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View Full Version : rearend ratio comparison -- How slow?



studeclunker
05-09-2005, 01:44 AM
I have switched the V8 and tranny out of my '63 Daytona wagon[8D] (rearend 43-13 3.31) to my '62 4dr sedan[:I] (41-11 3.73). The sedan had a six that was seized up. How slow am I looking at the sedan going? Am I going to be able to keep up with traffic? All the same, my commute to work rarely exceeds 55mph.;) Most of the way is mountain roads. Sometimes I do have to go on the freeway. And, Mr. Biggs, you know how California freeways can be...[}:)][:0] Both vehicles had automatics.

Lotsa Larks!
Studeclunker
A.K.A: out2lunch

Sonny
05-09-2005, 09:50 AM
I think that you'll be much happier if you put the 3.31 in the '62. The 3.73 is great if you have a 3 speed stick w/OD, but for all around driving, that 3.31 will get you better fuel mileage and a decent pull on the hills, plus it won't work the engine unnecessarily with the automatic.

Sonny
http://RacingStudebakers.com

studeclunker
05-09-2005, 11:19 AM
Okayyyyy...[8)] So if the 3.73 is good with manual OD... then since the witch needs a rearend I might switch it into her. The problem is that I wanted to be done with this today if possible.[B)] Nevertheless as things stand now, Will she keep up with traffic?[?]

Lotsa Larks!
Studeclunker
A.K.A: out2lunch

studeclunker
05-09-2005, 12:10 PM
One more thing... If I do swap out the rear ends, can I just pull off the brake assemblies and take the rear end out? Do I have to go through the hassle of bleeding brakes?[xx(]

Lotsa Larks!
Studeclunker
A.K.A: out2lunch

Roscomacaw
05-09-2005, 01:21 PM
Oh, you'll be able to keep up with traffic alright. The engine might be turning a bit faster than you like but this was a stock arrangement that Studebaker sold (V8 & 3.73) Actualy - it won't be turning any faster than the original 6cylinder was!
My caution to you is that that rear in the '62 is quite likely a Dana type 23 and that equates to being easily torn up by the torque of a V8 if you are tough on the gas pedal as a rule.[}:)]
Not suggesting that the rear end's gonna thrash itself in short order - just that you need to be mindful about romping on that V8 from a standstill much![:0] OF course, if the rear axle is the type 27 or 44, there's way less chance you're gonna reduce it to splinters anytime soon.;)
The 3.73 ratio is probably better suited to mountainous terrain but the 3.31 can handle it too.
Just be damned sure you keep the axle housing end shims intact with the axle they came with. This will alleviate you having to set up axle end clearances again.[xx(]
As to the brakes, since they have solid lines to them, at least ONE of the connections is gonna hafta be broke open. But really, after having swapped rear axles, bleeding the two rear wheel cylinders is a small thing.[^]

Miscreant at large.

65cruiser
05-09-2005, 02:53 PM
My 65 Cruiser has a 194 Mckinnon six and a 3.73 Dana 27 and has no problems keeping up on the freeway. Tops out around 80-85 or so. It'll cruise all day at 65-70 (just did that coming back from South Bend).

________________________
Mark Anderson
http://home.alltel.net/anderm
1965 Studebaker Cruiser

studeclunker
05-09-2005, 05:51 PM
Thanks for the info.:D I think I will exchange the rears in the near future. Problem is that the other car has an 8 in it as well.[:I] Where do I find the 'type' ID.?

Lotsa Larks!
Studeclunker
A.K.A: out2lunch

Sonny
05-10-2005, 12:12 AM
quote:Originally posted by Mr.Biggs

<SNIPPER>
My caution to you is that that rear in the '62 is quite likely a Dana type 23 and that equates to being easily torn up by the torque of a V8 if you are tough on the gas pedal as a rule.[}:)]
<SNIPPER>
Just be damned sure you keep the axle housing end shims intact with the axle they came with. This will alleviate you having to set up axle end clearances again.[xx(]
As to the brakes, since they have solid lines to them, at least ONE of the connections is gonna hafta be broke open. But really, after having swapped rear axles, bleeding the two rear wheel cylinders is a small thing.[^]

Miscreant at large.


Hmmm... I dunno Bob, I'm thinkin' that wagon had at least a model 27, not much better than the 23 but should be OK for a daily driver.

Also studeclunker, I'd change the whole rear end, everything in tact, hub to hub. Disconnect, (do not cut or otherwise damage), those expensive emergency brake cables from the cable in front and the mounts on the frame, disconnect the flexible brake lines going to each of the rear ends, unbolt the bottom shock mounts off the rear ends, drop the drive shafts, and don't even screw around, just take the torch and buzz all the u-bolts off, (ALWAYS put new u-bolts in), and the rear ends will drop right out for ya.

