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JDP
03-05-2007, 04:37 PM
I found out there are only two ways you can safely drive a C cab truck at 75 MPH. One: Everyone in front of you is driving cars and trucks built in the 50's or two, add better brakes. If a BMW in front of you decides to make a panic stop, the truck will only slow down once it makes scrap metal out out of a import. It never happened to me, but it was sure hinting at the possibility, so I bought and installed the big 12 inch Turners today, about a 3 hour, no hassle job.
http://stude.com/Turner.jpg

64 Commander 2 dr.
64 Daytona HT
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk (Black)
63 Avanti R1
63 Daytona convert
63 Lark 2 door
63 Lark 2 door #2
62 Daytona HT/ 4 speed
62 Lark 2 door
60 Lark HT
60 Hawk
59 3E truck
52 Starliner
51 Commander

Transtar60
03-05-2007, 04:41 PM
Looking good JP.
Now if I can just get some for an 8E12 Champ and a 5E13 Transtar.
I only drive them at 75 when I cant see any cars ahead on the Interstate.:D[8D]

http://racingstudebakers.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10056/5E13%20Pic%203.JPG
3E38
4E2
4E28
5E13
7E7
8E7
8E12
8E28
4E2
59 Lark
etc

Roscomacaw
03-05-2007, 08:05 PM
WUSSIES![}:)]

Miscreant adrift in
the BerStuda Triangle
http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/906179/2006/12/7/truckonhill3.jpg

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe

JDP
03-05-2007, 09:09 PM
I prefer being a live Wussie, to a dead purist.:) I did try to live with the stock brakes, I rebuilt every bit of them, but the drums are not designed for Baltimore/DC traffic and drivers. Cars out here run bumper to bumper at 75 MPH plus, no room for error.

64 Commander 2 dr.
64 Daytona HT
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk (Black)
63 Avanti R1
63 Daytona convert
63 Lark 2 door
63 Lark 2 door #2
62 Daytona HT/ 4 speed
62 Lark 2 door
60 Lark HT
60 Hawk
59 3E truck
52 Starliner
51 Commander

Transtar60
03-05-2007, 09:26 PM
JP, Mr. Biggs has one of the first sets of Jims disc brakes on Pete.
He's just messing with us.
:D

http://racingstudebakers.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10056/5E13%20Pic%203.JPG
3E38
4E2
4E28
5E13
7E7
8E7
8E12
8E28
4E2
59 Lark
etc

JDP
03-05-2007, 09:40 PM
I was just returning the favor and messing with him.

64 Commander 2 dr.
64 Daytona HT
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk (Black)
63 Avanti R1
63 Daytona convert
63 Lark 2 door
63 Lark 2 door #2
62 Daytona HT/ 4 speed
62 Lark 2 door
60 Lark HT
60 Hawk
59 3E truck
52 Starliner
51 Commander

52 Ragtop
03-05-2007, 10:16 PM
I was wondering if Mr. Biggs was gonna tell us all that! <G>

Jim

Roscomacaw
03-05-2007, 11:21 PM
LOL!!!!! Yeah, if you think your traffic encounters make you pucker up, try hauling another Stude on one HEAVY-azzed tralier with only the stock drum brakes![:0]:([8][V][xx(]
Stops were planned and started about a mile in advance. And I'm not kidding either![:o)] That's why Pete wears Jim's #2 set of truck disc brakes.;)

Miscreant adrift in
the BerStuda Triangle
http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/906179/2006/12/7/truckonhill3.jpg

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe

JDP
03-05-2007, 11:24 PM
Any idea why the brakes are so marginal compared to the similar sized car jobs ?

64 Commander 2 dr.
64 Daytona HT
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk (Black)
63 Avanti R1
63 Daytona convert
63 Lark 2 door
63 Lark 2 door #2
62 Daytona HT/ 4 speed
62 Lark 2 door
60 Lark HT
60 Hawk
59 3E truck
52 Starliner
51 Commander

Roscomacaw
03-05-2007, 11:49 PM
Yup, they stayed with the non-self-energizing setup that cars abandoned in '53.[xx(] Who knows why?

Then for '63 they basically borrowed the V8 car brakes for halftons (the self-energizing parts anyway) and used the same truck drums still. It was a marked improvement, but still not as good as the discs.;)
Like we do with later car brakes, if one can find an 8E5 or 8E7, the brakes off it are a good upgrade for earlier halftons. Trouble is, there AREN'T many 8E donors to borrow from.[V]

Miscreant adrift in
the BerStuda Triangle
http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/906179/2006/12/7/truckonhill3.jpg

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe

Stude4x4
03-06-2007, 12:25 AM
About seven years ago we hauled a forklift behind our '58 1/2 ton. Back then it had a tired 289 with a four speed and the crappy drum brakes. The trailer weighed 3k lbs and we found out later that the forklift weighed 7k lbs. No joke. Needless to say the stoplight turned red and there was no stoppin that truck. Fortunately no body go hurt. Since then we have upgraded to disc brakes and now its a 3/4 ton. We also learned to make sure your trailer has electric brakes(none of that surge crap) and you know the weight of your load.

