Radiator

[Rekabeduts]

My radiator was re-built with a new 3 row core, and the rad frame and tank re-conditioned and re-painted about 2.5 years go. It has run cool with no problems until recently I notice at least one very small leak along the front of the rad tank, where it appears the top of the tank is soldered (?) to the frame. It is not spraying, but I see a small drip forming after driving the car. It stops of course when the pressure cools. I checked with the shop that did it (they sublet it) and of course there's no warranty now...they said it's up to the rad shop as to what they'll want to do...but they indicated they would probably want re-do the whole thing (for $$$ of course)[xx(]. It cost about $450.00 for the re-build in 2002, not counting the labor for the shop that pulled it. It seems to me they could just remove the tank, keep the new core with only 3,000 miles on it...and re-weld/solder the tank.

Any recommendations[?] I'm putting BARR stop leak in it in the meantime. Thanks!

[Alan]

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO on the Barrs leak

[studeclunker]

1.) Quit with the Bars.[:0] It will plug everything else as well![B)]

2.) Go to another shop. This guy has no ethics.[V]

3.) get some anti-freeze and mix with water. Keep this in your trunk, etc. Keep the cap loose. Or pull the radiator and drive your other car.

4.) Find another shop that will thouroughly go over the radiator and find what else the previous shop messed up. A reputable shop will do this fairly reasonably.

5.) Get a spare radiator.[^] That's why I currently have so many (9) cars... Spare parts. I'm not recommending that you have a rediculous number of cars Like I do, just that spare parts are necessary. Radiator, fuel pump, water pump, Alt.-Genny, etc...

Ain't old cars fun?

Lotsa Larks!
Studeclunker
A.K.A: out2lunch

[Roscomacaw]

Heh - I'd take it to another shop and tell them the story. They'll probably only charge you to fix the minor leak (likely just a dab of solder!).
Your notion that they could possibly work with the "old" new core is correct - they just wanna screw you over for more money. If they're that underhanded, chances are they'd CHARGE you like they used a new core and actualy USE the one you just had put in.

Another thing, I see Sonny and others screaming against Bar's Leak. I've used that stuff for years without a problem. Fact is - having worked for a factory authorized dealer/service center for Aston Martins in the 70s - a can of Bar's leak was standard proceedure even in BRAND NEW Astons! And my boss was not one to try and make work for himself.

Miscreant at large.

[Alan]

If he would have brought the raidator to me before the Barrs I would have charged him $10 to fix it. Once that stuff with the ceramic trash has gone through the hole to plug it the solder will not flow it will just keep blowing out and leave a hole. Now he has to have the tanks and straps removed and the raidator tanked your looking at a $50- $125 job now.Also the ceramic is a insulator and doesn't transfer heat as effectivly, so now not only the raidator has the trash in it but the engine too.

[studeclunker]

Well, if the fellow has to get the tanks redone, they can boil out the core as well.[:I] REPUTABLE shops are hard to come by. REKABEDUTS are you in California? Who is the shop? If we all know who it is word can be spread to stay away. Word of mouth is the best revenge to a disreputable business.

Lotsa Larks!
Studeclunker
A.K.A: out2lunch

[Roscomacaw]

I guess I should "qualify" my remarks here.[8D] While I stand behind the effectiveness of Bar's Leak (from my own experiences), ANY stop leak is a stop-GAP repair in my opinion.[B)] A "band-aid fix" if you will.[xx(]
I haven't used ANY brand of stop-leak in years. If I've got an obvious leak, I fix it proper - not with some magic potion you pour in and forget.
While I might try such in a pinch - like on a road trip - I would be awfully wary of the fix even if it visually stopped the leakage.[}]

Miscreant at large.

[sdc_rocketeer]

I'm having trouble with my radiator on my 1952 Champion. I was thinking about having it rebuilt at the radiator shop but now I am thinking that my best course is for me to buy a new one. Does anyone know where I can buy a radiator for a Stude?

thanks,

[studeclunker]

Taking one's radiator to a reputable shop should not be a problem.[V] In fact, most rebuilt radiators are better than the original. More rows of cooling power etc... Just make sure the individual is decently honest. In our current 'all about me' culture one has to be careful. Just make sure that all the shops in the area are checked out. Don't forget to talk to your mechanic. The local stude club is a good source too. Possibly the best source.

Lotsa Larks!
Studeclunker
A.K.A: out2lunch

[dpson]

I agree, try stopping by a local truck repair shop and ask about a good old time radiator repair shop in your area or find out where the car dealers send their radiators for repair. There is likely a good one in your area. The best one around here has been in business since the 1930's and they are very reasonable and honest. That's why they are still in business after all these years. I took the radiator for my 1924 Studebaker there and they fixed a leak and repainted it for $20, no kidding!

1960 Lark Convertible
1962 GT Hawk

[Roscomacaw]

rocketeer - NOS radiators (even NORS) dried up (pardon the pun[}]) years ago. The only way you're gonna get a "new" one is to have one of the cusstom radiator shops build you one. Since there's a fair number of hot rodded Studes out there, I think you could find a maker that would already have the dimensions - save for maybe the outlets. Figure on somewheres around $600 tho![:0]
Cheaper to have your's rebuilt. Just don't run too high a pressure cap on it, lest it's upper tank "balloon" on you.[}]

Miscreant at large.

[Alan]

You never said what year your car was in case any of us might happen to have one laying around. The other thing is where you are close to. I have a friend that has a raidator shop that has been in business for 37 years here in L.A. he was getting ready to sell his business and retire, but the city told him that he is less than 1,000 yards from a school even though it was just built and won't have any students till Sept. They said he could not sell his business because of the lead over the years contaminating the ground and sewer system and if he sold the property, before he could transfer title of the property he had to demolish the building and remove and process the top soil down to 3 feet, if when inspected if lead was found he would have to remove up to 7 feet then it would be a land fill and no one could build for 20 years. It is going to cost 350,000 to process the soil and demolish the building.