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Studenut65
05-03-2005, 07:25 AM
Hello All,
I have a 1965 Studebaker Commander. The ignition switch, while driving for extended periods of time, tends to get hot on the back side where my accessories,etc are connected. I have added to the car an original radio and clock and put them on the acc part of the switch. They both have in-line fuses and have not blown a fuse. Is it normal for these switches to get hot after awhile or is there a problem with my wiring? Also, where is the fuse for the cigarette lighter? My lighter doesnt work and it would be nice to plug in the cell phone.

Roscomacaw
05-03-2005, 11:49 AM
I'D say..... if it's truly "hot", change it. It might be that the contacts inside are getting tired. And when they get tired, they start to get hot because they're having a hard time passing the required current as efficiently as when they were new.:( Hey - it IS 40 years old now[V]
ALSO..... since you brought it up.....[}:)] The switches in the '63 thru'66 Stude sedans have a propensity to come loose and short out to the structure just behind the switch.[:0] As you might imagine, this can have DIRE results of various degrees, concieveably right up through the whole car getting fried![xx(]
This happens because the little "ears" of the bezel that retains the ign sw., get tired and finally break. This results in the switch dropping forward and it's terminals shorting to the dash structure! NOT cool!:(
It's really GOOD & CHEAP insurance to insulate that structure behind the switch and maybe at least CHECK the health of the switch bezel to see if it's ear's are bent. New ones are available, if needed.

Diagram shows the lighter having an in-line fuse and power coming off the Bat. terminal of the ignition switch.

Miscreant at large.

N8N
05-03-2005, 12:32 PM
I believe that the "fuse" in the diagram is actually that little tiny button thing on the back of the lighter socket; it's a thermal fuse, and I haven't found one yet that passes enough current to charge a cell phone, run a radar detector, etc - they *all* seem to have blown over the years. I just remove the thermal fuse (it unscrews) and install the wire directly to the back of the lighter socket; then install an inline fuse in the wire going to the ignition switch.

Which reminds me... that's one of two electrical accessories on my '55 that I don't have properly operational yet :) (the other is the under-dash courtesy light, which I don't have.)

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

Studenut65
05-03-2005, 03:06 PM
Thanks guys,
Is there any way to get an ignition switch that will allow me to use my original keys? I will tear the lighter out of the dash this summer and look it over. I am making a list of "things to do" to my Stude this summer while on break from school. Thanks guys. Take care.

Nate

N8N
05-03-2005, 03:33 PM
If your lock plug is in good shape you can just swap the electrical portion of the ignition switch. I know that SI is selling new ignition switch assemblies, not sure if they sell just the electrical portion or not but it would be worth a call. Once you get the part just remove your existing ignition switch - the whole thing - and don't forget to disconnect the battery first! then when you have it on the workbench insert the key, turn the key to "run" (I think) and push in the little brass button that holds the lock plug in. Then you can pull the lock plug out of the assembly and insert it into your new switch. After that, as they say, assembly is the reverse...

good luck,

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

Studenut65
05-03-2005, 07:10 PM
Thanks N8N. Ill give SI a call. We will be ordering parts from them soon anyhow. Take care.

Nate

studeclunker
05-08-2005, 04:12 AM
Nate,
When you install that switch, put a bit of innertube or rubber of some kind on the dashframe behind it. You can use zip straps to keep it in place(the rubber). I also wrap my starter switches in electricians tape. Overkill I know, but a dash fire on the freeway is really annoying.;)
As for the key cylinder, yes it can be very easily changed out. An ice pick or very small phillips screwdriver will suffice to depress the lock release (the little brass button). Stude. Int. has the bezel you need as well. It would be wise to just replace the old one. Inexpensive as well.:D

Your clock should be on the hot wire(along with the lighter). Otherwise you will be constantly resetting it. As for the lighter, mine all still work (luck I guess[:I]). Check the connector at the back. I have several that I had to compress (gently) with pliers so that they contacted sufficently. I charge my phone all the time. In fact when I get off work the phone gets plugged in and I leave it there. It takes about 2 1/2 to 3 hours to charge from dead.;)

Bummer!! I just remembered. My phone is still in the witch!

Lotsa Larks!
Studeclunker
A.K.A: out2lunch