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gotti210
05-16-2005, 11:44 PM
okay guys ive just converted my 50 champ to 12 volts
i used a chrome one wire alt that i hooked to the battery side of the starter solenoid i unhooked the two wires that go from the stock generator to the stock voltage regulator
and i put a ballast resistor between the solenoid and the coil

everything seems to work fine with the exception of the guages (that didnt work to begin with) and the brakelights
i dont plan on running stock guages or heater/defroster anyways so not to big a problem there

now ive got two wires left hooked on my voltage regulator
one goes to the back of the amp meter
the other i dont know (forgot to trace it while i was in Garage)
both of these i believe are hooked to the bat terminal of the voltage reg (i may be wrong)

where should i hook these two wires and did i miss anything i needed to do to make the conversion complete

but mostly why arent my brake lights working could one of these two wires be the prob (they worked up until i did the conversion as you probabely read in one my other post)

mostly i need answers for the two wires and the possability of conversion causing brakelight failure

Sonny
05-17-2005, 02:08 PM
quote:Originally posted by gotti210

okay guys ive just converted my 50 champ to 12 volts
i used a chrome one wire alt that i hooked to the battery side of the starter solenoid i unhooked the two wires that go from the stock generator to the stock voltage regulator
and i put a ballast resistor between the solenoid and the coil

everything seems to work fine with the exception of the guages (that didnt work to begin with) and the brakelights
i dont plan on running stock guages or heater/defroster anyways so not to big a problem there

now ive got two wires left hooked on my voltage regulator
one goes to the back of the amp meter
the other i dont know (forgot to trace it while i was in Garage)
both of these i believe are hooked to the bat terminal of the voltage reg (i may be wrong)

where should i hook these two wires and did i miss anything i needed to do to make the conversion complete

but mostly why arent my brake lights working could one of these two wires be the prob (they worked up until i did the conversion as you probabely read in one my other post)

mostly i need answers for the two wires and the possability of conversion causing brakelight failure


I'm surprised that somebody hasn't jumped on this one already gotti. I've never used the one wire alternator, never really needed one, or I'd give you a hand with this.

BUT, you might wanna go here, http://mightymo.org/Proj_OneWire.html as it seems that they have it down pretty good, (and it looks pretty close to what the Stude has).

Lemme know how it goes......

Sonny
http://RacingStudebakers.com

gotti210
05-18-2005, 11:55 PM
i really am surprise no one else has jump on this seems like there enough stud people on this site that know the stuff
nah no help there
ive already checked that link out and thats how all this bs is run except for these two wires i just need to find a proper place to hook them up and get the proper results

JDP
05-19-2005, 12:46 AM
Can't speak for everyone else, but I can only tell you where they went before you added the alternator which will do you no good. The 3 wires on the regulator were: Battery, field and armature (to the old generator)
Lots of Studebaker experts on here, not so many one wire alternator guys.

Studebaker On The Net http://stude.com
64 R2 4 speed Challenger (Plain Wrapper)
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
55 Speedster
50 2R 10 truck

Sonny
05-19-2005, 01:22 AM
quote:Originally posted by gotti210

i really am surprise no one else has jump on this seems like there enough stud people on this site that know the stuff
nah no help there
ive already checked that link out and thats how all this bs is run except for these two wires i just need to find a proper place to hook them up and get the proper results


Ok... Well lemme look around and see what I can find.

Sonny
http://RacingStudebakers.com

Sonny
05-19-2005, 02:09 AM
quote:Originally posted by gotti210

i really am surprise no one else has jump on this seems like there enough stud people on this site that know the stuff
nah no help there
ive already checked that link out and thats how all this bs is run except for these two wires i just need to find a proper place to hook them up and get the proper results


Ok, let's figure this out. You have a one-wire alternator with an internal regulator, right? If you do, it looks like you want to wire it up the same way the "Prefered Wiring Method" is pictured in the schematic here, http://mightymo.org/Proj_OneWire.html, then just get rid of any extra wires. It looks pretty straight forward to me.

If you're using an external regulator, we'll work on "Plan B". [:p]

As for the brake lights, did you check the wiring or take the switch out and clean it out with something like "Brake Kleen", or replace it?

Sonny
http://RacingStudebakers.com

gotti210
05-20-2005, 04:26 PM
no sonny i did not try these two options but i think i might as well give it a try considering that im just treading water here siitin on my lazy butt waiting for an answer instead of trying to physically trying to get an answer.

i just found it kinda weird that within a matter of hours i no longer had brake lights and this happened during the 6 to 12 volt conversion.

as for the diagram i have everything wired correctly, with the aception of these two wires that i have not found a place for and that are not listed in the diagram. lemmee double check my work as well as check on were these two wires go in the car (what they supply)
lemmee run a test light on the switch (make sure ive got power)
and clean the switch and i guess last resort change the switch

whats the proper name of this switch
cause when i go to the flaps and ask for something for a 50 stud they look at me like im speaking in tongues or someother weird forgotten language

gotti210
05-21-2005, 12:49 AM
hey sonny you wouldnt believe what the problem was
ill email you all about it

hey everyone else thanks for the help

Sonny
05-21-2005, 12:50 AM
quote:Originally posted by gotti210

no sonny i did not try these two options but i think i might as well give it a try considering that im just treading water here siitin on my lazy butt waiting for an answer instead of trying to physically trying to get an answer.

i just found it kinda weird that within a matter of hours i no longer had brake lights and this happened during the 6 to 12 volt conversion.

as for the diagram i have everything wired correctly, with the aception of these two wires that i have not found a place for and that are not listed in the diagram. lemmee double check my work as well as check on were these two wires go in the car (what they supply)
lemmee run a test light on the switch (make sure ive got power)
and clean the switch and i guess last resort change the switch

whats the proper name of this switch
cause when i go to the flaps and ask for something for a 50 stud they look at me like im speaking in tongues or someother weird forgotten language


Great! Sounds like you're on the right track now. If those wires don't go anywhere, plus you've checked, and are sure, that the system is supplying 13.5 volts to the battery when the car is running, then I'd remove the wires totally and forget them.

The switch you're looking for is called the brake light switch, pressure type, and a LOT of the FlAPS have them because they're used on a LOT of different brands of older cars and trucks. In fact, there's a good chance that they have a listing for your car! If not, tell them it's for a '63 Studebaker, same switch.

The switch, on your car, is screwed into the end of the master cylinder or into a fitting somewhere around it. Take a look at it first, before you go to the flaps. Your switch is round, should have a single, fine thread, screw-in shank, with two, simple, push-on, post type connectors. The connectors may be the problem too, clean them REAL good, apply a dab of dielectric grease to the end of each post on the switch before you push the connectors back on.

It IS kind of strange that the brake lites quit after you changed over to 12 volt, but I'd suspect that you probably disturbed a weak wire or connection. It's ALWAYS possible for the, (very effective but kind'a cheesy), brake lite switch to quit, (you'll see what I mean when you get it out).

Oh, if/when you take that switch out, if it's out long enough, or if you press the brake pedal by accident, you'll have to bleed the master cylinder, (which can be done, IF you do it carefully, so that the wheel cylinders don't have to be bled too).

What I'd do is just buy the new 5 buck switch, clean REAL good around the old switch, take the old switch out, immediately put the new switch in, then start from there.

Sonny
http://RacingStudebakers.com