In any event, unless you know for sure that everything in the '62 rear end is good, (brake wise), I'd pull the hubs off of it and check them out thoroughly. If you get one of those fancy, hand vacuum pumps with the brake bleeding cup option, brake bleeding is a breeze for one fella. Also, this would be the perfect time to squeeze a little grease into the rear wheel bearings, (which means that you would have to remove the backer plates for the brakes).

Now, to find the type, looking directly at the rear end, from the rear of the car, where the right hand axle tube connects to the center section, and JUST ABOVE THE LOWER RIGHT HAND EDGE ON THE CENTER SECTION, dig out/wire brush and you will find the numbers 23, 27 or 44 CAST into the center housing. Also, if the rear end was a limited slip, (TT) it should have tags that indicate that on the bolts that secure the rear cover to the rear end.


Sonny
http://RacingStudebakers.com

Roscomacaw
05-10-2005, 07:59 AM
Sonny, he says he's got a 62 SEDAN - not wagon.:D Also, if he's gonna retain the V8 rear brakes in the axle swap, wouldn't it make sense to swap the bigger front brakes too?
Clunker, as Sonny says, there's the number 23 - 27 - or 44 cast into the axle housing in a couple of places. There's a "web" (or "gusset", I call it)that flares from the main body of the case to the top of either axle tube. One of those two webs (I can't remember if it's left or right) is the first place I look.
Also, that 6 you say is "siezed up". What do you know about the condition of the head? Cosmo's looking for another head for his 6 in another topic thread here.[:I]

Miscreant at large.

Sonny
05-10-2005, 09:31 AM
quote:Originally posted by Mr.Biggs

Sonny, he says he's got a 62 SEDAN - not wagon.:D Also, if he's gonna retain the V8 rear brakes in the axle swap, wouldn't it make sense to swap the bigger front brakes too?
<SNIPPER>
Miscreant at large.


<LMAO> We're getting bollixed up here, but I see where. Yep, I KNOW he has a 62 sedan, but I was already thinkin' "swap 'em"! You were telling him that the sedan might have a "soft" rear end for the V8 he put in the sedan, assuming that he might be keeping the 3.73, (but I'm still gonna bet that the sedan has a 27 too. [}:)])

In any event, I'm thinkin' that unless he's using it in all mountains and/or wants to pull stumps with it, if he has the 3.31 and the time to install it, he'd be a lot happier on the road. I've spent a lot of time on the CA freeways, (hell, the back roads are just as bad), and the Fliteomatic with a 3.31 would be better all around. The only thing is, I wouldn't mess with changing the ring and pinion when it's soooo easy just to swap entire units and get the V8 brakes in the bargain.

Absolutely, I would put the V8 brakes on the front too. That was gonna be his next question, right studeclunker? :D

Sonny
http://RacingStudebakers.com

Sonny
05-10-2005, 09:34 AM
quote:Originally posted by 65cruiser

My 65 Cruiser has a 194 Mckinnon six and a 3.73 Dana 27 and has no problems keeping up on the freeway. Tops out around 80-85 or so. It'll cruise all day at 65-70 (just did that coming back from South Bend).

________________________
Mark Anderson
http://home.alltel.net/anderm
1965 Studebaker Cruiser


You didn't mention what transmission you had Mark. No doubt that a fella can run 'em at redline, and they've been known to stand up to that for quite a while. The V8 with the Fliteomatic is tough and could handle the high rpm for a while, but no doubt, it wears an engine out faster. I'm thinking that if you have a choice, as much as possible, try to build it to do the job and have longevity.

Sonny
http://RacingStudebakers.com

studeclunker
05-10-2005, 07:14 PM
I wasn't even going to ask about the brakes. Mr Biggs has already told me it would be best to replace them. As for type of driving, I drive mostly mountains. My concern was going to see my daughter, club meets, etc...[:I]

Pull stumps? You think so? Hmmmmm....[}:)]

Lotsa Larks!
Studeclunker
A.K.A: out2lunch

studeclunker
05-10-2005, 07:16 PM
Oh yes I forgot.[:I] I have no idea about the head. I would'nt know how to check.

Lotsa Larks!
Studeclunker
A.K.A: out2lunch

Sonny
05-10-2005, 11:01 PM
quote:Originally posted by studeclunker

I wasn't even going to ask about the brakes. Mr Biggs has already told me it would be best to replace them. As for type of driving, I drive mostly mountains. My concern was going to see my daughter, club meets, etc...[:I]

Pull stumps? You think so? Hmmmmm....[}:)]

Lotsa Larks!
Studeclunker
A.K.A: out2lunch


If you're gonna be in the mountains for the most part, then I'd say that you're pretty well set, (except for those front brakes). ;)

Sonny
http://RacingStudebakers.com