bronze type weight Presto# 90-315, 1558285 spring set R1 Auto# IGB-376CS, Presto# P50-214, 1558286 spring set R2 NLA, 1561625 Lockring set Presto# P90-245, Primary lead Auto# IAT-81RM, Presto# P26-112, NAPA# LW-80.On the points Studebaker # 1560473.AMC# 3118870, Ampco AL5677XP, Chrysler#280870, Delco#A-106P/A-105 PV, Echlin# CS 720A/P ,Guaranteed Parts# AL-188AS, Holly 27-13, Kem TV-1, Mallory 135, Mapco PS-57AV, Niehoff# AL-11HV, P&D Bendix # XAU-19-30V, Powerready # 31-1, Prestolite# PI-42/V or AL-1021, Shurehit Borg W #A-96/V, Sorensen# AL-16-26MX, Tungsten Mfg. AL-2033X, Valley forge# C-66 or MC-91,Vulcan#Pm-860, Wells AL2-5M (V) the V is for vented.

Mike
06-10-2005, 04:48 AM
Just turn the two little clips that are riveted to the plate out of the way; and the two breaker plate halves come apart. There's a ball bearing in there that may not have been serviced since the early '60's! I drilled the two rivets out and replaced with standard pop rivets; while I was eliminating remnants of the original ground wire.
Mike M.

timhere1
06-12-2005, 07:57 PM
Thanks for your help, Mike and Alan. With the shop manual and your help, I should be able to get a solid unit out of what I have (with parts, of course).