Jake

-Home of John Studebaker-
http://community.webshots.com/user/Stude4x4
http://varozza4x4.com
http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t95/stude4x4/th_505911685npTTka_fs.jpghttp://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t95/stude4x4/th_FullSize.jpghttp://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t95/stude4x4/th_normal_scan.jpg

JDP
03-11-2007, 05:53 PM
Finally mounted and plumbed the rebuilt hydrovac under the can and got to try the new brakes. I was pleased to find the power brakes were not at all touchy, but boy does the truck stop now. :)

64 Commander 2 dr.
64 Daytona HT
63 Cruiser
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk (Black)
63 Avanti R1
63 Daytona convert
63 Lark 2 door
63 Lark 2 door #2
62 Daytona HT/ 4 speed
62 Lark 2 door
60 Lark HT
60 Hawk
59 3E truck
52 Starliner
51 Commander

Transtar60
03-11-2007, 07:04 PM
John did you stick with the stock one pot master cylinder?
Just wondering how else you would have used the stock hydrovac.
(Under the can??) ;)

http://racingstudebakers.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10056/5E13%20Pic%203.JPG
3E38
4E2
4E28
5E13
7E7
8E7
8E12
8E28
4E2
59 Lark
etc

64V-K7
03-11-2007, 07:46 PM
I've been studying that situation for some time and last November, decided on the following plan of action. My car is a 64 GT with a Turner dual MC and standard Stude FDB. I have a Hydrovac, plumbed onto the front brake lines.
I'm running the front lines from the MC to the hydrovac, then to a combo valve, then to the front disk brakes. The rear brake line exits the MC, then to the combo valve and then to the rear drums.
The combo valve allows the rear brakes to engage first, then once 10-15# of pressure builds, allows the front to grab. This prevents nosedive, etc. In a panic stop, it does some other voodoo to enable straightline stops.
My MC is from a 95 Eclipse... 1" bore with remote filler hoses. Fits the bracket perfectly and is low and slender, so I can forget about crawling under the floor, permanently. The combo valve does metering, line balancing and proportioning, all for one money. I'll be installing all this, once the floor of my garage exceeds 45 degrees, hopefully soon...


Bob Johnstone
http://www.studebaker-info.org/7168422/sig2.jpg

JDP
03-11-2007, 08:24 PM
I have the single MC, but if i go with the dual and Jim's rear disks, I may just do the front on the hydrovac.

64 Commander 2 dr.
64 Daytona HT
63 Cruiser
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk (Black)
63 Avanti R1
63 Daytona convert
63 Lark 2 door
63 Lark 2 door #2
62 Daytona HT/ 4 speed
62 Lark 2 door
60 Lark HT
60 Hawk
59 3E truck
52 Starliner
51 Commander

55studeman
03-12-2007, 03:03 PM
55 Prez -Bob

Your setup you describe is akin to what I have been dreaming up for my Stude. I was wondering about the combo valve, who makes it? Part Number? and from what parts place did you get it? If you know those things it'd be helpful to me and others who are interested in what sounds like a good setup.



E. West
"The Speedster Kid"
Sunny Northern California
Where the roads don't freeze over and the heat doesn't kill you.
And an open road is yours to have -only during non-commute rush hours 9am-4pm and 7pm to 7am (Ha, ha, ha)

64V-K7
03-12-2007, 04:22 PM
It's from Master Power brake, Part number VL3350. Set up for Disk/Drum, but can be changed to Disk Disk, if needed.

www.mpbrakes.com

What they don't tell you is that to make it work on the Stude lines, you'll need to neck down almost all the outlets, with adapters, to fit the line size. Not a big deal, but unexpected.


Bob Johnstone
http://www.studebaker-info.org/7168422/sig2.jpg

55studeman
03-13-2007, 12:46 AM
Bob,
Thanks for the part info.

I should have asked this above, but that combo valve doesn't defeat the safety purpose of the dual MC ,i.e. when you lose the front, the back is still good? I was just re-reading your first post and I wondered about plumbing the front and back from into the combo valve, whether that defeats the dual MC purpose.


E. West
"The Speedster Kid"
Sunny Northern California
Where the roads don't freeze over and the heat doesn't kill you.
And an open road is yours to have -only during non-commute rush hours 9am-4pm and 7pm to 7am (Ha, ha, ha)

64V-K7
03-13-2007, 06:29 AM
It maintains the dual MC function. They remain separate circuits. There's even an electrical tap on the valve to actuate a warning light, if one side drops pressure.

here's a scan of one of the pages...
http://www.studebaker-info.org/tech/Brakes/vl3350b.jpg


Bob Johnstone
http://www.studebaker-info.org/7168422/sig2.jpg